welp i guess ill wait like the rest of us simpletons 
1 Like
Yes. I think this was something that was added by Trampa though, as I also saw it isn’t on the standard issue.
I’ll do this. There is a hole cutout for the LCD display which I can perhaps mod a little too get the receiver through. At the moment I just worked the receiver antenna wire outside the box, but seeing that the ‘antenna’ wire isn’t official, I’m not convinced that’s actually doing anything.
OK, I made the modification and moved the receiver to just above the LCD on the enclosure. It works! The range is much better!
But like an idiot I went for a test skate without securing the receiver and now I’ve broken some of the wires. 
. Guess it’s time for the soldering iron.
1 Like
I must just give a shout out to all the very helpful people on this forum. Unlike some other people who felt they were put in an enclosure and ganged up on recently (ahem ahem) I have only had fantastic experiences on this forum. Everyone is extremely helpful and willing to share.
5 Likes
You my friend asked the right questions. You asked for help. You got it. Simple.
I managed to pull the wires on my receiver again!
I went to all the trouble of successfully soldering the wires back on the receiver and building an enclosure for the receiver that I then glued to the top on the main enclosure. I went for a test ride and on the way back the little enclosure broke free and one of the wires got ripped off again.
So I came back to solder it and really struggled. My technique is really bad and I think I may have heated up the pc board too much and now it’s not working.
So I’m going to have to find a new receiver for the remote. Does anyone know where I can get one?
Or perhaps it’s salvageable?
Best is to post a picture of the problem, there are many good eyes around…
Here you go. This is after I removed the wires again and tried to clean it up.
I fixed it! I connected the ground cable and then touched the 5V cable to pin, but nothing happened, so I touched it to the next one and the light went on. I realised that at least then the receiver wasn’t broken. I then connected the yellow wire in the correct hole and tested where on the board the 5V wire would turn on the board and sync with the remote. I found the spot and then soldered the wire directly to that spot. This is the spot that it turn out to be:
I then made a very basic enclosure for the receiver to stick on to my enclosure with doulbesided tape.
This whole bit is in there.
It stays completely stuck to the board and now there is absolutely no movement between the wires and the board, so no chance of them coming lose!
I’m really glad I don’t have to get another receiver!
The enclosure is quite flimsy, so I’ll upgrade it when I have a moment, but for now at least I can skate.
2 Likes
I think building a much better trigger based remote with an information screen is a huge opportunity for some company. The remotes are a big gap right now.
1 Like
I’m gonna go ahead and say this is false. I’ve driven esc cars for many years and you definitely notice if there is a cut out. Especially during full on racing.
Same here and I can honestly say that I have never experienced it during a race. My futaba was over $400 aus though lol Then my original point still stands then. Why on earth can’t we make a decent remote for esk8? People baulk at the cost of a hoyt but seriously its the most important part of the set up imo. If you can’t trust the remote you can’t relax and enjoy the ride. I personally would pay a premium for that peace of mind.
2 Likes
In the scheme of The total price of a build, $120 remote isn’t that expensive
Skateboards should work like drones. They need to watch the wheel speed and sense the current incline. The remote needs to control into actual speed, not motor speed. The incline and current speed could predict the exact motor speed needed to achieve this. Then you control where the board is over time, not what the motor is doing.
1 Like