Also another question. For the anti spark switch would I need to solder these on there, all tho I have no idea how to solder it, how difficult is it if I would have to?
Hi,
I am an Electronic Engineer for 15 years, so my view of soldering is probably not fair.
It’s harder to solder big cables, as you need more heat, so your first solder being your main power connection isn’t ideal, but certainly possible.
If you have not done wiring/soldering before, I suggest you get advice/support in this area, as someone with the experience and tools can do it quickly and easily and save you lots of pain (well burned finger tips mostly)
I suggest you at this point contact Duck Battery and talk to him about the battery Build, he may include a Anti-Spark connector into the wiring for you. There are several other trusted battery suppliers for esk8s in the US if that doesn’t work out.
He could likely supply you a battery with the connectors ready to go, so you don’t have to do so much wiring/soldering (Like the Etsy ones you found), except less likely to have problems.
Thanks for the info, I was watching tutorials and it seems pretty easy to learn, for the soldering to the connectors you have to make sure that it fits flush with the plugs and soldering it really well, taking time on it so the connection is very solid and won’t disconnect. I was directed to getting lead solder, the guy I was watching the tutorial on was detailed with the explanation, even if I end up not doing it. I know some people that are experienced in that field of work. For the battery my only concern is the price. I know my ESC can handle up to 10s, I think, Im not sure but I think it’s best if I do a 10s. I’ll try to negotiate a price that’s decent for my budget
10S will be fine for you. I recommend you start here, it is fast enough to have lots of fun. This will make it a bit cheaper too.
Soldering is not hard, but it is a skill, so you can do it better, practice on smaller wires/connectors first.
Making sure both sides are at high enough temperature so the solder ‘flows’ onto both is very important. It should be smooth and shiny at the end, not blobby and dull, this will give you a good connections. Lead solder is lower temperature and less brittle, so I also recommend this.
‘Tinning’ big wire is important, this will help it to be strong before you connect the two pieces.
Use heat-shrink tube to cover the connections after soldering, this makes it safer and stronger.
Ok that’s good, what kind of mileage and speed would you expect that I get with the motor I have, 4.12 ESC and a 10s battery? if I’m correct, tinning is where you cut a bit off the end of the big wire so it can connect better to the connector. I went to my local Home Depot today to scout out some solders, would you recommend getting one from Home Depot or somewhere else like Amazon? Also today I ordered the rest of my parts, the Flipsky motor supports 15T, 8mm small pulley, if I’m correct. That’s just what I read, which I found a kit for on Amazon last second before ordering, even had enough to get some cool headlights and taillights for night riding. Last question, which I appreciate you helping me by the way, I have caliber trucks and I found this mount, I know you have to add lock tight so the bolts won’t get loose while riding. Is this good? It’s by boardnamics
Tinning is where you heat the wire and add solder all round it before you try to attach it to the connector.
The two things that affect your range are: Wheels and Battery Capacity (Series x Parallel x Cell capacity).
The things that affect your speed are: Series Cells, Motor kV & Gearing to road.
This will help you estimate your speed: http://calc.esk8.it/
Mileage is dependent on the user and how they ride, you will get ‘up to 10 miles’ with 10s2p, but that is probably on a good day, and wind in your face, or getting a bit silly with the throttle will reduce that.
If you can fit/afford a 10S3P pack, you will be happier than a 2P, as that extra 50% range will make a difference. The additional cost in battery may seem large, but it is small compared to the full build and range is awesome.
You could use a heat gun to heat up the solder before adding it to the connectors or something else? 10s3P might be the best bet, I can see if I can negotiate a price with duck batteries whenever they get back to me for a decent price. Just checked the calculator and wow. Max speed is 25 or 30. Also figured I would need wheels as well, does 90 mm work? I would have to get riser pads
It’s not the solder you are heating, it is the wire. Solder melts at >250 degC. You cannot heat everything up to that without melting plastic, etc.
So when you solder, you try to be quick, so the metal is 300-450degC and solder is done before the plastic starts to melt.
You can ‘warm’ everything with a heatgun, this helps if you hold the connector in a vice, as the cold vice will make the wire harder to heat up.
The process is:
Add a small amount of solder to the Iron.
Hold it on the wire you are a soldering,
When it’s hot enough you can touch solder on the wire and it get’s sucked it. (do not add it to the Iron).
Rotate and cover the wire in solder.
Now, hold the ‘tinned wire’ to the connector.
Start to heat the connector pin, then the wire, then get the soldering iron between the two.
You should see the solder flow (like liquid) between both parts.
Remove Iron and leave to cool naturally.
Tips: If you are too slow and there is no more Flux (smoke coming from iron / dull grey joints.) Add some extra solder from the roll.
Less solder is better - Use it like glue to join the two conductors, solder is soft, it is not structural.
Clean the iron - Keep it fresh, wipe clean regularly during use (on a wet sponge or other cleaner. you don’t relly want solder that’s been on there for more than 30 seconds, fresh stuff melts better.
Accept defeat - Sometimes a wire is just a dick, the plastic melts, the strands separate, this makes it harder. Know when to cut off an inch and try again.
In answer to your other question… Yes All wheel sizes will work, as long as they don’t hit your deck when you turn. 
Damn, yea that’s what I meant, the solder tins the wire lmao. To make it simple, you solder the wire first before the connector, you solder all around so it distributes evenly into the wire for a stronger connection so it’s prepped and ready to go then you solder the connector and put them together fast, soldering them together solid and it won’t disconnect, did I get it right? 
Yup. Sounds like you’ll be fine.
I appreciate your help a ton. I was so confused on what to get and afraid of the build being a mess and fucking something up. For getting a soldering iron, should I get one from Amazon, I’ve seen some where you can up the temp, the Home Depot ones I’m iffy about cuz, let’s be honest those kind of stores don’t have the best quality and don’t do what it says on the box
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Food containers…? He gotta be more creative then that I already got my enclosure ordered and will modify it with ports that are necessary
DO NOT upgrade AFTER yadda yadda. Build it RIGHT. The first time. That is why we are here.
I’m building a 4WD electric board with my sons. We have all the parts (lingyi esc - does anyone know if these pcb’s have a CAN bus connection and IF SO, where is it on the board?).
Because I can’t confirm if there’s a CAN bus on the 2 lingyi esc’s, I plan to:
- remove 1 esc and save as a backup
- wire wheels 3 and 4 into wheels 1 and 2
- splice the HALL sensor wires from #3 into #1 and sensor from #4 into wheel sensor #2.
- Splice the extra battery parallel to the original battery.
So, should have 8 mah capacity in the energy department.
QUESTION: (can’t find anything on web search) Is it bad to combine the hall sensor wires from 2 separate wheels into 1 plug connector?
I’ve seen most examples of the HALL sensors just being disconnected BUT I’d prefer to have the 4 sensors online if possible.
Thanks