New to Making a DIY electric skateboard, got a part list down. Is this good for the budget or quality?

Hi there. So I’ve been doing research and fully decided to make my first ever DIY electric skateboard. I’ve got experience with making decks so I’ll be making my own custom pintail longboard deck. I got no idea how to solder but I’ll be down to learn if someone knows how to explain it well. I’ve already ordered the motor and the screws that were recommended for it. What I want to get out of this board is 10 miles or more and a top speed of 25 mph

Parts list:

Motor: FlipSky 6374 190kv motor

ESC: Flipsky FSESC 4.12 50A

Pulley: vanpro

Anti Spark Switch: Flipsky Electric Skateboard Anti Spark Switch 280A Pro

Remote: VX1

Motor mount, I saw one on Amazon but the reviews were iffy with the product bending after a few uses, any recommended brand for caliper trucks?

Battery I have no clue which to get, (any battery makers please message me, on a budget so best price will work)

I know to connect everything I’ll need male and female connectors which I’ll probably have to solder, it’ll be my first time. Tips will be appreciated, so far these parts are perfect for my budget but if you find something better or something about the parts list I should know, don’t hesitate to tell me. Want to make this a decent build- correction, best build :smirk:

What country are you in?

I’m in Illinois

Tell us about your enclosure.

I’m planning on making one, either out of wood and just painting it, I’m gonna make it slick so it goes with the board and isn’t to big. I think it’s the most easiest option, I could put my own holes for the power button and hopefully when the battery comes it would have a charger, my main problem is a battery rn

I disagree, I think enclosure is the biggest problem but you don’t know it yet. I wish someone told me that years ago when I was at your stage.

I would solve that first, then start the battery search. Look at batteries to know approximate sizes and leave extra room but I wouldn’t buy much at all until you get deck and enclosure sorted.

Also, fiberglass is your friend.


I think it would just be best if I buy a enclosure. For the battery, I’ve been told to just find someone that makes them and negotiate prices. The ESC has a maximum voltage of 10s, I was considering to go 12 but then again I don’t wanna toast the ESC, asking from perspective, did you solder for your first time, if so was it easy?

I’ve already been soldering for 30 years before I built an esk8. But in general, if you can’t or won’t learn how to solder, I would stick to prebuilts. It’s not really that hard; there are plenty of guides out there. Practice on scrap stuff, not your esk8 parts. Buy extra connectors.

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Yea, I’ve been watching solder tutorials all day. Seems simple, someone was explaining it to me and it sounds easy, I think I got this, plus It’s good to learn new things in my opinion, based on what I see soldering doesn’t look hard at all, just have to be neat with it and not doing some shitty messy solder

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Just remember there are two main roles for the solder.

First, the PARTS need to melt the solder, not the iron. This is critical for a good joint. But, air doesn’t transmit heat very well. So, melting some solder on the iron and touching the part, can be a very good way to get the part hot. But don’t confuse the two… solder melted with the iron is not going to do a good job of connecting the parts, only making them hot.

That’s the main advice I can give you besides tinning. Tin the wire, tin the connector, then stick them together with a tiny bit more solder.

Tinning is making each part hot and putting solder on it first before you join the two things.

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What would you tin first, the wire or the connector. I know for the wire, tinning it makes the solder go in more for a better connection, so the wire would be the first to be tinned, then do the connector and put it together? I don’t have the device that they set it on to solder so would vice grips work or since it would be cold, it’ll mess up everything. Hot and cold don’t mix

I don’t think it matters much which is first, but keep a spare connector of the opposite gender plugged into it — that way the pins don’t bend while it’s all melty.

Oh yea, I forgot about that. A guy I was watching said the same thing. For the solder what would you recommend me getting, one from Amazon or a hardware store like Home Depot?

Home Depot is a shit place unless you are hammering wood together or painting. Nobody has told them about the metric system yet, for starters…

Something like this is fine, just don’t get lead-free solder. Especially if you’re not a professional at soldering.

Alright appreciate it. And do the same for the soldering iron as well?

Also another question, what kind of loctite should I get for motor mounts and mounting the motor? And for screwing the enclosure on

I personally prefer Loctite 290 which can be applied before or after assembly.

There are a lot of folks who use other kinds though, almost exclusively the kinds that must be applied before assembly. Maybe someone else can chime in.

You don’t need a huge 50ml bottle.

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You think for the budget my parts list is good? Just asking for confirmation since their already ordered and have time, ok thanks for the recommendation

Was looking on Amazon for soldering irons and came across this one, would this be good to solder with?

Ive got a similar Iron. Good stuff, cheap. REMEMBER, when soldering, the solder runs to the highest heat. SO, use the position of iron, to coax the solder thru, where you want it. DONT rely on gravity. Also, if there is ANY difficulty whatsoever, use flux. And use flux that doesnt go acid later. You are not finished soldering, till touching the solder to YOUR PIECE, melts it.

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