I’d like to build an electric longboard for my college kid to move about campus. I’ve been reading lots of threads and found myself getting overwhelmed with data. I’m thinking that the best approach is to start a build thread, ask a few basic questions and then build/get advice on my parts list.
I’d like to build a board that will carry a 175 lb person 15 to 20 mph for a range of 10-15 miles. I’m struggling to find a calculator that will help me understand what size battery and motors I need to accomplish this. Note that my current plan is to build a two hub motor board to keep things simple.
Leon, thank you so much! Since I am trying to learn, how do you know that this is correct battery/motor combination/ Experience, or is there something I should be doing to ensure I’m not buying over-or underpowered parts?
Yep. This was my first board i made and tested range on my 10s3p battery with a similar motor style. It originally had a 10s5p battery and the range was more around 25miles. My 10s3p is 10-15 miles at 20mph.
You actually want to do the opposite of this if you’re not doing hub motors. My mountain board uses real motors on the back and takes a lot more power. So in reality, you want more power, not less. If you get a dv6 and a 12s4p p42a battery, you can run any hubs/belts with no fear of lack of power.
Deck - I’d like to use a dolphin nose or drop deck. Something like the DN42 from Skateshred, but I’m not sure that deck is appropriate for electric. Thoughts on a good beginner deck? Riding would be largely flat (FL) with the occasional small hill.
Trucks - In my reading, I think I read that 10mm trucks were ideal because I wouldn’t have to dremel the shafts to accept the hub motors. (Leon, I see that you linked wheels, trucks and motors that appear to be for offroad use; I’m building a street board. Not sure if that makes a difference.)
Wheels - open to suggestions but realize they must match the trucks.
Motors - 60kv as Leon recommends?
ESC - Go-FOC DV4, but open to other suggestions.
Battery - 10s3p
Enclosure - obviously needs to be large enough to fit the battery. I wouldn’t mind one that I can open and put the remote when not in use.
Remote - I’d like to use a small pistol grip one. (The one that looks like an old Wii controller, not the big RC car controller.)
Since this is my first build, I was looking to keep things simple. Why are hub motors a bad idea? What’s a better solution that also keeps things simple?
Additionally, let’s talk batteries for a sec. I’ve read enough about Li-Po batteries that I’m concerned about safety. I don’t want to have to store the board in a firesafe bag. Should I shift to Li-Ion? If so, what’s the downside to doing so?
A) can’t Customize the wheels to your liking (limitations)
B) feel a lot more vibrations from riding (that’s if you live in an area with no smooth roads)
Edit: C has been denounced. But it does depend on who you buy from.
There’s more, but i think these were generally why. Switching to wheel pulleys and a small 5055 motors (or single 6374 for cheaper option) is a better pick since you have more options.
Only downside is that it doesn’t look as sleek as hubs, but the customization beats it.
Yes. I use li-ion batteries. Lipos are not bad, but you do need to take great care of them. But many have changed from lipos to li-ion.
Depends on the builder. If its made cheap or not constructed to handle vibrations from riding, you’re basically on a ticking time bomb waiting to happen.
I meant like if the stator of the hubs broke. I was told you had to get a new one if mine ever broke (different hub and company I guess). I’m actually glad there are replacement for the hubs now. Thank goodness.
…excuse me while i check to see if mine are replacable.
i’m not aware of any broken hub motor stators. And if one were to break you usually can buy a single motor (just like with normal outrunners) to replace it.
