Motor/ESC brakes under hard acceleration

[Namasaki]

Maybe @lowGuido can shed some light here. He is an expert on the XCar Beast ESC.

[Clonkex]

Interesting, I didn’t know anyone here was.

[Namasaki]

He has been using them for years although I think he uses the 150a model. One thing for certain, if you use a Car ESC you need the programming card to adjust settings. I would not recommend using any Car ESC as it comes with default settings.

[Clonkex]

I have the 150A model as well, and I don’t have a programming card, I have the programming LCD thing which I plug in to my computer via USB.

[Namasaki]

The LCD box is a programer. I used one like that on my Torqueboards 12s ESC’s You should be plugging the ESC into the LCD box

Check out this video from Torqueboards.

DIY Electric Skateboard: How To Program ESC 6S 12S

[lowGuido]

i have used X-car beast 150A ESCs on a lot of boards and I have never seen this before. I have only ever used the 150A version though so I imagine that it could be an initial current draw too large for the ESC and some sort of protection. you could try setting your punch to low. but as I said I have only ever used the 150A not the 120A so it could be a limitation of the 120A version.

[lowGuido]

I use 3.0v cutoff Forward brake no reverse. Motor timing very high Initial acceleration low 0% drag brake Brake force 70% Neutral 4%

[Clonkex]

@Namasaki I know, I’ve successfully programmed the ESC several times.

@lowGuido I have the 150A version. What makes everyone assume it’s the 120A version? (I’m not annoyed btw, just curious; is the 120A more common?)

@lowGuido

I use 3.0v cutoff — I forget what mine’s set to Forward brake no reverse. — I currently have reverse enabled, though I’ll disable it because it doesn’t help anything Motor timing very high — haven’t changed this on mine so it’s probably still medium Initial acceleration low — same 0% drag brake — same Brake force 70% —I think mine’s still 50% Neutral 4% — I think I set mine to 10% because my controller has a slightly dodgy pot

[Namasaki]

@TeslaAlex has a 120a

[lowGuido]

sorry I thought I saw a reference to a 120A ESC above. in all the ESC’s I have used I have never seen this problem… its replicatable always??? or only straight after boot up??? I have seen one time where the battery detection on boot up takes a little while and the 6th beep will throw you if you try to ride it immediately. I watched the youtube and it doesnt look like that case in the video.

[Namasaki]

Maybe try disabling the low voltage cutoff. When I was running my TB 12s ESC’s, I disabled the low voltage cutoff because I heard that it was not reliable and accurate anyway. I think it’s possible that your low voltage cutoff might be triggering even though your voltage is not too low.

[lowGuido]

yes, could well be the low voltage cutoff… I have never found the LVC to be that useful in the HK ESC’s

[Clonkex]

Wait, the beeps are the number of cells?? I assumed it was just an annoying arming warning. I definitely don’t try to ride it until it’s finished beeping, and it’s 100% replicatable as many times as I want.

I’ll try changing the settings when I get home. I may well have low voltage cutoff too high. I wonder if @TeslaAlex may be thinking he’s changing settings on the ESC but not succeeding? Entirely possible. I’m just trying to work out if it’s possible that changing settings might work, when Tesla says he’s tried all the settings and it never fixed anything.

It’s worth mentioning also that when I first tested my board in town I didn’t accelerate very hard because of the slipping belt so I didn’t see this problem while testing it, except when I tried to ride up a not-super-steep hill and a little way up it threw me off. I don’t remember what the throttle was at but I think it was at full throttle and had been for about 20 seconds. It would have been just at the start of the steepest bit of the hill when it just stopped suddenly.

[lowGuido]

I want to say that its a low voltage cutoff related thing. I cant be 100% sure, but I can say that any time I changed the voltage cutoff to anything other than default it didn’t work for me. so I just leave it default.

[TeslaAlex]

@Clonkex

I wonder if @TeslaAlex may be thinking he’s changing settings on the ESC but not succeeding?

I was afraid of this as well. To eliminate this risk, I changed the throttle limit to 50%, just to see if I really was getting any new settings, which I was.

I´ll try to turn off the voltage cutoff when I get home and see if I get any different results.

[TeslaAlex]

@lowGuido

I have only ever used the 150A version though so I imagine that it could be an initial current draw too large for the ESC and some sort of protection. you could try setting your punch to low.

I plugged in a Multimeter to my setup to check both amp-draw and lowest voltage. Neither of those values were a problem. I think I reached about 50A at most.

[TeslaAlex]

Too Many Amps or voltage cutoff?

[TeslaAlex]

IT WORKS!!!

I removed the voltage cutoff and it works! I dont get thrown off the board, no matter how hard I accellerate!

Im so frickin happy, been trying to solve this for months!

I feel kinda stupid though that I did not try it before

Thanks for your help guys!

@Clonkex you gotta try it!

[Clonkex]

I’ll do it first thing tomorrow morning!! Definitely have to get a voltmeter though haha, don’t want to overdischarge my batteries!

[Strassa]

Sorry to revive this old post but my problem is excatly the same as mentioned in the thread.

My HK X-Car Beast 120A ESC also shuts off when accelerating hard/climbing a hill. It also makes a wierd noise and I also can continue my ride on the fly (no restart or anything). I disabled Low Voltage Cutoff, but without success.

@Clonkex have you fixed your problem in any way? It cannot be the motor pulley that slips, right?

Thanks for helping, was reading this forum for a long time now and just decided to make an account to ask you guys this question