(in progress build log) Omen Chief | Perpetual slow build | Hollow bottom double thick | + Dual VESC and Motors (Likely R-Spec's) | May add Eagletree eLogger v4 and LCD

[sl33py]

The year+ build is getting closer to completion. I usually hesitate to show before complete, but it’s great to see it’s getting closer to being ridden.

The “soul” of this build is a double thick deck thanks to RS4Race on ES (great build and inspired me). They made a few extras and i was able to nab one (at a discount even!). Lucky they were just a short drive north from me, and talking with the owner Matt was really cool. Got a tour and talked with them as they worked. Great crew and i have 3 Omen decks as a result.

Not quite “Vanilla” deck, but not setup how i wanted:

And the bottom setup for similar electronics as RS4Race’s build:

And here’s where i made my life difficult and decided to go from slow to glacial…

“how hard would it be to CNC out further for the electronics i want?” simple right!?! Just not for me. A buddy of mine at work makes custom wood furniture and has a DIY wood CNC (way before xcarve). He offered to give me an exact setup to my measurements. So i took a ton of measurements and started dreaming/planning:

Unfortunately what i got was not what i planned and this got shelved for 8+ months. A neighborhood kid hit Enter on his system and it drilled through in two spots (and apparently was drunk while doing the rest)… So i had some spots to fix:

I took some scrap CF to fill the two holes (one small one a bit oblong).

I originally planned to install these square 22mm CF tubes on each side to reinforce. Then liked the extra room (allows more batteries side by side width wise) and changed my mind to use just the “L” of one cut in half:

then cut them flush and used some Uni CF to further secure and reinforce them in. They are already epoxy glued in.

The top got a couple layers of 12k CF. The deck is beyond solid, but i’m a big guy and wanted to make sure it’s 110% for me at speed.

A significant lesson learned is to cut the edges of CF when gelled, then dremel as close to flush as possible - before sanding. Ate through a lot of 80grit before figuring this out. single layers of 6-9oz 3k CF - no biggie. 2-3 layers of 9oz 12k CF - holy crap! And while i wore a mask (i like my lungs) i didn’t wear a full sleeve shirt and CF dust is ITCHY! just FYI.

Fast forward a couple weeks as i tinkered a little after work in the evenings… and here’s where i’m at now:

It’s not perfect - show it pimples and all! Hand laid CF and epoxy = heavier than it needs to be. I know this and am OK with it. There are some waves, definitely bubbles, and i had to do 3 sections on the bottom vs one continuous (my roll wasn’t long enough that direction). It’s solid as hell though.

Next i need to build a CF bottom cover/cap on the lower half of the opening for my VESC’s and misc cables. Then the top portion of it will be for batteries. I’m trying to make it easily accessible to swap batteries for range.

Need to still drill the wire through holes in the back and re-drill the truck mounting holes. But it’s looking like a real board again and i’m looking forward to having a dual motor setup again!

Last - this is ongoing practice for my v2 Subsonic/Gbomb. I’ve learned a lot and will re-try vacuum bagging next.

Hope you enjoy and ask questions if any come to mind. happy to share my experience and the lessons (good and bad) learned during this drawn out build!

[sl33py]

More progress. Got the motor wire through holes opened back up, and drilled the truck mounts again. A neat trick when CF/epoxy over existing is just a dab of hot glue and sand flush before CF. Then drill before you CF and cover the other side!

I figured i’d see if it works as well as the boat guys said - packing tape…

Figured worst case i’d end up doing some more sanding… (never ending)

Tip: I did cover the sides of the deck this time to avoid re-sanding them again and did a little lip at the bottom and top so any overflow would go off the side vs onto nice finished CF.

Laid down some epoxy on the tape, first layer of CF, added some Uni to reinforce edges a smidge (partially wet out here):

Then added another layer CF on top, finished wetting it out. Gave it a good squeegee/scrape to work it throughout the weave and decided i’ll finish the 3rd layer separate. Glad i did this!

