Has anyone tried using one of these esc's from ebay before?

I know @dickyho sells this esc on eBay. The reason I know this is because I am using one in my dual mountainboard and one in my sons dual mountainboard. Maybe he can get us the firmware.

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It would be nice to see the modified firmwareā€¦ Sorry for a bad rewiev, I was kinda angryā€¦ The current design is bad because there are 2 pcbs connected with pin connectors. The new design (currently available only for humbotors) is better because itā€™s all on a single pcb

You must be talking about something else, this topic, as you can see from pictures when you scroll back or start from beginning, is about single board with no pin connecting pcbā€™s. Like the one I also bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152989212995 Before buying I browsed options and did see the old two board things too but these single board things are widely available everywhere. Why you think they only work for hub motors? You can see belt motors being used right in this thread too.

That is the older model and only for hub motors. The belt drive motor pcb is dual layer

I just got the new banggood version (updated). How to I bind the esc to my old remote? This is the new board: https://www.banggood.com/it/Electric-Skateboard-Longboard-Controller-With-Remote-Dual-Motors-ESC-Substitute-p-1202299.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

I want to bind it with the remote of the older board. 18

Thanks for the help in advance :slight_smile:

image

@MarcoMota1

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Thanks! Anyways just to let you all know. I used the old esc for almost a year. it broke two weeks ago. I think the vibrations made the pin of the mosfet to brake. I know it was an easy fix but I wanted to try the new one so this was the prefect excuse to change esc. 38

My remote, the v2 started discharging very fast. Before I would charge it myb once or twice a month but now I need to charge it every 3rd day or something like thatā€¦ It could be because of the cold weather.

lipo inside it might be bad, its easy to replace with anyother small lipo that will fit inside , capacity doesnt matter as it uses very less current. stil 500-800mah 1s lipo would be fine

something like this

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Yeah Iā€™ll measure itā€™s capacity. If itā€™s less then it should be Iā€™ll order a new one. Thanks for a link.

I had the previous version. This update was very good!

Link

There have been improvements in the quality of the construction and also in the performance. The final speed is still 20km / h, but I think itā€™s because Iā€™m using 6s batteries.

The initial acceleration is VERY STRONG! Much stronger than in the old model. Now the remote control is more ergonomic and has 4 speeds.

Iā€™m using engines on the wheels (hub motors).

Other improvements are: protective case, antenna, battery meter, automatic turn on the wheels and power button with led.

Ps .: By default the bridges are weldless, that is, configured for 10s. See the third photo of how the bridge was used to use 6s.

To bind with the controller just press the power skate button for a few seconds. Once the flashing starts flashing, turn on the remote control and with a very fine one-click key on the inner button inside a hole. Then the power button will stop blinking.

IMG_20190105_171830 IMG_20190105_171843 IMG_20190105_171812 IMG_20190105_171746 IMG_20190105_171824 IMG_20190105_171805

I purchased that too and stepped up to 10S. Now i have a max speed of arround 35km/h with hub motors. Maybe when its fully charged it reaches 38/40Km/h in flat land.

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Great to know that! Despite wanting to go 35kmh, the current 20kmh is enough!

Are you using Hall Sensor cables? If so, any improvement?

Sorry for the late reply, I tried using the hall sensor cables when I had the 6S configuration and barely noticed any difference. It braked better thats for sure (it knew were the motors where). Then I changed it back to no hall sensors cables connected but I cant remember why. Now I am using it with the hall sensor cables disconnected I think its better since I have less cables connected so less risk of a cable disconnecting and making the board behave unpredictably.

Does the 1350 max watt mean that the esc can only handle a motor rated 1350w or less? Or does it mean the esc can only put out 1350w even if you use letā€™s say 2000w rated motor? Cause I got keda 6364 2000 w motor on sale for 25$ on black Friday and I just ordered the esc substitute thinking the esc wonā€™t put out more than max Watts and therefore Iā€™m safe with 9s battery 2000w motor and 10s esc substitute.

Donā€™t think heā€™ll reply Bud, he hasnā€™t logged on since August 2017

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I guess not Iā€™m new so canā€™t post for 30mins I think. Probably just gonna make a post about this later. But I really like this discussion as got good info on the esc substitute not to mention the suggested dicky ho from whom I ordered the esc. So excited about using this esc. It will be my first build just donā€™t wanna burn it and waste 90 $ cad

The budget esc are good at one thing. They are cheap. I wouldnā€™t expect longevity. Iā€™ve had one in my Riptide for about a year. Still going good.
But itā€™s an underwhelming board. I also know people who had them last just a few months. Soooo you get what you pay for.

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I think meepo and a few other boards use them. But they run them on 500w motors maybe thatā€™s why they last longer. Oh well if it burns Iā€™ll have to get a newer fefc or whatever the new vesc from flipsky are called.

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