I recently screwed up a motor can trying to tighten the set screws that go onto the motor shaft.
If anyone has any motors with broken windings or for some reason has a spare can I will be happy to buy it off of you. Will pay for part+shipping.
Thank you so much!
I have one! Sensors aren’t working, the wires got pulled coming from the stator, but the pcb is fine. Shoot me an offer by pm
This might be a bit off topic but I recently broke my 6374 esk8 motor shaft, (don’t ask me how, I’ve never seen or heard of a shaft breaking) the motor is under warranty but the company is only willing to send me a new shaft. I disassembled an old motor of mine and the shaft was super hard to get out, breaking a magnet in the process. The set screws were completly taken out. Does anyone know an easy way to change out the motor shaft?
I’m interested in tightening, but avoiding the screwing up part. Can you tell us more details of what went wrong? Tools used, how much muscles you have, etc. 
To take out the hard shaft, easily, just take out the two set screws on the back of the motor can and place the motor loosely in a vice. Then take a Flathead or a center punch and give that hard shaft a few love taps and it will come right out super easy. The shaft is made of very hard steel (i thinks) so it will be extremely difficult to damage the hard shaft.
Diagram for reference:
@deucesdown I cammed out one of the little grub screws and failed to drill it out. From now on I instantly replace those crummy grub screws with Grade 12.9 M4 Socket Cap screws.
Next question would be, isn’t it better to damage the screw, than the thing it screws into? 12.9 screws are much harder than the motor can, right? At least with a messed up screw you have a chance at a save? Maybe go with a normal grade socket cap or hex head screw?
But thanks for answering. I guess heat required for this job, to break the loctite.
Def way harder than the can. I think in either case you’re fucked. If the screw gets stuck in there it’s over for your motor can as even the grub screws that come with the motor are steel (likely grade 12.9 too). You could try using say stainless fasteners but the torque you can put on the head is significantly less, meaning that the fastener could become loose after vibrations. As for hex head screws, there simply isn’t enough room. To make the socket cap screws fit I had to turn down the sides of the screws and remove the sensor boards from the motor.
Also don’t worry about applying heat. You risk damaging the motor coils when dumping so much heat into a small area. Using this technique will break the locktite without any heat needed.
The shaft is in with locktite on the more recent tb motors.
Sorry I don’t think I was being clear, I was mostly talking about the grub screws not the shaft. I’m looking at some SK3 motors and those tiny grub screws, weighing options.