Wanted to try something to get it to mold to the deck contours a bit better…

Saran Wrap! But here’s where i’m glad i didn’t finish the 3rd layer. The CF laid down A W E S O M E w/ a bit of pressure from some foam i had (and weight on top):

But with nowhere for the excess resin to go - i got some clear domes and bubbles. Since this is only 2 of 3 layers, i can sand/fix and lay down the final visible/cosmetic layer on top of perfected lower hardened layers!

This morning i pulled the saran wrap off - no problem:

Then got it to slowly let go of the bottom tape layer (went slow and gentle), and saw the domed excess resin and bubbles i know i can fix(hit it really quick w/ sander and easier to see):

It will sand out easily. And i’ll finish the last layer on top of the fixed base to help it look nice and smooth.

Here’s the bottom - pretty damn good if i do say myself. give those bubbles scuff and a drop or two of resin to fill in and done!

What i’ll do differently next time. While i haven’t re-tried vacuum bagging yet - i’m liking the foam press idea (simple) for a quick setup like this. I have some perforated release film, which i’ll use next time instead of saran wrap - allowing the excess resin to escape up through the perforations and soak into either breather fabric or blue shop towels (a couple layers). This should get rid of the clear domes from excess resin. Then some saran on top of the breather/blue towels and foam to press down to help keep it molded like i want!

I have an idea on this lower section to get some more airflow on top of the VESC’s… We’ll see how badly i can mangle this idea next… Then will move onto the top section which will be the battery cover and hopefully easily removable!

Think it turned out really well even though a bit ghetto fab’d currently. All building experience and practice to lay CF better for the next project(s)!

[kane]

What a beautiful build! Thanks for all the photos … pure esk8 porn. My wife is probably wondering why I’m spending so much time on my phone.

Do you know if there are any more of the double think Omen Chiefs available? Such a perfect deck for a hollow core esk8.

[sl33py]

Thanks man - appreciate it. It’s a labor of love and don’t even want to think about how many hours spent with these. But honestly it’s about relaxing and tinkering and learning as i go… better than watching TV and brains oozing out my ears.

I’d give them a call and let them know you saw my build on here. Really cool guys - i talked with Matt the owner and might ask him. They had a couple extras there w/ the partial routing out already completed (that would fit RS4Race’s electronics). Worst case they say none left… No idea what they might charge to make a few more if folks are interested. I don’t mind that’s for sure.

[sl33py]

I got some more progress done tonight - hopefully finishing off the bottom electronics enclosure side.

I sanded and cleaned up the excess resin mounds, and sanded out as much of the bubbles and imperfections as possible. Cut the edge around - still leaving excess for now, but got rid of the un-epoxied fabric and squared it up:

I was going to try something “fancy” with the door wedges… ended up skipping for now. but edges cut and almost done sanding.

I did another layer of the Uni CF around edges to help reinforce any holes later, and then the final Blk/Grn CF:

Laid down the perf release film this time and tried to brush out any major wrinkles. I know it won’t be perfect, but i’ll lightly sand it again after and progress finer w/ a gel coat to finish it off and hopefully end up with a super clean finish.

Added some breather fabric to soak excess resin (out of blue shop towels, but had some scraps that worked perfect). I also used my hands to smooth it down and press hopefully some of the excess resin out.

Then added the saran wrap (protect any resin bleeding through and sticking to the foam) and some foam again on top(had a spare roll of acoustic foam roll that is nice and moldable). I think any soft foam would work with some weight on top. The softer the better and more weight the better it forms and presses around contours.

Let is sit overnight and set up - will check on it in the AM!

[kane]

I think hours spent creating something like is a much better use of time, then hours spent consuming something. It’s ultimately more rewarding although the journey may be a struggle.

Thanks also for discussing what you would do differently. I’ve never done any CF or glass work, and I’m learning a lot from these discussions. My xmas present to myself might have to be a vacuum pump and some materials so I can get my hands dirty.

[kane]

Also, I shot off a note to the guys at Omen … I’ll let you know what they say. It’s funny that they’re in Lynnwood … Just around the corner from where I use to live in Edmonds. Small world.

[sl33py]

More progress and feeling like it’s starting to look like what i envisioned!

