Official TRAMPA DIY build thread - Street and Urban Carve

Hi E-Skate addicts,

this is the official TRAMPA DIY thread showing how we build our own boards for our personal private use. Basically I want to build a Urban/Street Carver with the battery box below the deck, 11S4P, single 118KV motor and VESC 6. I don’t want the Battery Box to affect the flex and I want the board to take me pretty far. I made a simple model from cardboard to proof that the slitting pattern, I want to cut into our super sturdy fibre reinforced battery boxes, works. These are made of the same material we use for our unbreakable decks. Its a impact resistant material, not splitting apart, whatever you do. Pretty good to protect 18650 lithium cells! Ted and I always said we need something sturdy rather than an enclosure being more or less a protection against water, dirt and critical looks. So we invested into a mould to make these super sturdy panels, which are pretty generic (shape wise) and can be used with all sorts of skate decks.

The downside is that they do not like to bend into the curve of our MTBs and Carve Boards. So I will show you how to tweak them.

This post will always be updated, so keep an eye on the first post if you can. I will try to use only basic tools and I will show exactly (down to the detail) how to achieve what we achieved.

We will build up an Urban Carver first. I will start using this delicious board:

First thing we will do is is having a look at my cardboard model. Two slit patterns will allow the box to flex up and down and will release all the strain from the material while bending.

Now we try to replicate that, using our 70cm long Battery Box Panel, 4 or 5 Ply:

The following images will show how to cut the box precisely. I made a tool from old chunks of wood to do the Job:

Before cutting the first Slits we drill the 6mm holes, we want the slit to end in. I start using a 2mm drill and follow with a 6mm drill, then use a sinker to smoothen the edges. As you can see my Battery Box looks quite terrible on the inside. This is a single side moulded prototype and not the nice and need one you will get (shown below).

I only cut the short slits for the now, since I want to try out how the battery box will perform without the other slits. I took a 35° Holy Pro to give it a try:

If you want to build a Mountainboard with a stiff deck, I would only cut the slits on the side. We want to try out how our cardboard model will perform in real world, so I will continue and finish the job.

Works a treat!

lets fit the box to the deck! I pre-drilled some 2mm pilot holes in the edges of the box to transfer the hole position to the deck accurately. A Trampa under board vinyl sticker sits waiting to be attached to this beauty.

This is the best method to ad in nice stainless threads into your deck. We want M4 repair threads! I use a drop of epoxy glue to secure them in the deck. Do not apply the grip tape untill you have finished off your entire board! Its the last thing to do!

Now we want to close off the ends of the box and ad in a silicone membrane against dust and water. We cut up a 16 Ply 35° long to show a section of the deck-battery-box assembly. God forgive us!

I use the following materials to continue my work on the box and the battery pack. You can buy everything here: Great shop having almost everything you can imagine.

I use the double side sticky 2mm neoprene foam to stick the l-profile to the deck. Sticks to your board like xxxx to a blanket! That 10mm neoprene strip is glued with Pattex.

Still waiting for my LG Cells to arrive (need 20 more to make the 11S4P Pack). So lets use the time and work on the 118KV Trampa E-Skate Motor. Its expensive but of full spec and really a piece of art using high spec copper, bearings and magnets, featuring a hardened axle shaft, hall sensors, a fan for cooling and double keyway (front and back). Crazy spec motors! They come a lot cheaper when you buy them together with a board.

We want them beauties to stay alive under the harsh conditions of e-skating. So we will attach some nice mesh metal filters. I found a frying pan fat catcher the other day and thought: Lets recycle it! If your partner asks where the hell the fat catcher is: “I have no clue” is the appropriate answer. Be fair, get a new one the next day and hide your board away for a while.

Best way to do the Job: Stick the filter disc to the mesh, using double sided tape. Nick the kitchen scissors (you know how to deal with the issue…) and cut out the filter. Put your motor away, since the fine metal chunks love the magnets!

Hardest bit is cutting out the centre. I use a cutter knife and some patience.

Now we focus on the front side. I made a drawing for your convenience: Again, when cutting the metal, put your motor away and clean the desk frequently with a vacuum cleaner.

I hope that my Cells will arrive the next days and we can continue to finish off this board.

I think I will use the time and tell something about the battery pack I will make: Why 11S4P? I want to ad in as many cells as possible and 44 cells would still leave some air to fit a fuse and other stuff. Everyone thinks you need to go for 6,8,10,12S. You could also go for 7,9,11S. It doesn’t matter!

People ask me about batteries all the time and here are some answers.

