Essentially that. Since space is quite limited, I want the most powerful cells that’ll allow me to run my 4WD hubs at max power, with minimal sag, and I’d hope for a range of art least 20 miles. I’m not trying to make a super portable Penny board or anything, I think that’s obvious. I do want a very powerful board, but I don’t want it to end up weighing like 30-40ish pounds like the Master Evo build with 13s5p of 30Q’s. With the enclosure cover in designing it should look just like a normal longboard, just a bit thick… That’s the plan at least 
What speed you pretend to go on that distance?
To get the full performance regardless of the range you should stick to lipos. the only cells that can Output enough and can be used in a 1P configuration to save weight
Well I am not sure exactly, depends on the roads and what types of tires I’m running, but I would like to have a top speed of around 35ish, and probably cruising speed somewhere between 15-25. I can’t really be more specific I haven’t ridden an Esk8 in the city I’m at now. If I was back in Houston, there’s lots of good flat roads and bike trails everywhere, but not so much here…
I considering that. I spoke to someone who is running the tattu lipos at 12s. He got em used he said, for $150 each, so $450. Though he said they were so amazing that when they need to be replaced he’ll spend the $1200 on em new. I gotta go back and see who that was… I hadn’t really considered lipos, but I just might now…
I’m not sure you understand ( like I did when I started) the amount of torque under acceleration you will have with all four motors. You are going to be the limiting factor on the board, not the batteries. These high battery amps you want to pull are mostly transient for under a few seconds because 0-35mph doesn’t take but a few seconds. Once you’re safely cruising at 35, amp draw drops and even up steep hills it’s not that high.
Which is why we keep pointing you to 30q batteries because you get more for your money.
Lipo will give you the most power for space, probably more amps than necessary. If space/power is your primary concern this is your best option. Don’t buy crap lipos though.
Maybe it’s about time you start a build log thread. You can have all your questions contained in one spot. Plus once you start adding your intended parts all of us can get a better idea of what you’re doing and better assist you. That would be helpful.
I built a12s6p of 30q for my board. I’ve managed to pull about 118a from the battery. It only happens for a half a second. But I’m more interested in the range because on a48" deck I’ve got room for days.
4 Likes
Now I understand that when you get to 6p, you also have much less voltage sag, as well as it extends the life of your battery pack quite a bit. If I had the space to do a 12s6p I would likely go with the 30Q, but I think the largest I can do is 12s5p… How about the Sanyo NCR20700A at 3100mAh and 30A for about $6/cell. That seems like a reasonable compromise…?
I am running 8 x 3S 6Ah 65C Lipo from HK Graphenes ones, they cost a lot but they don’t sag at all even at low voltages they still deliver their power like its nothing but prices are high for evo I thought I will use 8 x 6S 6Ah 65C ones but the total price is like 800£ So I am thinking of using maybe 30Q with like 10P minimum one problem I see is low charging C compared to lipos as I am able to charge them with 5C without even warming them up 
2 Likes
So would you recommend lipos for my build or are you thinking 30Q’s also? If yes to lipos, do you have any suggestions for the size constraints I’m under?
What’s the cutout size of the @Hummie deck? Isn’t it 590x140x15? A 12s5p of 21700 batteries would be 30 cells long by 2 cells wide. That’s 690x140! You’d need to make the area 100mm longer and 10mm wider. But that barely leaves enough space for the battery, let alone the esc and VESCs. @Mikenopolis only has a 12s3p of 30q in his board.
As I am not restricted to dimensions of existing enclosures I am still thinking, a lot of stuff will be needed to be adjusted like my modular bms as the splitting in groups will be bit hard compared to lipos. But 30Q is definitely cheaper 
Regarding dimensions there is battery selector in HK page
That’s the correct dimensions, but I don’t plan on orienting them that way. I plan on having 6 rows of 8 or 10. So 4/5 parallel group going up the length, then at the top row, run the series bridge all the way over and then the other 4/5 of each row going in series, to make a 12s setup so that is 70*6 is 420mm + 60mm bms + 2(77mm) ESCape 156mm, so that’s 636mm, that’s just an extra 46mm that needs to be routed out.
That’s figuring 2x700, so if it was 18650, that would be 606mm, or an extra 16mm needed to be routed out.
That might work. If you orient them that way then you will need to make the pack flexy. So add at least 5mm between each series connection.
1 Like
Are you planning on selling any of your BMS, MCU, or ESC? I’ve seen pics and have been very interested in what you come up with
I’d think that by adding 2 more motors, 2 more VESC and the fact the fact that a 12s5p of 21700 or 20700 will weigh more than the 13s5p of 18650. Given you don’t have those heavy 107mm wheels. I’d guess this will be just as heavy if not heavier.
If I do go with 30Q’s, then I would make the enclosure large enough to fit 12s5p. That’s just 20mm from each side. I think as long as I reinforce it with fiber glass or CF then it should be ok. I’d prefer 12s6p with the 30Q’s, but I think I’d be good with 5p.
Oh, well I hope not, but I guess with the batteries I can at least kinda control the weight of the cells require less of them…
Think about this for a second. @psychotiller enclosure for that deck is 15mm deep. So 30mm of space inside. @bigben wanted to make his 10mm deep so 25mm of space. He also said that he would design a double stack version. If it was 20mm, giving you 35mm of space, that should be enough to double stack 18650. Then you could easily fit a 12s6p if whatever cell you’d like with the enclosure only being 10mm thicker.
My 12s3p decision was made just because it was an existing pack I already had, with a little neater wiring and BMS position I might’ve been able to fit more cells? The next build with another deck might be a AT board so I’ll probably do with a larger stagger pack with a thicker enclosure.
@Mobutusan posted a picture with some cells in the deck here: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/new-wood-and-carbon-decks-group-buy/43245/62
With that in mind, this will give you an idea of how much space I used/wasted for wiring, splitter, switch, BMS, BT module etc.
I realize I can double stack, but my goal is to make this board with enclosure look like a normal board, and as thin as possible.