Got the Blk/Grn CF laid down late last night - removing the perforated release film and breather fabric this morning - it turned out pretty well! the usual “fuzz” dots i’ll need to sand, and some creases and imperfections to sand/fix.

Again - not perfect, but know i can sand and fix this pretty easily. I’ll then give it a thin gel coat at the end to wet it out and make it look nicer.

So this afternoon, started on the top battery cover.

(packing tape around the mdf i shaped into the cover)

one layer of CF, with Uni CF around the edges to reinforce

Did two layers, some Uni inbetween to stiffen/reinforce, and final Blk/Grn CF:

Placed perf release, breather fabric, and saran on it. Foam and weight left it to finish setting up and went to friend’s bday party.

Got home and here’s where we are at!

a bit tougher to get it to release, but got the battery cover removed and cleaned up the edges a bit. Here’s a quick final look.

Tomorrow - Will sand smooth, progress to finer grit and gel coat it to finish. The bottom will be secured and the top battery cover should be easily removable for swapping/charging.

so light and strong - the top cover is really light and still very rigid/solid!

small update - sanded the enclosures and laid a quick coat on them. Will build up a layer or two and then sand progressively finer until smooth enough. Still some bubbles and imperfections, but should be close to set now…

[cdn]

Wow, what a change from when I last seen this board. It was pretty messed up when I seen it. I could have done a better job routing for you and I don’t even consider myself a professional. I’m glad you didn’t give up on this build. Seeing all these builds with CF makes me want to jump in. Only one thing holding me back is the COST. What would you say to be a conservative dollar value to get step up to do a board?

[sl33py]

@cdn

I could have done a better job routing for you and I don’t even consider myself a professional.

You and me both brother! I did end up cleaning up some stuff w/ my router. Can get squirrely by hand, but i could’ve done better myself w/o “CNC”. He tried, and i can’t blame him, but i won’t give him another deck. I’ll do the next by hand carefully and get it done faster and better.

As for costs - It’s a lot of nickel and dime crap you don’t know you need to start…

The big cost is epoxy and CF fabric.

Epoxy - ~$65 quart - $140 Gal (West Systems). (i did get some total boat 5:1 to try - about $100 gal) CF Fabric - A lot of the 3k weave i got “seconds” from Elite Motoring for a great deal (perfect for first layers). Looking for a deal helps, but i’m seeing rolls (depends on color and type of weave and weight) from $30-80.

disposable brushes at local hardware store are about $1.50-2.00 - but found a 36 pack on Amazon for about .50 ea.

I would recommend the metered pumps to anyone getting >1qt. The mixing cups work well, but when you are pouring it’s a lot of epoxy. If you meter by pumps you can make up little batches and not waste as much if you make too much. They are reasonable cost wise (15-20 iirc) and reusable (swap to new jug).

Garbage bags make a great barrier to drip onto and easily release/clean up. Saran Wrap, some blue shop towels or breather fabric. Some scrap foam (if you want to weight/press like i did). Pain stir sticks work OK, but soak up a bit of epoxy. I found the el-cheapo 1" plastic scraper at local store (about .99) worked great and easy to clean up afterwards (peel dried epoxy) and re-use!

Now if you want to get into vacuum bagging (the best result and my next couple project will practice this) - it gets expensive quick. Besides the vacuum pump - $40 (fridge unit on ebay) or single stage around $80 to ~$200 for 2 stage (prices vary a ton). You can also get the manual pump like roarockit uses. Or venturi pump - tons of options, just not likely to get -28/29in Hg vacuum.

The stretchy film, butyl tape, release and breather fabrics etc - all on fiberglast with videos on differences. $$ to $$$$.

I would guess that i realistically have about $75-100 materials into this build. Not counting my time.

Most importantly it’s been a ton of FUN! Besides being itchy (i just can’t wear a long sleeve shirt in the hot garage), it’s fun to make it yourself and it’s really starting to look good IMO.

I’ll update later, but got the last gel coat on the covers last night. So cured and ready this am. Cleaned up the edges a smidge and just about ready to cut down to size and work on mounting them to the board!

