So I was planning to buy DIY electric’s on/off switch, but I am pretty hesitant after reading reviews about failures shortly after installation. Is there anyone who has had the switch work well for them?
Also, if anyone has a different On/Off switch, please link it to me because I don’t want to spend $60 on something that will last 10 seconds. Thank you!
@JdogAwesome is going to have some in a week or two I think! Custom made and reliable from the review.
I have the DIYES switch. Bought it used for $40. Been nearly a year and hasn’t failed on me so far. I’m running 10s dual 6355’s.
I have run a MEB switch on my 6s build for months and never had an issue.
https://miamielectricboards.com/shop-1/120amp-12s-power-switch
I would buy that one but it is sold out 
DIY electric’s? How did you get it for $40?
Ahh I didn’t realize that! I posted one for sale yesterday but it has already been purchased.
@JLabs Thanks for the kind words! Anyways yeah I will have my new EBoard Switches in stock in about 2-3 weeks, price is $35 a piece. My switch can handle 40A continuous and far higher bursts which is far more than enough for most boards. Im currently using in my board an old design of mine using just a single FET (compared to the two in my new design) which means it has a max of 20A continuous and it doesn’t even get warm. My switch also comes in at just 1.8" x 1.15" which makes it one of, or the most compact on the market. They also come with a lifetime satisfaction guarantee so ill do whatever I can to make you happy with your purchase.
Alright, I’m just gonna buy it and hope that it doesn’t break
I have a feeling people that have broken theirs have something setup wrong.
How did you set yours up?
Pretty straight forward, negative to battery (or BMS) and positive to battery positive, then the other end had an XT-60 which goes to my parallel connector. I also attached a voltmeter to the end with the XT-60.
Perhaps others had it hooked up to the battery, voltmeter, fuse, or other device in a weird way.
I’ve bought two and both failed within a few weeks, I’m absolutely POSITIVE it was installed correctly. I use either the BMS switch and/or XT90-S now.
Hm weird, could be a variety of various factors. Maybe we’ll never know…
I think there might have been a run of bad fets, I don’t really care as I just don’t trust switches. I prefer the loop key arrangement, even if its not the most attractive.
Ok I changed my mind, do you know any tutorials on youtube about installing the loop key?
i’m using a loop key now but going with a antispark switch for this main reason.
the female end of the loopkey is mounted to my enclosure. the constant inserting / removing of the male part has quickly dislodged the female end mounted to the enclosure. now the female end is just kind of hanging there loose and i need to grab with one hand while inserting the male end. basically, loop keys get a lot of abuse. and you’d be surprised how quickly you get tired on pulling the loopkey in and out.
in terms of how…
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-anti-spark-xt-90-loop-key/204
@mmaner im really interested in why some of the vendors ive seen switches keep breaking on people so quickly. Ive had mine running for over a year just fine. I would love to get a hold of one of these broken switches, is there any chance I could buy one of the broken ones off of you for examining it? Im in the US FYI. It sounds similar to the problem I was having with my VERY early designs a year or more ago were I didnt have zeners and was driving the gates with way to high of a voltage, maybe its the same problem? Anyways let me know!
I’ve heard some information from various people stating their their mosfets blew leaving it in an “always on” position