Im thinking about buying this board instead|Acton Blink S2

if its 160whr then i’m pretty sure its the same battery as koolwheel/genisis/…/ from what I can tell they are using 2200mah 10A discharge cells, basically what hoverboards used but boards push them harder so the life is going to be really bad. voltage sag and horrible real world range.

I have 2 single drive boards, if i’m right you only push with one foot and there have been no issue with that? lol since the width of the wheels is so small there is not really noticeable torque steer or anything like that.

with a custom board you have real, proven longboard components, on a china board you have real cheap components! lol

would you slide on a walmart board? :head_bandage:

So if it’s 160Wh and 2200 mAh, that means it’s 72V? (assuming that formula is correct: Watt hour / Voltage x 1000 = mAh)?

And I kick on both sides when doing any distance, was a big fan of Chris Yandall and his “skogging” method - regular, switch, mongo, switch mongo. I like symmetry. :wink:

other way around… whr = V * C 36V * 2.2* 2 = 36*4.4 = 158.4 Whr

they are 10s2p, that extra 2…

i’m trying to picture someone riding away like that :sob::joy: add a ghost ride in the loop!

Ah, I see. Perhaps I should just build my own, as the dual drive modular units are pretty spendy themselves… $850 for the Eon, $650 for the Dash and ~ $1600 for mellow… Or just go with a cheaper single drive unit for now, while working on a build. :thinking:

Thanks for the numbers break down. The Blink S2 retail price is $999 US dollars. Does that tell us anything in terms of the quality of parts? Does that give more confidence for the ones who purchased this board that their claims are somewhat accurate?

If there is a board on the market at only 1k, be affriad, because they are not using high quality parts. you need to add 20-30% mark up to the diy price, so really, that 999 board likely costs them $600 at most. I already showed you that you can’t do that with quality parts…


So, like this? :wink::hugs::ok_hand:

Couldn’t they be using the same battery as this Koowheel setup, which is 4300mAh? Would make more sense for a brand new dual drive setup that Acton seems to be hinging their marketing campaign on?

Tons of “real, prove longboard components” are made in China though. When I was first getting into DH, Paris were the best trucks available, for instance. The really integral parts of a setup whose failure can be catastrophic during a slide are all made in China, or at least 95% - bearings, spacers, nylon lock nuts… so yeah I wouldn’t be overly concerned sliding a “Walmart board” like Kryptonics.

Well those prices are the cost for you and I to build a board. But you tell a manufacturer that you’ve got a million dollars in pre orders and I’m sure you can make our a lot cheaper with out shaving quality. Example; costco sells prefab vanities for an incredible price. If i build these exact same vanities with materials bought at lowes, it would cost me triple what costco sells it for. And mine wouldn’t be as nice. Manufacturing, marketing and distribution is a successful business for a reason. Wait til the boards are out and then we’ll review and critique them to prove or disprove their quality.

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I don’t think you understand… I have been in contact with manufacturers about bulk prices. I’ve been in the process of sourcing parts for a board I hope to release near the beginning of next year. I’m telling you, that even if I order enough parts for 100 boards at once, your still looking at no less than $4 per 18650 if your lucky (you’ll likely get fakes at that price), more likely $5 per cell. You need at least 40 cells to get a fair range, so that’s $5 times 40, which is $200 in cells at the lowest price possible. Motors, the cheapest I can get is $80 per motor, plus the bulk pricing paris truck deal hummie gets still is another $20 plus shipping, so about $200 for the motors. Then esc’s, you might be able to get down to $50 for a decent esc if your buying massive bulk. That’s $500, and that doesn’t include the board, the wheels, the bearings, and everything else you need. The hobby price of a board like this is more like $1500, instead of the $1200 price I quoted. You might be able to get this down to $700 if your really good about finding deals, and ok with taking risks with fake parts. But if you want high quality parts from respected manufacturers, you will pay more for the quality.