[sl33py]

Busy weekend and not a ton of progress. But got the final coats on the covers. Could use some more sanding and a quick buff to make them look awesome. Still some bubbles and imperfections, but overall really pleased.

I cleaned the edges up again (excess resin) but still need to cut it down to the size i want to mount to the board, and then need to finalize the mount i want for the top battery cover.

A quick mockup:

[michaeld33]

Hehe, the picture looks really stretched out on my screen. Maybe it’s just me tho. I really like the green, is that kevlar? Either way, it’s nice. Good job! CF is a ton of fun, and so rewarding in the end.

[sl33py]

Yeah, it’s odd - if you click the image it’ll open correctly… not sure why it stretches like this. Maybe i’ll flip it and re-link.

Yes, Carbon/Kevlar. It’s really starting to come together now. just about ready to start mounting electronics…

[kane]

Wonderful work! That emerald green light is gorgeous, and looks soooo smooth!

[sl33py]

yeah, that’s an illusion - there’s quite a few bubbles and imperfections. I have a buffer i may try (brother borrowed it). Will ride as is, or some “strategic” stickers maybe…

I got the bottom half cut/shaped/fitted, and mounted. Need to do a final trim plus some more sanding of edges, and the same for the top/battery cover next.

late to the party as usual, i found that if while i was cutting/sanding if i hold the vacuum between my knees over the cutting/sanding area - i wear a lot less itchy CF dust! Genius! (yes i’m slow to figure this out as i’m nearly done). But good for next time.

[sl33py]

Helped @Smurf with his slow build, which got me motivated to get my butt in gear too. I spent some time last night finally getting the neo magnets installed and neoprene gasket installed. Since i wasn’t quite as accurate with spacing using my router hand-held, getting the magnets to align was a bit of a PITA.

Trick i eventually figured out was a couple layers of neo magnets on the board - set the “lid” on the raised magnets, and then stuck magnets on the exterior and taped them to hold in place. Then when i removed the lid, epoxy on the magnet would snap to the correct location to align correctly.

these small 1/4" n52 magnets are STRONG! I think i have 6 per side and another 4 or so along the top… I’m going to add some sort of 1/4 turn fastener (Dzus likely), or screw at the top/bottom to give a bit of protection from a hit or big bump knocking the lid loose from magnets (kinda unlikely).

quick pics:

(not worried by the bit of epoxy smear - going to be under some thin neoprene gasket to keep some dust out)

packing tape to hold other magnets down onto the recessed ones already glued into board - then top magnets taped in place for when remove lid to glue magnets to underside.

I did some sanding (wore a mask, but still wore a lot of CF and itchy today), and next i’ll start placing electronics inside.

Going with dual DIYes 6355 190kv motors, DIYes v3 mounts, dual 12mm belts, and 97mm 75a Flywheels.

Also working on a much simpler Omen Sugar single 6374 149kv (SK3 motor) - my “guest” board!

More updates and pics soon (really - not 6 months from now).

[sl33py]

Got the lid sanded a bit more tonight. mounted trucks to test fit. Now just need to pick which electronics will go in the belly…

Lid:

And opened up to start installing ESC’s, Rx, etc.

waiting on 12mm belts for the 16/40 gearing… Or need to grab some 15/14t 12 gears which would work with ones i have… bit scared of top speed on 10/12s Have some 9 and 15mm gears, but lacking 12mm ones…

[smurf]

I’m a big fan of tyvec suits. Yes there hot with out any airflow but it is so much better than being itchy and you can reuse them or just throw them out.

[sl33py]

I wore my big jacket, zipped up, with gloves this time. Mask of course, because i like my lungs. I had the vacuum going as i went and went a little slower which made for a lot less dust in the first place.

I’d love a tyvec suit for this on occasion, but haven’t found one my gargantuan size… If they fit like a toddler’s onsie after a growth spurt - what’s the point with it at my elbows? The heavy jacket gloves, etc seemed to do the trick - and slowing down a bit so the majority of the dust is sucked into the vacuum.

[smurf]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZZTM1E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5R5P090UBH4&psc=1