NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system

This is a new thread on NESE no solder battery system. All important information will be updated on this first topic and following topics by subject.

  • NESE is no solder, weld-less solution to build batteries using 18650 format cells
  • NESE system requires only phillips screwdriver to be assembled
  • 20S battery could be assembled in less than an hour
  • NESE system delivers highest power output with tested 200A continues
  • Flexible with mounting and developing accessories
  • Durable
  • Available are these configurations:
    • 2P, 2S2P
    • 3P, 2S3P
    • 4P, 2S4P
    • 5P
    • 6P
    • 7P
    • 8P
    • DieBieMS enclosure

200A test on NESE module in vibrating enviroment:

Assembling NESE modules:

Cutting NESE tabs:

Inside NESE module:

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Some of the arrangement variants:

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ORDERING: Visit www.18650.lt or www.1865o.com to purchase Your own NESE system! Get in contact on: [email protected] or call +37065753232 (engish, russian, lithuanian)

Other colors available at request (extra charge):

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Old thread is here

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Wiring NESE into battery (will be updated with info)

BMS/PCM and all other related goodies (will be updated with info)

Thanks to @mishrasubhransu for lots of work done on NESE. Here is hes DieBieMS bus bar folding guide: image

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New @mishrasubhransu DieBieMS variant:

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Simple wiring diagram (might not be applicable to all BMS’s/PCM’s

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Customer wiring diagram:

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BMS and PCM enclosure will be uploaded to thingiverse, here supplied cad files and stl for the boards i own.

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Mounting NESE modules (will be updated with info)

@mishrasubhransu solution mounting NESE modules:

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My latest proposition mounting NESE modules with M3 threaded rod:

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Double-Tape-VHB-3M Modules could also be mounted using advanced doublesided tapes. 3M has good range. I have tested 3M VHB tapes and they have very strong bond. Its used on trailers instead of rivets as it is stronger. I had to use full body strenght to get one 20x40mm magnet off. Read manufacturers data sheets before purchase paying extra attention to holding force. This is most simple no brainer solution. It gives some cushioning as well. I would give it first place in recommending to mount the modules. Here is a video on strength of the tape:

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FAQ (will be updated with info)

Build photos (will be updated with info)

What customers say about NESE system (will be updated with info)

Check the SURVEY

Jehu Garcia:

From Dean (mUVe3D, https://www.muve3d.net/press/)

“Hardware sets fit into printed cases very well. Used PETG for my cases, about 30-40 so far and they work great for e-bikes and other portable power needs. They also pack well in heat shrink after completing full packs for high durability and water resistance.”

“Great quality and super durable for an e-bike build. Have great output using solid batteries, no issues putting lots of amps through the system.”

tonystark20 (ES forum, https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=97601&p=1463326&hilit=nese#p1463326)

"NESE hands down. 100% better. The vruzend might have its place but overall not sold on its quality / durability long term. The hardware on them breaks way to easily. I managed to assembled all 40 modules (8 cells each) in less time than the 30 cell 12v battery. Having printed these modules in ABS following the recommended settings on your website I can say that they went together with no issues, (snug but in a good way) I will likely end up changing the 3s 10p battery for a 4s 8p NESE system. "

Alexandre (https://efoil.builders/t/very-slow-build-from-france/883/257):

"My main concern with the battery built was continious max amp draw

I wanted to use full cooper , N.E.S.E are well designed , not worried about amp draw , this built with 24 modules could support 400A , but it is mainly depending on cells temp : Max around 70c… So 30q or vtc6"

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very nese.

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For anybody seeing this thread for the first time: These are worth the price, especially since the designs are open source and can be printed at home. If you want a solderless kit, use this. I spent a year playing with other kits until I finally decided to throw down the money on these, and it was worth it.

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Just a question is says it uses star screws, but they all appear to be Philips or a cross in the pictures

I’m assuming you aren’t using torqx bits?

Yes, its phillips. Was in a hurry writing up and translated word by word :slight_smile:

BTW @mishrasubhransu, have you tried settings i posted earlier?

I was doing some work in TPU, but soon I’ll try them. I’ll post the results here.

BTW, checkout the flexible battery pack like you did with the m3 threaded rods. I put 3mm carbon fiber rod which fits snugly into cylindrical hole positioned at the middle of the box(not edges). It think it’s going to turn out nice. image image image image

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I think its next simplest way of mounting. You can take 2 or 3 aluminium angles and drill them to match nese holes and 2 for mounting on the board. Then all ot takes is to unscrew 4 nuts to take it apart. And its tidy, and it will flex with the board. Only i would mount it lid up for durability but it might be alright lid down as well

I’m interested in cell level fusing, is this possible with the nese?

Do you have the outer dimention for that 10s5p holder (not counting the tabs)? I want a reference for a project of my own. Thanks!

Reposting for new thread: Is there any clear reason why this battery would only output 25v despite battery-to-battery being 52v? I’ve since replaced the single positive terminal ring with two using 10awg wire, still not enough power output. It’d have to be the BMS, right? It was pulled from a battery that hasn’t worked in some time so I am unsure if it works completely.

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Have you even thought about it? It feels like movement for unnecessary complication. i’ll explain, again. Tesla does it, cause there are ~7000 whatever cells in their battery pack. Internal short, that fuse would help in safety would be in one over a million cells. For Tesla, one burned family in 143 cars i a huge liability, that’s why they use it. Few tens of cells on the board is nothing. Its a hype. But i could make it, it would be larger

Check your wiring. You have 12 balance wires. Most of the time 12S would have 13 wires. If its 12 wire PCM, connect correct charger. Sometimes protection kicks in and PCM needs to be reactivated. Connect charger for short while, disconnect and check your voltage. Tahe a photo of PCM front as well if above did not help. If you have 52V on the battery terminals its def PCM, either wrong wiring or faulty unit

It has 13 balance wires, it’s just hard to tell from the photo. Each is connected in order to the positive terminal of it’s number, charger doesn’t seem to fix the issue. I suspect that I overvolted the BMS at some point. I’ll replace that. Thanks.

1 Like