Motor spinning on own help please

YESS Hello have allmost finished my build after months of waiting i just got the batteries they were not fully changed but at the same voltage 3.8, i have downloaded the bldc tool for the vesc but i believe it doesnt work with my esc i have the torque boards 120amp esc for 12s and i connected in to the bldc and it says connected for a second and then says firmware not detected , second i have checked all cables and everything everything is fine but when i insert my loop key my motors dont respond at all , then after a few seconds (10) i just move it back and foward the controll and then one motor starts spining and then stops and then they both start spining on there own . i dont know whats wrong can somehelp

heres a video showing the problem

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alrighty, it’s hard to see with that lighting but I have some ideas. That looks like a car ESC; unless that’s a VESC then you’ll need an programming card for it. Are you not using a car ESC programming card or am I mistaken?

I’m guessing that your PPM is off because your motors aren’t going into full throttle (and you’re still able to control it), meaning that the resting position for your remote is actually telling the ESC to give the motors some juice. Not sure how to fix that on the car ESCs, but I’ll try to look around.

The pause from connecting the anti-spark plug -> motors spinning is pretty normal (the ESC has to boot, just like any other computer / microcontroller).

I am using this exact esc diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-12s-120a-car-esc-opto-hv/ Also one of them has a ubec soderd onto the cable and to connoted the cables for remotes it’s two y connectors into one ,I do have the programming box thing I programmed them both to exact everything but am very limited on what I can program , I used this vidoe as a guide https://youtu.be/M-Q4oku_LPk

hmm, what’s the ‘firmware not detected’ error you were getting earlier? Sorry for my confusion but your first post you mentioned both the VESC and your car ESC.

I’d click "connect " on the bldc program and I’d say connected and then I forgot because I did it hours ago and am not home but would say something like “firmware not recongonized"or " firmware error” the esc programming card has a USB to connect to computer is what it says advertised but didn’t connect

Seems like everything is connected correctly if the motors spin. Torque boards 12s esc’s can only be programmed with the programming card. The problem you have is you have to get another remote that has a trimming function on it. Either get the hkgt2b or the mini. Both have trim adjustments. Once adjusted it will stop the motors from spinning when remote is turned on.

Whatttt I have to buy another remote boi… are you sure it’s the remote , the remote was quite exspensive … I have enertions new remote what I heard there pretty reliable for small remotes unlike the rest that’s why I went with them …

Yes, you have to get another remote. I had the same problem using torqueboards 12s esc and paired with the nano style remote. I ended up getting the hkgt2b in a modded master cho case.The nano style remotes don’t have a trim function. Your cheapest most reliable option is getting the mini style remote. They can be found on eBay for around $20.

This is ESC and bldc tool is made for VESC (vedders esc) so you can’t program that hv opto with bldc tool.

Can you confirm the remote theory I feel bummed I wasted 100$ on a remote I can use :frowning:

There is a neutral position setting on those esc’s. You could try setting it to the largest number. I think it’s 9 or 7 can’t remember off the top. This should make the neutral point a bit bigger and might stop the motor spinning on startup. Also with the nano-x you need to set the end points every time you turn it on. Turn the remote on first then move to full throttle then full brake a few times and then turn on the board. Not sure if any of this will help, but I hope it does.

Good luck.

Hey yes I did that and it worked BUT FOR ONE THE MOTORS ONLY , I thought it was the motor or connection or something but it I checked every cable and connection side and everything the same , so I switched esc and then the other motor was fine but it switched I have narrowed it down by that to the esc but I have already put that nuetral range to 9% here’s a vidoe https://youtu.be/9YnYWWa7l1g

I’m running DIY VESC with an sk3 6374 6s 5000 mah zippy and my motor started spinning/stuttering on its own. It was working just fine for about 6 miles or so. No DRV errors no loose connections. Help!! Note. YES I have used the search functions.

Controller maybe it’s the controller like the issue I had the vesc that you probably got like one of mine is very sensitive and having a controller like from torqemboards or enertion that are not spring loaded are making your motor spin get the gt2b and yes I left a 110$ remote for a 20$ one but it works so hey give it a go

Couldn’t I just reprogram neutral position in BLDC Tool if that was the case?

@torqueboards hey could anyone chime in here? Motornisnspinning onnitsnown in neutral position all of a sudden. I’m using your guys’ nano remote and VESC. Could I just program a new neutral position in BLDC? If so how would I do that? If I pull SLIGHTLY back it stops. But when I let go, white light indicating signal input turn on, on VESC and motor spins :frowning:

As I said it’s either the remote or the vesc or a combination of both like mine my vesc is at max neutral range would work for a bit then motor start spinning on its on, you probably got a sensitive vesc and need a spring loaded remote that is not like enertion or torqueboards get a mini or gt2b cheap 20$ and test it yourself

@StormTrooperBert i had similar “thing” when i first connected, remote (I have Alien Power remote) to the VESC.

If you have VESC, and you use PPM control mode, you can adjust the throttle in the PPM Tab in BLDC tool.

The guy in THIS Youtube Video explain how to adjust throttle range in BLDC tool.

When i did that, my motor didnt spin anymore on its own.

Thank you I’ll definitely give this a try. I’m just in denial that I would have to all of a sudden replace my $60 perfectly functioning remote. Ive ridden this setup for miles with zero issues. I hope it’s a just a matter of neutral position recalibration. Thanks you both! Will update once looked into.