Compared to most similar DIY boards, the battery is smaller and maybe the motors too. The airless tires also have a tendency to fly off the hub at high speed due to centrifugal forces. Not too shabby for a sub- $1000 board, although I’d love to see the exact battery cell used, because the favorite (30Q) is only 3Ah so a 3P pack would give 9Ah, and I’m curious to know what cell they used for the 10.5Ah pack. Probably the 35E, which is only good for 8A each compared to 20A each for 30Q.
All in all if I were to buy it, I’d probably end up replacing the battery and ESC, and then the motors later as a further upgrade.
Here’s something else to blow your mind: The letter approximately tells you how much discharge they will handle - Anything with an R is rated by samsung for 20A - 20R, 25R. One letter earlier, Q is rated for 15A. T is 35A, which is understandable because T is after R. E is Way down the scale, which is how I know from a glance that a 35E is a crap cell for high-discharge applications.
Yeah, it’s not perfectly linear as far as I can tell. I’m sure there are some cells they make that don’t follow that convention, and other manufacturers have their own systems, but for the common Samsing EV cells it’s a nice trick.
This board has been upgraded recently, I have a new one of it. The battery capacity is enlarged to 9.0Ah with Samsung 30Q battery. The solid wheels is insane, it’s so tough and flexy.
