I understand that the + and - power the LED on the switch, I just didn’t know where to connect those terminals to on the PCB. I found that the NC pad on the PCB is the - (MOSFET drain?) and the other two pads (C, NO) both have +12V. I tried both combinations to the LED and neither worked right. Maybe the picture DeathCookies posted above might work?
Could you mark in this picture where you have attached + and - ? would be very kind http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/optimized/3X/e/5/e594848ed3834bdb62218a6d301a8aadfd2dc95a_1_624x500.jpg
I don’t have access to a computer ATM, but I would attach the - of the LED to the bottom right pad, or the MOSFET drain. And the + of the LED you need to connect to the positive rail with an appropriate current limiting resistor, I would use ariund 3-4KOhm resistor.
1 Like
You only want the NO teminal connected to the positive rail, or the 12S (50V) of you battery, common connects to the input for that MOSFET gates. The NC pad connects to the MOSFET source, all it does is pull the gate low so that it stays in the off state.
Hey JdogAwesome,
I’m gonna try to modify the sparkswitch to accept led switches standard. Did I make the modifications correctly? Is that how you explained it. If I’m correct you just connected the plus or minus respectively to the in and output line.
i’m using a 0603 6k 500mW resistor. This should limit the current to 6.666mA on a 50V battery (as the internal resistance of the ledswitch is already 1500ohm).
Hey sorry for the late reply, yeah that should work for powering the LED. Though im curious why there are 6 terminals for the switch? You only really need 4, one for the LED+ one for - and two for the actual switch. I get the 5th terminal for the NC state to pull that gates down, but its unnecessary.
It’s not. For a safe operation it’s crucial that the gates are always on a defined potential. If the gate pad is “in the air” you expose it to the enviroment with all it’s interferences which most likely results to a floating voltage level on the gates that can turn your anti spark switch randomly on and off.
6? You probably meant 5. And yes I can indeed probably combine P8 and P11. But then I’d need to put 2 cables from the LED switch into 1 JST socket and that doesn’t seem very orderly.
@goldenHusky: How do you mean? Because the switch used has to always be a spdt, so it doesn’t float normally. Or I might be missing your point.
Ah! That explains things. This thing is good to go then, glad to hear. I’'ve thrown a design on oshpark already.
To save space I’m placed the 5pin jst on the bottom and use the angled kind.
1 Like
No it is unnecessary as long as you have a pull down resistor. That’s the entire point of a pull down lol.
Yea sure, but there is no pulldown on his pcb. And most led switches are spdt anyway so a pulldown resistor would be nothing but additional cost.
I was just saying it unnecessary if you add a pull down resistor, should have been more clear about that. And I prefer having as few wires coming off the PCB to the switch as possible, so using a pull down would be simpler. And it would be “nothing but additional cost” yeah of like half a cent lol, resistors cost nothing.
1 Like
@3sly Is this in the shared projects? This is just what I’ve been looking for! Would really like to make some.
Well, I’d like to make a couple first to see if it’s practical and nothing is in the way. That way I can test everything before spreading it out there. I’d make a thread with some pictures of the finished product that way people would get more exited I think. Once I know they work, I’ll send them out there as a shared project 
Sounds like a plan! Thanks!
@Eboostin Did you ever get around to try it? I’m searching for a solution and have the same on/off switch.
I’m just going too hook my led up to my step down converter and hook up the switch as normal with my leads show from top to bottom nc no c and it will power on with my lights when I turn my board on
If you dont have an anti-spark switch that includes the LED driver, you can use the +5v feed from the VESC. I’ve done it, completely safe.
* from @Namasaki
2 Likes
I might use my step down converter instead because I’m going to have 2 fans running on my vesc lol I thought that too but don’t want to overload the vesc
1 Like