Yeah i was about to say I have a DeWalt heat gun from a local store that will melt your face off. I’ve used it to bend all kinds of things, peel paint off of walls in single wall-sized sheets, dry fresh paint on a board, heat shrink tubing, and it will set things on fire when turned up all the way. Damned hot is what i would say since I don’t know how hot it actually gets.
@Iceni, what type of bolt was used to attach Vesc. Where did you place those bolts? What type of material was used for pad? Sorry for so many questions 
Mounted them on a piece of scrap plastic sheet i had left from making the enclosure. The vesc has 4 mounting holes in the pcb, though i only used 3 of them, since one is located under the PCM connector. The screws i used are regular M3 machinescrews, about 3 cm long, could use 2.5cm longscrews and still have enough clearance to access both usb ports. And some rubber grommets to adjust height and making sure i don’t short anything out when screwing on the nuts, noticed that the motor lead mounts would get shorted if i just screwed them on withough insulation.
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All kinds of nice build. Super clean and props for the wire set up. Very useful to see the forming and bending case set up.
Just a quick update, got my jst connectors in the mail today, so made the canbus cable and the nunchuck reciever plug. Will plug everything in tomorrow and start doing some benchtesting.
Some testing later one vesc runs motor detection and is running smoothly with keyboard kontrols. The other vesc, not so much, motor only gives off one or two stutters during detection and when trying to run it with the keyboard. Troubleshooting ongoing.
After a bit of prodding around with my trusty multimeter i found two pins on one of the big chips that was bridged together by some stray solder. Took a knife to it and lo and behold, it now works the way it should!
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Not sure if all four pins on the canbus should be used, the guide says to connect the two middle ones, but doesn’t say not to use the other two. If they shouldn’t be connected, could someone please let me know?
For the nunchuck connector i used a breakout board so i won’t need to disassemble the wireless dongle for testing. Though it doesn’t seem to work with the MadCatz Z-chuk, so i had to solder the wires directly to the dongle anyway, which didn’t work either, so i guess it just isn’t compatible. The status led on the dongle only gives off a reeeeally dim blinking. Tried with a wired nunchuck as well, no dice. So another question: Anyone tried a wired one before?
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DO NOT connect 5v and GND because that is likely to cause ground loops which can reset and/or kill the VESCs. Just use the middle ones only for the CAN bus connection.
Ah, right. Will remove them. Thanks!
yeah supposedly not all wireless nunchucks work… chaka is building the nunchuck alterative that vedder and jacoby are working on and testing them. hopefully it works well and chaka will sells them. i assume onloop will too?
Yea, but they were cheap, since i couldn’t find a nyko inside EU at the time, so got two for less than half the price of one nyko from the states. So i thought, what the heck, if they don’t work at least i get two wireless chucks for my wii.
For science! Madcatz is a crossed off from the list. If my nyko fails i will test a few other as well. Will probably get a reg gt2b for a back up. Chaka sells a gt2b in badwolf enclosure but 90usd. I may get one of those if the nunchucks he is testing doesn’t work out.
Cool, found one nyko on amazon in europe and snagged it, so if that doesn’t work i’ll go with a 2.4ghz remote and hack it to bits propably.
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I just heared today from a guy who claims that he got the VESC v4.10 working with a logic3 Nunchuk on FW1.14. Will test that myself tomorrow, that would solve some headaches especially here in Europe.
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Frankly I’ve been seeing too many pictures of shoddy quality VESC assemblies. Not what I would expect from a $100+ piece of kit. Even if it’s regarded as beta. Are these from Enertion ? I hope the November batch turns out better.
Yes, from enertion. Though from what i’ve seen, enertion has been good about trying to get them fixed if something is broken. And I guess i was lucky it was as simple as a solderbridge that just needed cutting, hopefully it didn’t cause any permanent damage.
While fiddling with the cover i found out the bends i made were too brittle and would propably break. So used some aluminium brackets i had from an old project. The frame is a single length of aluminium, just cut pieces of one side to make two 90’ bends, so it should be sturdy enough.
Glued the plates to the inside of the brackets, will put a few bolts or rivets when the glue has hardened.
Sneakpeak of cover mk.2
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So i got a rivet tool earlier today and finished up most of the case, decided to scrap the formed plastic altogether and go for aluminium sides on both the base and the cover. I’ll be surprised if this bends while riding!
The cover will be mounted on hinges so it’ll be just two locking screws at the other end propably. Might use a rod through the whole case though.
Looking pretty good if i get to say so myself 
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