Little help with focbox settings

What settings would be causing my board to suddenly decelerate when i try to accelerate at high speed? Right now its at 40 -40 30 -20 and 120 total

I also have it im sensored bldc. My biggest concern is that my current battery for this build is a diyeboard battery. I don’t know the specs of it and what i can set my settings to.

it would be helpful it you tell us the rest of your setup… but that -20a seems a bit on the high side, are you bypassing bms for discharge?

or you got got a crappy bms

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I was thinking the same do maybe -10

Dual 6355 tb motors and two vesc x… the recommended was -12 but im pretty much guessing with the numbers

What is the max amps for motors that is what you would set for motor max like 60a

I have em at 40 max amps

That shouldn’t be the motors max though my 5065 have a max of 46a

The deceleration only happens if i full throttle gun it already going fast… kinda feels like the battery isn’t providing enough juice for that burst. Once i let go of the throttle i can accelerate like normal

Its definitely the bms, diyeboard batts use bms for charge and discharge, too much currect back into the battery can cause cutouts (not related), surpassing the bms ratings for your bursts can also cause cutouts.

mabye take the heatshrink off of the diyeboard pack and bypass the bms for discharge. dont push it though the cells arent that good.

Im just glad its not my settings. This board is mre for cruising than speed. I just noticed it on testing it when doing the full speed attempt

What diye battery do you have. Its all about the battery. Everything is the battery. First and foremost the battery. Life is the battery.


You get it. I like that. A lot.

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10s5p but i think its the older Samsung version. Got a 12s4p and 10s5p 30q coming. I honestly figured that was it. Its my only diyeboard part left

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Let me tell you a little story. All those diye batteries with their lovely integrated bms’s are rated for the esc’s they are supplied with. Those esc’s only draw, note draw, the amps that they can cope with. You try to pull anything over 20amps per side and the bms will pop. Trust me on this. Just because its a 25r 5P battery makes no difference when the esc only draws 18A per motor. Chinese being the chinese will only supply a bms capable of those draws. They don’t care that you might then go and mate it up to a unity or focboxes capable of ripping amps from them in spades. The battery will rely on its shit cheap nasty bms to tell you to fuck off. I have killed 2p 3p and indeed 5p bms’s with after market vesc. Re wire the thing with a bestech charge only d140 and then you can up the draw to the batteries capacity.

Then it will sag like a witches tit though


after googling “sagging like a witches tit” I have to agree with this guy. that battery is great for powering your 12 volt radio up the beach.


you fucking sure with this guy??? I will find you at the ettamoga pub

Nice to know you’re still about btw

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So with the new bms, how long would it go until voltage sag hits? What should my settings be? Would a 30 dollar bms even be worth the spend on this battery?

Wizard Sleeves.


Is your 120 total the Absolute max?

Ive seen people edit that value and then their vesc behaves irregularly, I usually just keep it at 130A as thats the default


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