haven’t seen a thread on these https://www.amazon.com/MONOLIT-Electrical-Connectors-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01LK2YJQC/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522888138&sr=1-2&keywords=heat+shrink+butt+connectors+12+awg
what you think?
really looking for some nice crimp connectors but this seemed second best.
Looks nice why not?
I wonder if the solder is weird being low temp melt or somehow not good for high current. id like them to be good.
Well, I think it’s not too practical because People like me will still need to solder x90 connectors so soldering a wire is not hard work.
I was just sitting here thinking what is the temp of the solder melt as that worries me for larger guage wire…but anything with little current probably great.
If used the gel crimp with heat shrinks without the solder before. You see it all the time for things like telephone and other 2 wire splices… but it’s really all communication stuff not so much power. So dunno about the solder ones
I’ve got a kit of that stuff. I think maybe great for things like extending hall sensor wires, where bulk matters. Not as robust feeling as I hoped though.
I think they’d be fine for decently high current as long as you do it like this
Crimping a copper sleeve over the wires will be better for bigger gauges.
I thought the white ones would be good for 22awg silicone but red fits better.
crimping a copper sleeve? what you mean? I’m all for crimp but don’t see it around
I’ve been using stuff like this for splicing big wires
Use the smallest size that fits the wires, crimp the shit out of it, give it a huge yank test, then heatshrink it – the kind with hot glue inside.
If it’s a butt joint there are crimp sleeves that have heat shrink with hot glue inside. Corrosion resistant. Boat guys use this stuff. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Heatshrink-Connector-TOOGOO-Electrical-Terminals/dp/B01DXF97KC
But I’d try to buy a domestic brand, tinned copper.
Those solder shrink tubes are horrid. I am made to use them at the workshop all the time to fix hall sensors and corner lights on older cars. The solder is very low temp and the heat shrink melts and burns by the time you get enough heat in the solder to properly tin both ends of the wires.
I like this combo. id like to crimp everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WPGQQQ?tag=vs-collectables-convert-amazon-20
would NOT use
why kjlkj;lj;lkj
Butt splices drastically increase resistance thereby decreasing voltage.
have you found any evidence? i dont ever see a comparison of resistance on joints
Might be useful in an emergency band aid patch.
IDK about Eskate in particular, but I think I might get some to keep in my on site tool bag.
I’ve never done it on an electric skateboard, but there is evidence of resistance increase on CAT5/CAT6 as well as audio cable causing a voltage decrease.
The increase in resistance causing a voltage decrease is proven by Ohm’s Law.
Current * resistance = voltage
[source]
An increase in resistance will produce an increase in centralized heat.
its hard to test for such low resistance but ive heard that a good compression connection is better than soldered. makes sense as solder isnt that conductive.
I’m not saying your wrong, but here’s my logic on why to NOT use butt splice connectors…
Current actually travels on the surface of the wire, not inside the wire, but on the surface of each strand of wire. A butt splice connects only the outer strands of the wire, whereas the flow of a correctly soldered joint makes the connection to each strand of wire.
i think the current only traveling on the surface would be the skin effect and that happens at very high frequencies, higher than we use.
I thought @mmaner was spot on, but it looks like we’re both off!
I learned something today! It’s a good day!
https://www.quora.com/Why-is-skin-effect-only-occurring-on-AC-not-on-DC
Regardless, I wouldn’t use solder splices unless it was an emergency.