Hi Technotron:
My water/dust resistant observations were based on the V2 which was described as waterproof but was wide open to water and dust. When you swap your board, please take pictures of any dust/dirt on the board so that these can be shared with Jason.
I just wanted to say, Good Luck. We are all counting on you.
Update: a little delay on my end… DHL want me to pay almost 65 EUR custom fees for the circuit board. Not happening! Contacted Monica and she says she will get back to me tomorrow… God I hate DHL 
So far all the plastic panel over the circuit board on my drives has cracks on them. I don’t over tighten any of them, that plastic is just too weak. My V3 came with cracks on them. So no amount of sealant would help if the plastic doesn’t hold up.
honestly I don’t care for waterproofing as water and skating don’t work well together anyway, but over time, dust would be a problem
Good point on the circuit board cover Mike. The ABS is extremely brittle. I think an aluminum cover plate would be far more effective and durable.
I’ll be more specific on my dust/water concerns. I’m not asking to go boarding in a thunderstorm. This is more about routine contact with dust and incidental contact with some moisture one the road.
The opening for the wires is wide open. There is no rubber boot, seal or grommet. Dust from the wheels shoots directly at the opening which sends dust straight into the circuit board compartment and even more directly at the back side of the battery contacts. If you hit a moist spot on the road then moisture and dust both get fired into the compartment. Just one splash frm an unexpected puddle could coat the back side of the battery contacts with droplets. Its a short circuit risk.
I’ve seen plenty of dust migrate around the battery and coat the entire battery bay. similarly, I’ve seen substantial dust on the circuit board.
I noticed these dust problems with the hybrid board that I built using a broken V2 --replacing the hub motors with gear driven 6355’s from DIY electric.
To be fair, the dust was actually the early spring road salt and the salt did more damage to the motors than the circuit board. My point is that there are many spaces for dust/moisture to enter. It might happen in one day in unfair conditions like road salt, or over a few months in favorable conditions.
I think the three of us agree that dust/moisture resistance is important.
Also, the Landwheel literature claims that the landwheel is
“Dual brushless in-wheel motor-2*1100w, water and dust proof (IP65)”.
and
“Newest waterproof wireless remote control electric skateboard original from Landwheel”
If customers think that the unit is designed for wet roads and they use it for that purpose then the outcome will be costly in terms of warranty replacements and reputation.
Yes, I informed Jason and also sent him a picture of dust accumulating behind the battery after every single ride. This could really end badly for unaware customers.
I also forwarded him this of idea of implementing a USB port in the next drive revision. Either on the side with a rubber seal of sorts, or behind the battery (which will hopefully be truly IP65 in the future). The benefits should be clear for both Landwheel and their customers: faster implementation of new (proprietary) software/firmware updates with new functionality, reduced shipping and replacement parts… I think it would be a small thing to implement but huge for customers and serviceability.
Agreed. On both points.
Also, note that the dust infiltration into the battery cavity gives only a hint of what is happening inside the electronics compartment. The infiltration happens from all directction. From the battery compartment. From the motor wire portal, even from the back side of the landwheel around the entire perimeter of the neoprene pad. Be sure to take some pictures for Jason when you swap your board.
An alternative to the USB port might be a bluetooth connection to a phone app.
Bluetooth would be a great alternative and definitely solves the waterproofing issue for that particular port. As long as Bluetooth works reliably (which I think is still an issue at times).
OK so I received my revised circuit board today. I replaced the board, put the lid back on, put the first screw back in and… yup, cracked the lid on one corner. The plastic is definitely too brittle. I agree that a metal lid would be better, they would have to insulate the bottom though with some coating or rubber because of the circuit board underneath.
So the big elephant in the room. Brakes. Right? The gist of it: they work better, definitely not as harsh and sudden at lower speeds. At higher speeds, I still find them a bit too strong and not gradual enough, but they are usable. I think they are a step in the right direction and will be usable with more practice. I am very interested to hear what Mike and Pkasanda have to say about them, I obviously have to test them more thoroughly for a final conclusion.
Hi Fred,
We appreciated for all your supports and feedback on our products, we will continue to work hard towards a best products for you guys.
Landwheel
On my Loaded Vanguard, the brakes actually feel a lot better, perhaps due to the weight distribution. Anyhow it’s pissing outside, but tomorrow I should get around to more testing
Update: wanted to take my shiny new Vanguard deck for a spin earlier on, but my motors stopped working. Put the old circuit board back in and same… unit turns on and I get the synchronization beeps from the remote. Battery level is showing on remote and all, but no response from motors.
Needless to say I am very unhappy with this… anyone else encounter this yet?
I had a similar issue. It might be that your on/off button on the motor/battery module is stuck on?
I just modded mine with a waterproof push to make button and even put an o-ring between it and the casing.
Not sure about more budget decks, my opinion is that you should not cheap out on the deck. I tried 10 different ones and the Icarus just felt amazing, I get on it every day and know that I made the right choice. If all my electronics go to shit I’ve still got a weapon of a board which holds it second hand value too.
While this is a drop through deck I didn’t mount in that way, just the normal way. No disassembly required although that’s a mod I’d like to try at some point, but that would require some pretty lengthy modding, at that stage I’d use a whole new motor/ VESC/ battery setup.
I weigh 73kg’s and that was on smooth tarmac.
+1 longer kingpin bolts!
100mm-110 mm wheels would be delicious. It would also increase the top speed in low speed mode pretty much negating the need to use the higher speed mode, which is just straight up crazy - mainly due to the way it cuts the power randomly (I’ve yet to work out if it’s a component overheating or battery BMS cutting back)
As for braking, I should add that after lots of testing I much prefer the handling of the drive when it’s front mounted but the braking really is quite scary even though I’ve got pretty good at it. In rear wheel drive configuration hard braking causes a little bit of slipping which reduces the severity thus making it more controlled.
The real issue for me with the braking is the delay. When you know you need to brake its all good, but when a car door opens in your face the delay is the difference between your board braking or your bones.
Cheers. Ended up getting the Vanguard deck from the pics above. Loving it! Just wish I could use my drive…
Update 2: my drive doesn’t even turn on anymore and there is a nasty spark when connecting either battery. Trying to resolve this now with Landwheel, will keep you posted.
Mike, Navagor, Technotron:
I have tested both the V4 and the V4 with the re-programmed circuit board. I have asked Jason to invite the four of us to a private chat so that we can review the results privately and to collaborate outside the public forums.
Hopefully, Jason will follow-up with an invitation.
Thanks pk
Good idea…
I also forwarded the idea of starting a private group.
They are replacing my Landwheel drive, returning my faulty unit later today.