A cell is basically rated by:

  • capacity (mAh),
  • nominal voltage (Volt),
  • maximum continuous discharge current (Amps)
  • maximum charge current (Amps)

You could dig deeper - but lets keep it simple for the now.

I compare batteries to bottles, containing a liquid having a certain percentage of alcohol (3.7V). What we want is a big bottle containing a certain percentage alcoholic drink + you should be able to empty it fast. Unfortunately, the big bottles seam to have a narrow bottle neck, so you can’t drink fast enough. Only the very good cells feature a wide bottle neck and a nice volume. (high max. discharge current and high capacity) Usually cells having a wide bottle neck can also be filled faster (max. charge current).

You will find some rebranded cells advertised with fantastic values. That is only fooling you around. They confuse the max. continuous discharge with the max. discharge (for a short period of time). Stick to the big Brands ( Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, Sanyo etc). As soon as a cell has a funky branding and uses graphics on its perimeter be sceptic.

A good 18650 Lithium cell would currently have:

  • 2500-3000 mAh
  • 3.7V nominal Voltage
  • 20-35 max. continuous discharge current
  • 5A max continuous charge current

Battery packs are made from single cells. You would read something like “10S2P Sony VTC6 setup” on the forums… 10S2P means: You put 2 cells in Parallel ( + to + and - to - pole, side to side) II You take 10 of these parallel assemblies and connect them Serial (always + to-) = = = = = = = = = =

What happens is the following: Putting cells in Parallel will double up the capacity. Tow bottles, each containing 1L, 3.7V alcoholic drink side by side = 2L, 3.7V alcoholic drink. You double up the capacity, easy to understand. If you put the cells in Series a funny thing happens. Tow bottles, each containing 1L, 3.7V alcoholic drink, stacked on another (one feeding its content into the others bottom), will result in a bottle assembly having still 1L of content but 7.4V alcohol content.

By putting cells in Parallel and Series, we can adjust our pack to have the right Voltage and Capacity. I will build up a 11S4P pack from LG INR18650-HG2. Maybe there are better cells existing but I still had some and wanted to use them. Rating: 3.7V, 3000mAh, max. continuous discharge 20A, max. charge 4A.

11S4P will result in a pack having 12000mAh (4x3000mAh) capacity and 40,7V nominal Voltage (11x3,7V) 12000mAh = 12Ah. The pack will store 488 Wh (12Ah x 40,7V) of energy.

What happens to the other values (max. discharge and charge). These simply multiply with the amount of Parallel Cells (4P in this case) 20A max. continuous discharge per cell will give us 80A (4x20A) max. continuous discharge for the pack (11S4P). Same thing applies to the max. charge current: 4x 4A =16A.

Day Two: Cells arrived, lets make the pack.

This is my Layout - its always wise to make a drawing of what you want to make before you start!

We will make 4P packs and group them to be a 11S setup. Since I want my Pack to flex without adding stiffness to the deck, I designed something special. We also want to ad a centre spine, so that impacts would not harm the cells. You don’t want a 488Wh pack to go up in flames below your feet, despite the deck being bullet proof. This is how it looks in real life:

Now lets go in the details: We need - a sheet of 2mm Tufnol and - a sheet of 1mm Tufnol, - a hard wood profile (10x20) - and some thin plywood.

I use ply wood, but you could also just use the 2mm Tufnol!

No spot welder in the post today, so we have to wait a bit longer…


Awesome addition of this thread, thanks for sharing your expertise!

I hope this will help others to get their boards up and running faster. Since the devil sometimes is in the detail, I try to be precise, so everything will go to plan. The only special tool I will use is a spot welder. Just ordered a cheap ebay model (probably the one many people would buy), so that you can even follow my work on the battery. I will post my settings and setup.



Wow, super detailed, down to earth and nice build to read Frank. I was convinced my eMTB would feature lipos but this has me thinking of li-ion possibilities.

Out of interest, how much abuse do you think the finished product will take - especially with the battery being below the deck? I know this is a urban carver and shouldn’t hopefully get hammered too hard but do you think this could be feasible for a serious off road board or even a park board hitting rails etc? I wouldn’t ever have considered the batteries would be safe beneath the board but with the enclosure made out of the same material as the deck they should be pretty bash proof right? Could you also incorporate some sort of shock proofing material to the inside?

Very nice work either way and I can’t wait to see how this turns out! :grinning:

I will do a special battery build and will ad a centre rail in between the cell rows. A impact would bypass the cells in most cases. The 5 Ply would be better in that case, its very very ridgid. Maybe I should try to mould a special 6 Ply carbon UD reinforced version. I would not do rail slides! A 488Wh battery pack going up in flames is no place you want to be near to.



