I was actually going to use it while riding. (I think that’s what everyone in this thread have been doing? Or did I assume incorrectly?) It’s just that, a minute after I’ve connected the booster pack to the main pack, the insulation on the thin wire connecting the booster pack to the protection module started to melt.
I know. I wanted to stay on the conservative side and be safe, apparently it wasn’t. How did you guys make yours? And were you able to use it while riding?
@DeathByBacon charging while riding is definitely the goal here. I’ve tried charging at 4 and 6 amps without problems. your booster looks the same as mine as well.
At amps higher than 4 I’ve found that the standard 2.5mm barrel plugs start to melt and even weld together. For anything higher than that I would recommend using xt30 or higher rated plugs
My recommendation is to buy two more 30Qs. Make a 10s2p. Plug it into your XT60 charge port when both packs are about the same voltage and then go riding with the goofy grin you get when you notice less sag, greater acceleration and almost double your current range; all without the side effects of shorting out cells or burning down your trailer park.
Charge and ride them all at the same time so they self balance. Be safe and have a blast riding, not from exploding cells and burning wires.
The only problem here is the age of the cells will be different resulting in one pack supplying more power than the other. Also both packs will need a bms
Agreed. However, this is superior to any 6s3p + voltage booster combo. Imagine what happens following a 30s acceleration or hill climb. i.e. the differential power supply that would occur.
This is totally outside my wheelhouse, so forgive my ignorant questions, but wouldn’t the 6s battery + booster + watt meter work just fine as long as you avoid big amp draw from hills or hard extended acceleration? I’m just trying to determine if it’s worth the effort to build one for my 10s3p board.
It really seems cool. Assuming you don’t start a fire, at some point the 6s pack will empty before the main pack…
I keep a voltage meter programmed for 6s voltage and a low voltage alarm together to alarm when one P group goes below some threshold or the entire packs voltage gets too low to let me know it’s time to unplug… they usually alarm at the exact same time. It gets balance charged via charge only BMS.
6S power tool packs are great with their little built in BMSs, they automatically cut off when empty.
6S batteries --> boost converter --> watt meter works great. Boost converter limits the amp draw (mines set to 4A). Hills and acceleration don’t make a difference on amp draw with this setup, constant amp draw, remains stable regardless of load. I just notice 4A worth less voltage sag on my saggy 25rs
Thanks so much for explaining the entire project. You are very patient with me. I get it now. I thought Bacon was building a custom 6s3p while attempting to burn his place down. So I was like why not a 10s2p without all the toys?..
Have fun with it. Stay safe.
Making a portable charger for my 12s 4.6ah graphene lipo.
I love this boost converter. If you take it on a board, be sure to pot the components with some e6000 or silicone or something to help resist vibrations. I did this, but missed a single mosfet, and when it failed a few months in it was that mosfet that I didn’t glob e6000 around.
What is e6000? Is this some sort of esk8 waterproofing agent I’m unaware of? 
How does it work compared to conformal coating?
I don’t know exactly, it’s clear, goopy, dries into a slightly flexible putty, and it’s sold in fabric stores and Walmart but the name is from something about being able to withstand 6000 volts of electricity or something, I guess it was originally designed for electronics?
I may be wrong, but in my search for neutral cure silicone locally, e6000 came up a lot on the Google…
And I may have misused the term potting but a quick Google said potting was for helping electronics withstand vibration so it seems like the right word to use in this case.
And you have never heard of e6000 for real?
I’ve never used it as conformal coating. It’s way too globby and thick, I wouldn’t use it for conformal coating.
Sometimes I want globby and thick, sometimes I don’t. I’ll have to pick up some of this.
Only thing I’ve been trying to figure out is if it is neutral cure or not. This is the only thing keeping me from applying it to batteries atm.
Be careful with that converter, if it doesn’t have a fan to cool the heat sink it will over heat at higher than 4A. I burnt my hands on it last time lol. After adding a fan I can push 8a with a holdable heat sink
I was thinking to output 50.4v 4A and input 42v guess input will be 6A efter efficiency losses, better look for a fan. Thanks for your advice.
Thanks for your advice, I can see that happening if you take it aboard, I will definitely secure the components.
Did a first charge with my portable charger, battery 10s2p samsung 22p with bms, 15A 900w voltage boost module, watt meter on boosted side, tiny charge bms and cell checker.
I set the unloaded voltage to 50.4, when I started charging the charger was giving out 1A then adjusted it to 3.5A output. the charging slowed down and finished at 49.8v 4.15v/cell not sure why? checked later with my Icharger and the cells where balanced within 10mv. Everything stayed very cool during charging.
