Samsung 30T or 40T 12s4p 4WD better for Esk8?

So I found a supplier for the highly anticipated Samsung 30T and 40T, but I not sure which one would be better for my build, so I’ll lay out the info and hopefully someone can give some good advice :slight_smile: Now I’m planning on building an AWD setup and would like to make a 12s5p pack, but I may have to settle for a 12s4p, due to size, so which of these three cells would you guys recommend (ignoring price). One thing I’ve read which I don’t really know how it applies to Esk8 since these reviews are done mainly for vapping, but it says that the 40T is a better cell for regulated use, and the 30T is better for unregulated use. Also, with how powerful these cells will make the packs, will I require a certain level of ESC, (FOCBOX, VESC 6 (ESCape))

Samsung 30T $10/cell (as a rewrap Vapcell) 3100mAh 35A

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/samsung-inr21700-30t-35a-3000mah-21700-bench-test-results-an-incredible-battery.798683/

Samsung 40T $11/cell (as a rewrap Vapcell) 4000mAh 30A

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/bench-test-results-samsung-40t-21700…a-great-30a-3900mah-battery-better-than-ncr20700a.842165/

Also, the supplier is promoting another cell which is a rewrap of a Sanyo NCR20700A , it’s a Vapcell 20700 3200mAh 30A , $6.50. Now this is a pretty good price I think for a cell that is so similarly spec’d as the others. Now I don’t mind paying $10 or so a cell if it is for the best cell available, but if there is another cell that’s pretty close and about 30% less, I’ll certainly consider that. What do you guys think?

Personally I’m leaning towards the Samsung 40T, I think that would be the ultimate, most powerful cell to use, especially if I’m going to be restricted to a 12s4p pack AND be running 4WD… Anyway, thoughts??? Thanks for your help guys!

1 Like

40T means less spot welding

Well I might end up using the N.E.S.E modules, so that would mean none, but if I don’t use that and build it normally, why would that require less spot welding? Though, I’m not really concerned with that. I want whichever is going to be the best cell for my build.

You would use less cells for the same sized battery which means less spot welding

The 21700 have almost 50% greater volume than an 18650, which means you’ll use less cells for a given volume. So if you have a 2500 cm^3 of volume to work with, you could fit 150 18650s in that volume or fit 107 21700s in that same volume.

1 Like

The 150 18650 will probably get you better results for the money spent. 150 18650 will be more energy than 107 21700s

Yes, it will be cheaper to buy 50% more 18650 since the 40Ts are 2x more and he’d get 50% more capacity and equivalent current rating with an 18650 pack. We’ve repeatedly said this but he’s really dead set on the superiority of a single cell, so at this point, let him build his 40T pack at 2x the cost it needs to be. What’s really going to be interesting is how he builds his pack. 120 amp continuous capable arrangement of cells, but probably going to use 0.15x7mm strips

4 Likes

What would you consider the most optimal way of building it? I was considering using a N.E.S.E. module to make a 12s4p (5p if possible)

  1. 10S not 12S
  2. depends on what you’re optimising for. You need to let us know. It can be probably any two of

weight cost power range size

1 Like

Why not 12S? He’s going to use vesc6 equivalents.

1 Like

Whatever the argument up there is ^.

Only if you truely are doing 4wd…

Otherwise anything above 3p is a waste IMO… Your talking cool 35a/cell, 3p is 105a continuous… the point of these is weight savings… to get 100a out of something like 30q is 5p minimum.

30T = 68.2g 12s3p = 36 cells 36*68.2= 2455.2g

30q = 46g 12s5p = 60 cells 60*46 = 2760g

Let’s up it one to try to match current. 30q, 12s6p = 3312g 30T 12s4p = 3273.6g

Not that different… pretty sure 18650 is less volumetric space… someone can correct me if I am wrong, but likely cheaper then 30t as well…

Anyway…

1 Like

30T and 30q are both rated for 4a max charge. If you run fewer 30Ts then you won’t get the same braking ability.

I’ve never reached my boards battery max in any of my rides, but I have seen battery min several times. In my mind this would probably rule out the 30T.

40T is my first choice atm.

You’re wrong.

1 Like

30q

If you’re making a AWD board your cells still won’t powerful enough in 4p configuration to Max out all four motors at once.

With that in mind 120 battery amps split in four is 30a.
So basically any VESC will do because good luck pulling that kind of power continuous.

I’m assuming from your track record you didn’t look up the amp limits for these. Even for V2 it appears to not have enough amp draw for high power builds.

Please tell us why…

I feel like every one of these questions has been discussed in detail, specifically by you and many others throughout this forum.

Whatever though!

#NAUP

Not another @uigiroux Post

2 Likes

You won’t convince him. He’s dead set on the 40T and doesn’t know how to math. Let him waste his money how he wants. I’m actually curious how he’s going to build his pack. I thought nese modules are only 18650?

Only thinking aloud allowed.

HW6.4 still uses a DRV8301 IC. Slam on the brakes at high speed and poof

4wd…on hubs. you can get better performance on 1wd belted. And save a few hundred bucks doing it. When i buy batteries the only variable I look at is wh/kg per currency spent. Wouldnt go for any of the ones you linked

Lol, you are Building a portable cruiser board with high capacity low discharge cells?

… Every battery has ist application. IMO th 40T is nice for a portable cruiser or an overpowered 4wd hub board everything else 30Q