Supposed to be “wheelbite” not wheelbase… autocorrect
Yes, wheelbite is a bad thing. When your rotating grippy wheel hits the deck, you end up on your face. Your trucks are not nearly wide enough to clear the deck with chopping it or adding an insane amount of risers
Also, you should topmount the deck. It’s going to be way too low as a drop-thru. That’s the main reason why you have no clearance for your motors
Yeah already started looking at that, I’m already switching out the mounts…
The board shape allows for some huge tires to go in there before i have to worry about hitting the deck, even on turns. I’m relocating the truck mounts (see above) anyways but I’d still like some bigger AT tires. I’ll be riding mostly in NYC and the road conditions are terrible.
So I’m printing some gears for the drive wheels. So far I’m trying out printing JuniourPotato93’s “Longboard Orangatang Kegel 36 Tooth Pulley for 9mm, 12MM and 15mm Belt” in 12mm from Thingiverse.
It might work topmounted with risers, but I seriously doubt it. Not if you want any reasonable turn anyway. I think you will need to chop the deck somewhat
My Rayne Demonseed has significantly larger cutouts than the Maestro and is less than 1/8" from biting on 90mm wheels during hard turns
I top mounted (for now with no risers) and the 80mm clear no issues on full turn. I’m going to mount the rear the same and check there too and see what my clearance is for my motors then…
Got some drive gears printed off thingiverse for my wheels. Thanks to @JuniorPotato93 for his design and sharing it.
So I started this project a year ago and didn’t get to do anything past what you see here. Finally I was able to get some momentum again. I finally got to taking care of my 40 25R and building my 10S4P. Here are some shots of the work in progress…
Final result 38.4V
That is pretty sweet looking I’m looking at Li ion packs and they are super expensive
It took the better part of the afternoon but I’m pretty happy with it. Pretty costly here because I bought original Samsung cells and I also purchased a spot welder. Hopefully it will be worth it down the line.
Nooooo, you need to redo the nickel strip on that bro
yea dude that nickel is TINY…
@GrecoMan Can someone give specs as to why this is too small besides gut feeling? I’m totally fine redoing something if there is an actual need.
Same as my other reply, so you have data backing up why you feel the strip is too narrow. Totally ok redoing if there is data to back it
sorry, didn’t mean to come off as a dick.
can you tell us how wide and thick those nickel strips are? the thicker and wider the strip, the more amprege it can support. btw those welds look great! just nickel looks a bit small for esk8 purposes
That looks like 6-8mm nickel strip, is guess nickel plated from the look which would generate a lot of heat and last up to 6-10amps, your battery is capable of 80a you will more than likely burn through that very fast
If I remember they’re 7mm x .1mm which I doubled up (not in picture). This isn’t so much going to be a performance board but more an endurance one so amperage draw should be lower than most
Don’t think it’s plated but I’ll test a piece in the am