Honey Driver | Honey Velocity v3 deck | Caliber II's | 83mm Evolve GT wheels | Dual OM5065 200kv | Space Cell Pro4 | DIY pulleys/Enertion pulley | Bones Super Reds | Enertion mounts | Winning remote | Chaka VESCs - **BUILD COMPLETE!**

Here’s a video of my ride home at about 70-60% battery. I was going against some pretty strong head wind and didn’t full throttle too much since it’s a biking trail and both my hands are full. Sorry for the shakiness, hard to keep it stable.

EDIT: did some maths. My board’s top speed (weighted) is 31.6 mph at full charge which drops down to 27mph at nominal voltage. I’m 79kg/175lbs.

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Some new glamour shots :slight_smile:

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Top speed for today’s commute :sunglasses:

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woah 29mph? Did have anything left to give or was that finger to the metal?

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It was around half throttle, but there’s no difference between half and full at that point since the supplied current is already maximizing efficiency. I’m thinking of ways to bring the top speed to 32mph, but i’m not sure how I want to achieve this yet.

set my timeout brake current to 10A per VESC. Bad idea… got thrown off the board and sliced my thumb wide open. Don’t do this guys!

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What should it be set to?

i turned it off, but I’d recommend something light if you want to use it. Maybe 3-5 amps per VESC if you’re running two.

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Hey @jinra we’re about the same weight – just got back from pushing my board around the area. It’s about 75 degrees down here at the beach today. I found a nice long hill to test the setup at speed and I kinda got the wobbles a bit going fast. I’ve cranked the kingpin down a few times since I got the board but I was wondering if you eneded up putting different bushings than stock in your calibers?

I actually got these because they’re super hard.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111908755987?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=410866682453&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Though I still leave a bit of turni-ness in my trucks. Keep in mind some of it is just natural control you’ll learn. I’m sure I would’ve been fine at 29mph with my stock bushings as well. I was okay going 27mph on my dual kingpin trucks on my GT. Also, when you start getting the wobbles, it’s better to speed up than slow down as slowing down tends to exacerbate the problem.

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I’ve always liked the high rebound bushings from Venom/Riptide/BloodOrange. Each have something like this chart to help you get the right bushing for your weight:

I like this chart since it gives you some setups not just duro hardness of bushings - i like a elim/chubby on bottom and barrel or cone on top (i’m a heavy bastard at 265/120kg).

having options to customize the ride is really helpful!

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@sl33py thanks for this. Apparently Caliber II 10" come with a cone-barrel 89a bushing. I guess that explains my issue.

How does bushing shape affect your turning? Seems like one way or another I need some new bushings. cheers!

After a weekend of riding, I can confidently say my cut out issues have been solved. Thinking back I think some of the issues were due to the CAN cable coming loose, I just gave up trying to position them just right and soldered them on with some heatshrink. Added ferrite rings for the CAN cable, receiver cable, and front sensor wires for good measure.

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Sorry for the thread hijack @Jinra! Great build and love the pics of your setup w/ canbus.

@t1m0007 - a huge difference. Depending on the setup i usually do a barrel or elim on bottom (board side), and a lighter weight duro on top for a bit easier turn, but the high rebound duro bushings really help bring it back to center easily. Top i go barrel or cone if i want a lot easier turn.

that and carrying a skate tool so that as you get going faster you can stop and tighten down if too loose. Not much of an issue on a skateboard, but i’ve found that really helpful on e-boards where the speed range is so much bigger (cruising at 5-10mph vs hauling ass at 20+ - all on the same setup).

Bad news! Soldering the CAN cable worked well… too well. The cable ended up bending my CAN pins from being stuck in that small enclosure and it ripped off two whole pins on the slave VESC! I’ve now given up on the CAN and am using my second PWM output on my receiver to go direct into the second VESC, hope this works out better :slight_smile:

2 rows for 2 PWM signals! (No worries that ferrite ring is now properly insulated and added some padding on the receiver so the ring doesn’t smack it)

Also, one of my OM5065 motors has been giving off a weird scratchy sound when it spins. I ordered another one from chaka as a replacement and backup and will get this one fixed/replaced!

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Oh, also hit 31mph today with 97mm wheels. Might’ve gone faster but weenied out.

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A word of warning for speedsters and dragsters. I was racing @evoheyax this past Sunday and we full throttled it to compare acceleration and speed. Unfortunately, the fuse on the Space Cell blew and sent me flying. I always suspected the fuse seemed a little small ever since I got it and now my suspicions are confirmed! I’d feel much safer with a 60-80A fuse on there, but unfortunately 40A is the biggest fuse for the size. I decided to chop off the fuse and run fuseless for now. Interestingly enough, I’ve climbed some very steep hills for a long period of time and never blew the fuse. The thing that finally did it seemed to just be hard acceleration.

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Please which app are you using ?

speedometer gps on Android

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so what should we ( I ) do then if I want to keep using the stock fuse? ease into acceleration? or avoid going max speed?