@StefanMe Yes, temporarily until I have time and fresh products to continue it.
For this period of time I canceled my premium subscription of the shopsoftware so the website can not be found under the custom domain anymore, now a “bigcartel” phrase is within the adress like this https://antisparkheaven.bigcartel.com
Once I continue, I will announce it here for sure!
The main improvement is the two separated power circuits, one to charge up the capacitors of the ESC via high performance resistors and one to carry the load current, this way the main mosfets do not get stressed because of the inrush current and therefore the main reason for failure is eliminated.
So you could say it’s an automated XT60-S connector.
Thanks! It’s about 16mm thick, so under the diameter of a 18650 cell, I have a few different mosfets here right now, IRFS7530, IRFS7730 and IRFS4010. I’ve made some with the 4010 now.
A big one-piece-heatsink at the back is problematic because it would probably touch and short the copper.
The button simply connects the battery to the mpu of the switch so there is no required load if I understand your question correctly.
Not sure if it’s doable (really a random idea) but maybe a derived source from battery cables (ESC side + a step down so it works only when ) with something like a Zener diode + a shunt to redirect thresold voltage and a lil chip to monitore voltage level (so it registers and works at any battery voltage level) all wired to positive side of the button switch…
This should do the trick to turn ON the thing no ? Easier said than done tho
Ok got it. But I still want to plug a soft-latch press ON / hold OFF button to your module so now there’s no more minimal load to provide on the module side ? Just sort out the soft latch on my side and that’s it ?
What about a thermal pad or electrically insulated thermal paste then ? Could do the trick IMO.
@goldenHusky so even using just two IRFS7530 you can do 100A? Asking since I use the original vedder switch and thought that it would only handle 40A tops
I would too, until I looked at this circuit. With the non-momentary switch, he’s gotten this down to zero microamps while turned off. That means it won’t kill the battery over extended times of non-use. I kind-of like the way he did this.
You’d just have to ensure whatever switch you use is robust and won’t rattle loose.