This is the same as a loop-key, just prettier.
You could also forgot to switch off the switch in that sense. But if safety is your concern than you would also would like to consider the safety of battery shorts. I use switches to cut off power from battery from any source, wether itās from esc / charging cable. If you would like to add extra layer of protection, then you might want to add extra switch in your circuit for charging mode next to the adapter plug. Hence you would always see that switch every time youāre about to charge your board that make sure that no electricity come to the esc.
For me I just simply branch out battery output into 2. 1 for esc and 1 for charging. The one for esc has a power switch / loopkey with it.
If you would like to go the extra mile for safety, you could instal a relay / mosfet switch within your charging cable. Hence if the charging cable has power going through the cable, it will power up the relay / mosfet switch and cut off the connection from battery to esc. I am not an electrical engineer, so I canāt help you build such thing. But pretty sure some one here are able to make such smart system.
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I was obsessed with finding a switch and then decided the xt90s plug is simple enough.
I charge everything at once to 50 volts. All these wire connections i have since heatshrinked over and sealed not to be taken apart again. One big plug to charge or turn it on.
Here Iām charging with the bulk charger which has a watt meter in-line telling me the voltage and amps going in and with a balancer on the side
For anyone else looking for 3PDT switch so you canāt accidentally power up the ESC while charging, this is an option. http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/SW3833/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtNT9UGfLL4eEXUF0YHaQ0QQUQGD5zP87o%3D
You donāt need loopkey / antispark for it as it could handle pretty big amps easily. Only limited to 30V DC, hence itās about 8S top.
i use the solid state switch from on my 6S beteen the battery mains and the ESCs. This is how they are supposed to work. It wonāt hurt anything for sure.
Also, a BMS and laptop style charger is probably the best solution for onboard charging. Otherwise youāll have to figure out some kind of multipin connector solution for your balance leads and discharge leads for using a standard lipo/li-ion charger.
what does this abbreviation stand for ?
ON Off ON State means 3PDT and not DPDT. DPDT only has ON and ON. This switch is suitable for you. It has DC rating, has the Amps and has the switching state.
Hefty Price tag of 30 euro, but considering itās a specialize switch, itās cheap. At least cheaper than the electronic mosfet switch that you can be sure it has total power cut off.
BMS stands for Battery Management System
Battery Management System, i believe. ITs a circuit board that keeps your packās cells balanced, allows the pack to be charged using a laptop style charger, protects from over charge and discharge, and generally makes things a lot more convenient.
The only caveat is finding the right one for your needs. iām still digging around for the perfect one for my needs, but since iāve been playing around with ripped open space cells, i can totally see myself finding one for use with standard lipo packs. my next lipo build is definitely going to have one.
A DPDT with on-off-on state is a 3PDT switch without the thrid pole wiring sticking out 
speaking of BMSsā¦ i think i just found the mysterious 50amp space cell BMS on ebay. thereās also a 44.4v (thatās 12S folks) version on there as well. its $30 USD.
this makes me want a spot welder BADLY. Iāve already found LG HE2s for less than $5 each, which means you can build a 12S 4P for almost $100 less than a space cell retails.
Sorry, didnāt mean to derail the thread with my stream of conciousness. Please continueā¦
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Hey @longhairedboy Where did you find those LG HE2s? JP Spot Welder looks like a good option or if you want to only use 0.15mm max Sunkkos are good.
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they have other cell types too, very interesting high capacity cells that might be worth exploring.
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im asking around the same question. how did you permanently fixed thos econector to your enclousure? im trying to see if theres any other ideas besides epoxy
I use epoxy for fixing the connectors, what you need to do is create a base for the epoxy not to separated from the enclosure.
My process is like this, I have 1/8 thick abs and create a 3 layer base plate with an U shape where I can stick the connector, shown here made out of foam to illustrate
I cover each layer with the epoxy so they can form a strong base for the connector and stack them onto the connector in this manner.
So in short.
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make the orifice where you want to position the connector.
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make 3 base plate out of abs plastic with a opening for the connector, remember to sand the surface for better adhesion.
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position connector and use tape on the terminal side to prevent epoxy from getting in.
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apply 5 min epoxy to connector and to baseplate one at the time. Be generous with the epoxy.
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hold in place for 5-6 min until epoxy sets and you are done.
For the balancing ports.
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make a groove on the location you want to position the port. Make sure is just the same size of the wire flaten together.
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cut the wires and insert them through the opening and solder the wires on the other side.
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apply a little bit of epoxy to the wire and the opening and push the connector onto the epoxy, covering the opening and fixing the connectors in place.
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Thank you i will try this
These wheels are massive and beautiful, Bro - could tell me the name of them plz so that I could find myself some? Iām asking cuz ima new to the esk8 game. Thx a million
This is the link http://shop.mbs.com/accessories-492/mountainboard-wheels/mbs-all-terrain-longboard-wheels.html
Currently not a available
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Awesome! Thank you! Iāll keep looking and eventually find them somewhere 