True…but it would make for a stunning video! :laughing:

That’s your bit of this post then. Crash Test Dummy Dan doing the rails. It will be called the Dan-Rail-Slide (DRS) in future. You can be part of skate history man!



Impressive. Devil is in the details.

Hahaha! Deal! People will be like “DRS - wasn’t he that guy that exploded mid way through a frontside boardslide?”

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I just update the original post, so have a look. More images to follow soon. Still waiting for the Ebay spot welder…


Which spot welder did you order?

I want to try the 788 Sunko (148 Euro). We have a 709 Sunko (249€) in Nottingham, which works fine. We do not want to build packs for sale, so I will not invest in a fancy one. The reason why I chose this one is simple: I want to show how I do the job with this machine and post my settings and tweaks and experience. This thread is meant to go down very deep into details of DIY. I know people have issues because sometimes some info is missing. The Sunko 788 is very common and so I chose this. Benjamin has one and we did some packs with it. Works somehow and good bang for the bucks.

You need a slow fuse for the electric circuit though. I have a 230V 16A Fuse with rating C installed now. Benjamin was so kind to exchange it for me. The Sunko 788 and 709 kick out your fuse really easy. So you want a slow fuse.

Google: ABB C16A


Since most people in the diy-scene only build 1-2 packs a spot welder is bad investment. I’m actually considering buying one and renting it to people on the forums for a small fee+shipping and a deposit.

Brotherhood of the travelling spot welder kinda


Or just re-sell it after the job is done. You could organize a circling spot welder thread. Each time you use it deduct 10 Euros of its value and soon we will have lots of spot welders for everyone, costing you only 10 bucks. 149 € is no bad invest and the truth is: once you are e-skate addict, you will build more boards…



Day Two: Cells arrived, lets make the pack.

This is my Layout - its always wise to make a drawing of what you want to make before you start!

We will make 4P packs and group them to be a 11S setup. Since I want my Pack to flex without adding stiffness to the deck, I designed something special. We also want to ad a centre spine, so that impacts would not harm the cells. You don’t want a 488Wh pack to go up in flames below your feet, despite the deck being bullet proof. This is how it looks in real life:

Now lets go in the details: We need - a sheet of 2mm Tufnol and - a sheet of 1mm Tufnol, - a hard wood profile (10x20) - and some thin plywood.

I use ply wood, but you could also use the 2mm TUFNOL!

No Spot Welder in the post today, so we have to wait a bit longer…


@trampa - thanks for such a detailed and pic heavy tutorial! Really great to see how you do it, and step-by-step so we can do the same. Great detail i can see being used for doing this across multiple boards, not just Trampa.

Appreciate a vendor such as yourself contributing so heavily and helping a DIY forum!


I enjoy building and designing stuff hands on. I really think E-Boards want a bullet proof battery enclosure and really well protected cells. So I try to teach everyone how to achieve this. Dan wants to do rail slides and go down the Ramps. Team Trampa always took it to the very edge… We want some E-Action!

This is for you @DanSkates :



Soooo good!!! The possibilities of a board sport with this new technology is just unfathomable. These pictures are amazing and I know for an absolute fact in the next couple of years all these pictures will be of dudes using eTB (Electric Trampa Boards!) going even bigger!! Imagine what it will be like not to need a hill and hit something only at the speed you can roll, and then after you’ve hit a spot not needing a tow but to just turn around and hit it again straight away…in the opposite direction! Where before you could maybe hit a spot 10 times in an hour you could now smash that spot 100 times in the same hour! Not only will this be more fun but progression will be faster - people will dial in harder tricks in less time. Hell, people could learn to hit kickers and rails on home made spots in their back yards or in the street as they won’t need as much space. This is the dream every rider has.

We are witnessing the birth of something very special…so strap in, power up your board and enjoy the ride! :rocket:


Great build. :+1: Thanks for all the work you are putting into this, so every beginner can see clearly from the pictures how its done the right way. Looking forward to see that build finished. You will definitely have a lot of fun with it. :grinning: I think the VMS will be the next big step after the VESC 6.0 for the best possible electronics in your build.

I hope I can continue soon. I need to nip down to a shop to get more silicone membrane and then I will finish off the hardware. Spotwelder turned out to come from china despite being listed as coming from Germany. I’ll get the Sunko 709 over from Nottingham. At least I know this machine works. It will arrive on Thursday I guess.

Cheers, Frank