Lol I have hundreds of thousands of different sockets so guess it was no big deal to shave one down and works good on mine. Of course not the snaps or the crafts but the harbor freights can get cut all day lol
I’ve gone the custom route, this seller agreed to cut down to 23.5mm length, cost was £17.50 delivered iirc
The OD is 15.9mm but I don’t think that would matter much at all if the nut is tightened normally, you should not be torquing the shit out of a m12 Nyloc nut on a esk8
Compared to my Aprila rear wheel which is 32mm & torqued to 120 NM (88 Ft-Lbs), in fact I fly @Grozniy over to do it for me
@MBS is there an official spacer for sale to avoid this route?
The ones that @idea sells in his kit are a hex shaped rod that’s threaded. I’m at work and just so happen to have a tiny version of one next to me for some odd reason…
Long story here… but in short, we’ve never used spacers but recognise the assembly advantages so we’ll start making the available. To date, we’ve always just tightened the nut then backed it off until wheel spins freely (zero lateral stress on balls but without any play side to side). At that point the stresses are the same as a set-up with a spacer but you know for certain the outer races of the bearing are are contacting the hub. With respect to stress, whether it’s with a spacer or without, the big lateral stresses from a wheel predominately get carried by a single bearing. But yes, for assembly it’s 100% better to have the bearing because you can just crank down to the appropriate torque and be done. No feel required. The only disadvantage to spacers is they add a tolerance to the system. If the spacer is a little short it does nothing (except cause a rattle that can never be fixed). If too long then there is a small amount of lateral play introduced between hub and bearings. Not a problem if the amount is very small (i.e. well designed spacers with tight tolerance).