Finally I want to introduce you my electric skateboard. I was experimenting since october 2016 on my build and it was a quite long journey (with a lot of money and stress) to it’s final form.
Deck: It’s a diy vanguard shaped deck, reinforced with carbon fiber. Was my first try, so there are some tiny mistakes.
Vesc: My first Vesc was from Vanda Electronics and it performs pretty good in my opinion. No problems or drv faults since start. For the dual upgrade i needed another vesc and I was able to purchase an Axle Vesc here in the forum.
Both Vesc are connected via can.
Battery: Currently I’m running an 8s3p pack with VTC5 cells. The range is pretty good with a single setup and 90mm flywheel clones. I think it was about 25 km. With the additional motor it was about half the range. That’s why I decided to add a 2s3p to my actual pack and make it a 10s3p pack. Hope it performs good.
Remote: I’m using the mini remote. I can fully recommend this one.
Motors: I got one 200 KV motor from esk8.de and one 260 KV motor from turnigy.
Trucks: One caliber II standard truck and a spare truck from an old longboard (why not 2 calibers? continue reading )
Motor mounts: I have one diy custom cnc made motor mount fitting caliber trucks. Heavily inspired by Enertion. The other one is from bangood. This one won’t fit to a normal caliber truck, thats why I went with the spare one and glued it with epoxy metall to the truck (holds rocksolid). The description said that this motor mount would fit motors from 50xx-63xx. What I can say is, that it wont work with turnigy motors. You have to drill some addtional holes to make 63xx motors fit.
Wheels: My first experience with wheels bigger than the 90mm Flywheel clones are the 5 inch full rubber wheels from this board. Testing those was a little bit hard cause they had a high rolling resistance and caused my battery to sag a lot. During a normal start up my battery indicator went down from 100% to 50% which was quite a lot compared to the urethane wheels.
I always wanted a smooth ride over bumpy roads. It was definetly possible with those wheels, but it wasn’t good for my battery. That’s why I was looking for some other pneumatics and found the Powerslide Road Warrior. They dont fit caliber trucks perfectly, because you only have 1-3mm of the thread to screw the nut. Since I dont have a lathe to work on the hubs I decided to use some loctite to make it hold. Let’s see if it works
Do I miss something? I you have any question, please feel free to ask me
Anyway, I want to say thanks to this forum. The huge knowledge base took me quite a bit to read, but if you are managing to read it all it’s amazing what you can do with a piece of wood and a little bit of electronics.
Keep on goin fellows!
PS.: Sorry for the long post. Here is a potato longboard
Im also wondering how exactly your battery pack looks now… and it is a bit weird to see, that you still get sag with 3P config at 8s, using vtc5 cells which should be good for about 20A each…maybe connections are not sturdy enough or something so the extra energy is burnt up somewhere as heat?
I have 60A capable pack but im running at only 6s and I usually dont see more than 25% drop in voltage when looking at the meter… 50% drop sounds quite a lot actually…
I checked all my connections and solder joints. They seem to be fine. My theory is still that the sag is caused by the full rubber wheels, since they really have a high rolling resistance.
As I got the pneumatic wheels I compared them to the full rubber ones and the difference in rolling resistance is huge. The pneumatics are much more smoother, I can even push with them.
Sadly one belt has gotten to big since my epoxid glueing with the Motor Mount. A new belt should come on Monday and with that a new test drive
Maybe the voltage sag isn’t that huge anymore. I’m hyped
I think you would need 2S charger, so you need a supply of about 8.4volts probably.
The one you listed seems to be for just 1S, so not enough.
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Why do you want to add it seperately anyways? Maybe I dont understand the exact idea you are going to ‘attach’ the new battery module to the existing battery mh
Oh you are right, this isn’t a 2s charger. My problem is if that charger shows me it can charge 1000 mAh for example, is it enought to charge a 3p (7800mAh) battery?
I want to seperate it, because I’m too lazy to open my 8s pack, buy and solder a 10s bms and buy a 10s charger ^^ My idea is to charge them seperatly and connect them after the charge to a 10s.
If I have enough time and patience in the future, I will probably upgrade to a 10s bms + charger.
I think the best solution is as you mentioned - to do it as a 10s pack, with 10s bms and charger… at least I dont like idea about seperate charging circuits… ok some people charge packs while split, because they have 10s for example, but can only charge as 2x 5s… but still
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I dunno does it allow to charge ‘straight’ - without balance leads connected, but looks good to me:
Otherwise, yeh, you can probably just try to find similar power source as you listed, and get one of these little strips and then carefully monitor, that the voltage matches between your 6s and 2s pack:
When selecting ‘power source’ I would only worry that it is not too slow… as you said - if you got 1A charger, it will take 7hours! to charge the pack fully… more or less.
I would advise to get 2-3A power supply with ~8.4v probably then.
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So yes, some background info onto how you charge your pack now, would be nice So far I only know u seem to use VTC5 cells in 8s3p
@Okami Right now I’m charging my 8s pack via 8s bms and 33.6 V charger and the 2s pack via balance charger (kinda like the imax B6)
It’s not the best solution, but it works. But I already bought a 2s charger and a 2s bms. Waiting for them to arrive and then gonna sold it all together
Like I said, if I have enough spare time I’m gonna upgrade it to a full 10s bms + charger.
And thank you for your effort btw
@LukePL
Well I didn’t test them yet, because I faced an issue. It seems like the thread isn’t enough to screw the nut on. Also the outer bearing is sitting on the thread and doesn’t fill out the axle. I can hear some weird noises (like cracking noises) while driving through my living room.
I just found someone who can mill the wheels for me. The plan is to mill the bearing distance to 10mm like normal longboard wheels, so that the bearings can sit on the axle and not on the thread. I’ll keep you updated
@darkkevind
Yeah, that’s how I use it. Since the VTC5 aren’t drifiting that much and the vesc are handling the voltage cut-offs this method totally works for me.
While I’m waiting for the pneumatic wheels to get done, this my current riding setup
)
mh
would love to try them