N.E.S.E / NESE - No solder module battery packs

No, wire to the out ±.

The out + and - only was pushing 4.12v where as these terminals we’re pushing 5

Because it’s 5v from usb it’s not gonna know when to stop. That PCB step down 5V from usb to 1s charge voltage.

I can’t just watch it and stop it at 4.18 or so?

Then you will have to watch it.

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Checking it every damn minute until it matches the others. Thanks again for the tip on the charger board :ok_hand:much appreciated

If I were you I’d check the cells in the last group. Decent chance there’s a bad cell in that group, no? NESE gives you the option to test each cell.

The cells are brand new and we’re all tested for voltage before putting them in the packs. Literally never used this pack yet. I doubt there is a bad cell. I just think I had a faulty BMS hooked up to it when I first built it, and a resistor drained that group a bit.

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The pack is now balanced. Every group is at 4.17-4.18

Will bad cells not hold a charge on their own?

I was concerned because .1v drop across 4 parallel cells while doing nothing is quite a lot. Are you hooking up that red BMS again to confirm?

I’m concerned personally because I have 2 of those BMS waiting for builds. :slight_smile:

It’s a 3p pack. Maybe that p group just has a bad cell. Time will tell. I doubt it’s the BMS since it was low before I received this BMS

wait so were the cells all at the same voltage when you got them, then on first charge group charged slower? Hmm. Equal chance on weak cell, dodgy balance wiring, or dodgy bms…

I had this pack assembled differently before with a different BMS but did not end up using it. I charged it once with that other BMS and then it had been sitting. I recently reassembled the modules to a brick like this for a top mount build and upon checking the voltages, this one p group was low yes.

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@agniusm, I upgraded my ender3 to BGM+E3DV6 direct drive setup. Since you have direct drive too and get such clean prints I was wondering what is your

  1. Print temperature
  2. Retraction distance
  3. Retraction speed
  4. Retraction prime speed

For PETG. Thanks so much.

Whats your slicer? Mine has linear rails on x and y.

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linear rails make a lot of difference. I am looking at it for my CNC, never though on a 3d printer but indeed the principle is the same.

Linear rails would improve the dimensional accuracy for sure, but didn’t realize it would have that much effect on visual quality. When you changed over to rails, what was the biggest advantage that you saw?

I am using Cura. I am having a bit of blobbing. I currently have:

  1. print temp 245C
  2. Retraction Distance: 0.2mm
  3. Retraction speed: 60mm/sec
  4. Retraction print speed: 40mm/sec
  5. Coasting enabled
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Use Slic3r PE (prusa edition) image image image image image image

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Hey, do you print out of a Prusa? Thanks for the settings! I’m gonna be printing the cases (was gonna use the CR10s pro, but now will use the PRUSA instead) soon so this will be useful.