Hey guys I remember seeing some builds using hummie’s deck with drop through trucks, but routing the board to make the trucks flush with it. I don’t remember who has that kind of build, so for any of you, could you tell me the clearance from the axle to the board? I am wondering if I could use the torqueboards direct drive in that setting… What do you think?
I think @Pedrodemio was first, out of necessity
What are the OD of the motors? I think you will probably have to make some wells
Best way to make it perfect would wrap a sand paper around the motors and spin them to sand
They are 63mm… What would you think of routing the bottom of the board instead, and use it top mounted?
It would work, but the board obviously would be higher
First thing I would do is mount everything as it is, enclosure included
Depends on where you ride the clearance can be a problem, even with my 125mm wheels and really slim enclosure I manage to put a giant scratch on the enclosure this weekend on a bump that I thought I would have enought clearance to pass
Err… You’re going to have to route motor wells.
To be fair these are caliber 44 baseplates so they’re a little closer to the deck than a 50 degree baseplate.
But yours is not routed, you could win a couple of mm’s if you did, add 50 degree baseplate and some wells and looks like it could work. Is your motor parallel to the axle?
How did you do the routing? did you just use a router to cut vertically and then unglue the plyes? or did you have to also route horizontally?
Yeah that’s what I was showing.
Here is what you can expect to get if you routed motor wells AND routed the top where the baseplate sits.
All horizontal, with a dremel and a lot of patience
The carbon fiber will ruin the bits in no time, I think I used 2 or 3 to make the two trucks
You mean vertical (perpendicular to the board)?
Seems pretty decent… does the board integrity stays the same if you route wells?
I tried a dremel at first and was immediately like “nope” and bought a proper router the next day
Yeah pretty much
Yeah, sorry, misunderstood, I used a 3D printed router attachment that screws on
I have a full router, used it to expand the electronics hole, but for the trucks I wanted to be careful and slow to make a perfect fit
So you used a drill bit and not a cutting disc?
Sorry for all the questions
My preferred bit for all routing work is the 194, just the carbon fiber destroys it pretty quickly, you can also try the 9901, but it may be even worse since both the carbon fiber and tungsten carbide obviously have a lot of carbon
Just don’t go to any non-spiral flute design, for hand work the vibration is too big to make anything precise
My full size router chew the deck with no problem, but you have to take it slow and at high rpm, I forgot to check if the bit lost any cut
I did this thing…
I’m thinking of routing the under side of the board, guess that with the micro drop its going to be low enough and I will have good clearance for the direct drives.
what kind of routing jig did you use in order to expand the battery compartment straight and clean? Or did you free hand it? I see you scored a line to follow, was there guide or “wall” you had to create to press the router’s base plate up against? Cheers!