You just can’t build a high quality board this cheap, even if your getting mass produced bulk pricing… I’m in this boat right now. I’m not making these statements from ignorance, I’m stating what I have found from the last 6 months of research and contacting manufacurers.

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[quote=“evoheyax, post:32, topic:13384, full:true”]That’s $500, and that doesn’t include the board, the wheels, the bearings, and everything else you need. [/quote]

Well it looks like the battery is 20 cells, I emailed Acton and they confirmed it’s the 4400 mAh 36V, and previous statements mentioned Samsung and 160Wh so must be this one right? 18650?

So that’s a $80 battery, retail. So assuming when one orders in thousands rather than hundreds, perhaps it’s $70 or $60? That would shave your estimate down to $380 or $390, leaving $110-$120 for wheels, deck, bearings and hardware. Now, that doesn’t leave much room for any margin, but it got us to talk about it… selling near cost during a product introduction isn’t a radical business strategy - do you think enertion would turn much of a profit selling the raptor2 for $900? Of course not, they’re using the same basic marketing strategy.

If 40 cells is decent range, the s2 must have half decent range right?! (Maths!)

Thats exactly what I just said… :smirk:

and again if that is the battery. Samsung 18650 22p cells Max. continuous discharge current: 10A Nominal capacity: 2150mAh

10A MAX discharge means these are being pushed to their limits. Just like you see with bb users will discharge till empty, then charge, and start riding right away. This means the cells will probably die in 1/4 their stated lifetime because their measurements are usually based on .2C discharge.

and as for other longboard parts. yes paris and other brands are also made in china. But You have actual brand to hold acceptable for quality, as opposed to generic parts that can be made by a number of factories with no proven record.

and well its a good thing that you’re ok with a “krptonics” quality board, it seems like that all you want. Please wear proper saftey gear, you are most likely going to need it. :sob:

if your riding a board with a 10s2p only, your not getting close to 20 miles, heck, with a very efficient system, your going to get 4 or 5 at best. My first board was a very efficient enertion belt drive system (r-spec, enertion mount and belt and gearing). on an 8000 mAh, I could get about 6 miles. by that logic, 4-5 miles.

And these are hubs, so you’ll get even less range…

Not to mention, hubs pull more current. And at 10s2p, those cells are actually rated to 20 amp continuous cells, so you can do 40 amps continuous in a 2p, but you will sag soo bad, that it’s not even funny. 10 amp continuous is probably what they can do without sagging, but you need so much more than that. I’m pulling my max, 72 amps, on certain hills, and even on flat, I pull 20-30 amps. 10 amps will give you an extremely weak acceleration, and won’t be able to climb even a moderate incline.

For belt driven systems, you might be able to get away with it a bit better. But not with hubs.

If you want a toy, buy this. It will probably bring you a lot of fun. But it is just that… A toy. This is not a device for serious commuting. I would not rely on it to get me to class or work on time.

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What? There’s 2 sets of 10 cells each right? So 2150 x 2 = 4300 mAh total, unless I’m misunderstanding something? You and others in this thread keeps saying “oh 2500 mAh won’t be enough juice” but isn’t the total capacity a function of mAh and wH? Doesn’t this battery have a much high wH rating than the boosted? 99wH vs 158wh? I’m confused. How does one calculate the discharge rate?

Regardless, I’m not trying to commute from the suburbs, I live right off of a huge bike path that cuts under the streets, my work is .9 miles from my home. Mostly flats. Also I actually skate, so I’m not afraid of brakes failing - I can stop just fine without them. I don’t want a giant monstrosity of a longboard - like almost everyone else who skates DH, short wheelbase topmounts are my preference.

So, I get that a lot of this community values speed and hill climbing and distance, but those just aren’t my priorities. If I can get a few miles between charges I’ll be good.

Wow, alright then. You know what’s even more important than equipment and safety gear? Proficiency. Almost every electric skate video I’ve seen looks… dangerous.

Paris was an unknown brand 10 years ago, people said the same things then that you are saying now. I’m not convinced.

