Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Hybrid in what sense? Have 1 motor run sensored while the other motor doesnā€™t? Or do you mean hybrid mode in the VESC. When I say you should use sensors, I mean you should use hybrid mode if you have a VESC.

If youā€™re using a car ESC, running sensors at high speeds is inefficient and leaves your motors pretty toasty. Iā€™d recommend running sensorless if youā€™re using a standard car ESC.

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Yeah, meant hybrid mode. Thanks!

I found these VESCs on eBay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/322314183718

The price is right, but do they look legit?

How hard would it be to upgrade them with chakas special components?

looks alright. Get in touch with him through ebay to get his forum name, should be on here somewhere. Also from Germany

Apparently theyā€™re from Maytech. I need to cut costs somewhere thoughā€¦

Personally I wouldnā€™t cut costs on the VESC. Iā€™d cut on the deck, wheels, trucks, and maybe motors. Specifically to the Maytech VESC, itā€™s not that much cheaper and thereā€™s been some bad feedback with them.

From my understanding, this switch has 4 prongs. How does it wire? Iā€™ve only ever used 2 prong switches and 3 prong lit switch.

probably the best way is you get one of @B4Me vesc. He is currently working on them and is located in the EU. He does these things for a living and uses the upgraded components.

Also heĀ“s cheaper then everyone else with vescs.

you use switches with an antispark kit. You cant simply put it in between the wires in our high current board systems.

The ESC switch of a HK Car esc doesnā€™t output a huge current if Iā€™m correct so should be fine. I wanna replace the ESC switch(red and white),

[ignore the reset wire (black), I donā€™t throttle calibrate often once its set.]

You should tell us for what you need the switch. Then we can give you a better answer.

Yes, if you want to replace the stock button of the ESC you could use the shown switch. But i do not know for sure

that should probably work if you just use it for your esc, just donĀ“t use it to break the battery circuit! also you should maintain the calibrate button, because youĀ“ll probably lose connection a few times, thatĀ“s when youĀ“ll need it :wink:

Thanks for all the reply and concerns as to what Iā€™m doing with the switchā€¦ Now my question remains, how do I wire this up? x) Thanks

Ignore my previous question of 4 prongs, the one I just ordered is 5 prong and this is what it looks like.

The 12v battery is only to power the LED on the switch. (NOT FOR THE ESC AT ALL)

The 12v battery goes to + and - on the switch. Two of the three wires from the esc should go to NO and C.

Thank you so much. When it arrives I shall give it a go.

I am certainly not sure if my explanation is correctā€¦ I just got told that it should work like this.

When i try out a switch i dont solder the cables in the beginning. i just hold the cables against the prongs and test it out. when i have the desired wiring i will solder it for the longterm.

I seeā€¦ However, you said that the battery goes straight to + and - but wouldnā€™t that just keep the switch LED ON all the time? I think one of the positive or negatives of the battery leads should go into another so that when the button is pressed in, only then will the LED turn on.

You are right. I thought about getting the 12V from the ESC somewhere.

Im planning on building a Mountain board next year.

With 2 of this battery:

(Or this but more expensive:)

Together with this esc: http://www.voelkner.de/products/182335/Roxxy-Blcontrol-9100-12-Opto.html

With 170 kv 3200w Motors

Do you guys think this will work well? I never used Lipos and im a bit afraid of them :sweat_smile:

This thread is just perfect for this questions. No need to start a new thread everytime someone has just a small question like this.

looks good!