Hi guys I just got a 12s4p battery pack from torqueboards. All good until the first ride when I came across a bumpy road and the system went off. After coming home (walking…) I´ve connected the pack to the charger and the pack went on again and started to charge. But when I unplugged the pack, it dies again. I have ask for instructions to TB to open the pack by myself (I´m from southamerica so sending the goods back would be a pain in the arss…) but the guys at TB take their time answering (it´s been almost two weeks since I´ve informed this situation). Something may be loose inside and I really don’t feel safe having this malfunction pack at home. Any of you guys have experience opening any pack form TB? My guess is something wrong with the on/off system. Cosider I’m very keen to remove the power button for an old style loop key. Any comments will be more than appreciated guys!
Sounds like something came loose be very careful that could cause a short and that can cause catastrophic battery failure. I would cut the heat shrink off and look for that wire and isolate it before it causes a problem. Do this outside so you don’t burn your house down if the worst happens. Please do this ASAP take pics and let us know.
Please PM me your email and I’ll take a look at your issue.
Thanks for a quick reply! I’ll do it tomorrow and keep you updated
I have a 12s2p i got from a kid that almost killed himself on his board he built for a school project…got it for 150 so I don’t mind killing it but…if I do…BUT I really don’t want too …and it was in accident be nice to check it …that battery is so big it won’t fit in nothing been debating to open it also …I was gonna throw a thread up to see if anyone has opened one up yet…there is a case built around it. I can see when I push on the pack …I want to separate the screen and button to custom mount in a eskate deck that @Jaraya92881 is gonna build for us to sample a lil sleek ripper for a close city congestion commuter
ive ripped open a TB pack before what are you wanting to know
I did it because I thought I knew what I was doing, and after a 300 dollar mistake ive learnt my lesson
edit this makes it sound like TB gave me a bad product. I meant to imply that im just a clueless idiot. Dexter has been nothing but helpful to me
I was just wondering if the pack can be separated to make it smaller …like i want to eliminate the screen and run my own or extend it out side on my board same with power switch and there is a bms in there also maybe a anit spark too instead of being a all in one like bestech …I’m just wondering if I can break that pack down as it really big for being a 12s2p 30q it’s alot bigger then my 25r 10s3 pack that’s routed in my deck …any help would be highly appreciated thanks
Not unless you have a spot welder and some skills… Whats yur.plan? Make it a 10s2p? Cuz that’s the only easy option (using that word lightly) otherwise you tear down the whole.pack… De burr all the cells (which some would frown upon vs starting with new cells again) and the rebuild in desired configuration.
No I don’t want to rebuild it or turn it into a smaller pack…I didn’t spent to much on it as it is used.I just got it really cheap to put in my other build for now see if it holds up and try 12s out …it’s for a routed deck already for a 10s3p slim pack with a bms on top.that is dead now …and this thing is massive…it’s like it’s built to just mount to a board it has it own case built around it…whats under that shrink wrap…I have the parts switches/gauges charging port and wires to swap if I have to I just cant use that battery as it’s double the size as I find out when I brought it home. which should be 6 cell smaller from my 10s3p pack…So im hoping to re route them onto my board as they won’t be any good inside my sealed enclosure and I don’t want to buy a whole new enclosure and most likely a deck to fit it all…it leaves me no room for my foc boxes anti spark nothin just battrey fits mean while I had a 10s3p in there with 2xfoc and antispark switch and receiver .I don’t know it seem to me this thing is the size of a 12s4p and maybe I was miss told. I live in Canada and its cold and wet more then anything and my stuff is fully sealed to protect my electronics…thanks for the help folks
under the shrink wrap is usually a bunch of kapton tape and then this yellow sort of plastic to make the pack more rigid, and under that its just the nickel, cells, more kapton tape and a spaghetti of bms wires
the most annoying part is getting all the tape off from around the yellow plastic
edit reading again what you want to do I wouldnt reccomend it unless youre very confident in your abilities. also dont let the two inward nickel strips touch, the noise of the spark scared me shitless
Lol I’m a license electrician…factory’s and high rise condos …no electronics specialist tho…i failed that part of school .lol…it was so boring…now that im into this esk8 stuff .im all into learning and wanting to learn how to build batterys as there is not a sole in canada…and very hard to find anyone that will ship with out losing a leg and a child in the process…but I’ve had some serious arc flashes have perma tan on one arm…and bomb like sparke’s in my face many times I’m not nervous with electricity at all…but I’m nervous with not knowing the battery’s as much as I want but I have to start somewhere…thank you for the help much appreciated…at least I have a grasp of what going on in there now I think anyways…is it doable to remove the the voltage screen,power switch and charging port to relocate into a sealed enclosure that is a major issue having that thing all one unit really sucks …unless you run there enclosure…Which is not even doable in my country…
So I´ve opened the pack and in my opinion I don´t find any disconnected wires by external look. I haven´t been very invasive yet, only pull some wires to check connection, but system still off.
Here´s some pics…
Would need to see up the middle part to see if theres any issues with spot welds…
Found this…guess red goes with red?
I assume so…it is the 12th balance wire which would end up on the main positive side anyways which makes sense…
Thanks for sharing the pics
Solved and flying again!
Solder wire and extra tape for additional fixation!
For those who find this pack big (it is big and heavy…) I have to believe that removing the plastic box that cover the batteries it’s and option to reduced volume.
BTW I would like to remove the power buttom and use a loop key:
- What would be the proper position in the system for the loop key? between battery pack and BMS or BMS and output cord?
- To remove power button function I only need to disconect the wiring that goes from power button to BMS? Any other modification?
Thanks for your comments!