So, in other words it sounds like it might fit my needs. If I can get 4-5 miles and not have to lug around a 20lb behemoth, I’m good. Short wheelbase and narrow hangers = a setup that can turn. I like turning. Had to lol at that evolve GT - ridiculously long wheelbase and dropped platform for “stability” @ a whopping 26mph… then they go and put the kookiest trucks imaginable on it so it just might be able to do a uturn on a 4 lane hwy… there’s clearly a lot of understanding of engineering, but not much knowledge of skating.

You can push on a setup with hub motors though, so by my calculations that increases the range by approximately infinity miles… how many people have traversed the USA on an electric setup?

Ha, I’ve heard so many people disparage skateboarding in similar fashion, but usually its folks who have never touched a skateboard that make such remarks.

Is it ok with everyone if I don’t need or want a “serious” commuting skate? Is fun ok? Expression? Is a paintbrush a “toy” because it doesn’t get you get to work on time? :rolling_eyes:

A paint brush is a toy when it does a half ass job at what it is suppose to do.

I’ve been a heavy street skater for 10 years now. I’m not a n00b to this stuff. Your right about evolve. I find the fact they use a drop through with those trucks absurd.

I used to skate everywhere’s in SF by pushing on my normal street deck. I love to push, and electric skateboards will never stop me from pushing (heck, I even push on my eboard from time to time, which is one of the beauties of hubs).

What makes something a toy is that it is likely to break quickly, and cost a fraction of the respected board companies, not because they use a smaller battery or motors ect. but because they skimp on quality parts and engineering. I already broke down how you never get close to its range and will have very little power under your feet. If someone feels the need to exaggerate numbers this badly, I would not trust them with my life, which is what your doing on any thing you ride in the street with.

Like I said, if you want a toy to play with, this will likely do the job. But you want something reliable, this is not it. Never thought I’d say this, but if you really want something light and reliable, buy a boosted. There’s a reason they are not $700, and it’s not just because they have a larger markup…

What if the discharge rate was like 10A continuous, 20A max? Looking around there are 10s2p 4400mAh 36v batteries with specs along those lines available… and how do you explain all the YouTube videos showing decent range and speed with the “koowheel” boards which are speculated to share drive components, and are the same price range? There is a mashables video showing the s2 proto going several miles with ok acceleration… faked, or what?

There’s batteries of all specs imaginable available, so that means nothing…

What I’m saying is 10a continuous is very low for an electric skateboard.

Watching videos on youtube tell you very little… There’s no science behind them, unless they have video overlays that give data straight from the esc’s. This is why I have spent over 100 hours developing software for in app video overlays. This gives more data about the performance of the board at any given time. To use my software though, you need a vesc, and boards in this price range will never use an esc as nice as the vesc, because it’s too expensive.

Videos are deceptive. You can be going 15 mph and make it look like 30 mph if you get the right angles with the right lenses. Video overlays with speed data straight from the esc remove this illusion, but even most overlay videos on youtuve uses gps data. GPS data can be very inaccurate, so even those videos are invalidated.

And the s2 videos your seeing are prototypes, not the final board. Imboard did the same thing… They showed these great videos, and the final product is nothing like the prototype they sold everyone on…

You also need to be careful, because companies like this love to use light riders. The reality is, the biggest environmental factor on torque and top speed is weight. When you have someone whose 100 pounds and someone whose 200 pounds, those motors have to work twice as hard to move that 200 pound person. This means you need twice the continuous amps, which will half the range, ect…

I get, you want to validate your purchase. If your light and its your first board, you’ll be happy with it. But you’ll get bored quickly with the lack of torque. One day, after I release my board, I hope to compare these boards to show the world how weak these boards are.

Besides the reasons I have listed, being a street skateboarder, I’m sure you know how important is is to support the skateboarding community. The same is true for the electric skateboard community. Buying these boards from china do nothing for the community, but sink us into a deeper hole. The same thing happens every time you buy a deck from some off brand china board instead of supporting your local skate shop or skate companies.

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