The ying li with 7s could go up any hill no problem. This hobbywing esc now won’t climb before it starts to cog. Even from a standstill if I go half throttle it starts to cog. I can grab the wheel with my hand (somewhat difficult) and it will cog or jitter.
I’ve tried swapping the wires on the hall sensor and also the main power wires with no luck. It works fine with little load once it gets going. Any ideas?
You need BOTH the three phases and Hall sensors correct to get proper operation. So there are 9 combinations that it could be providing your motor doesn’t differ from what the ESC expects.
The Ownboard ESC says:
ATTENTION:
(1) The ESC ONLY for Ownboard Hub Motor Boards including the W1S/Mini KT /C1S/W1AS
So maybe the calibration of this is an issue.
I would suggest you get a FSESC or some other VESC compatible ESC, as they are configurable so you can set them up for your motors.
Sadly i tried all the possible wire combinations with no luck. With the hall sensor unplugged it doesn’t spin at all under force, but with it connected it is a lot more difficult, however it still cogs under heavy load so it does work sorta.
It seems to be a calibration issue like you said. I’ll try my friends newer hub motor and ying li 10s esc maybe that will shed some light if its my motors or esc.
I would go vesc but cant justify the cost unless there is some place to get a cheap vesc for dual hub motors. Thanks
Ok I’ve tried a 90mm higher power hub motor including all the wire combos. It is even worse and cogs under high speeds. It seems like the hobbywing from ownboard really is only for ownboard hub motors… who would have thought…
It must just not be able to supply enough power at all, and there are so many variations of the hobbywing esc. It gets a little warm without any load. Even the ying li esc stays cool.
Even Flipsky have had a price hike recently, as everyone’s components are costing too much or stock is limited. So a cheap ESC is a hard thing to find right now.