No balance wires or bms were used in this build by the looks of it.
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@whitepony doesnāt usually use a BMS on his builds, so there arenāt any balance wires. Where youāve circled, the batteries are connected straight across.
thatās 11S4P. The one side is 6 cell blocks long the other 5 cell blocks long. Take the 5 cell block side as an example for the balance wires. I also have the cells all pointing to one side with their plus pole to allow the flex. Your layout will put strain on the cell block connectors.
Frank
Yea, if anyone could answer thatād be great, Iām interested too
whitepony, Thanks for the another amazing build, this is such a great inspiration as always and makes me build one for myself just to feel whatās like to ride a board like this.
Awesome job!
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@whitepony thanks for this very inspiring build, i followed this thread from start, so idecided to build my first eskate based on this build, just wanna ask http://m.ebay.com/itm/151895916320 will this wire be good? And have you tries 12s w/o bms? I read some threads about 12s and its too much power and not yet stable in foc.
that wire looks exactly like the one I was using! never tried 12S, all you have to take into consideration is the motor erpm limit of the vesc 4.12 if you planned to use that.
Im finally at the bottom!
great job pony, clean as F*ck and low CG to boot. looks like your inspiring the ones who enjoy that stealth look to learn vac bagging!
A pelican box will suit my taste, as ill be swapping batteries and performance isnt an issue. But that enclosure sure is sexy 
I hope to hear more from ppl using these ZABI tires. I dont think their available here in the U.S. though. 
Thanks man, probably ill stay safe with 10s and maybe when i got more experience in setting those speed controllers, then ill go for 12sā¦
can I do it without vacuum? what is soaking layer (what material)? Can I apply soaked layers of glas? Can I make it only with glas, no carbon? if I understood everything right (sorry if I take too much time, I donāt speak english very well) 1.making wooden form, mounting it to deck with tape 2.covering it with separation foil 3.using wooden blocks I apply and secure layers glas 4.I soak glas 5.I put it to vacuum bag 6. next day I remove it from vacuum
First of all I followed this thread for a long time and it was a big inspiration for me, so nice and clean, very well done! I think evolve should make donations to you plus creating a 7" @whitepony tyre edition because the more pictures of urban carvers I see the more evolve tyres I see 
You know when Iāve seen your post about this tyres the first thing I did was ordering them, too 
hehe, well, to be honest: not only do they look good, but they also seem to last longer than the trampa stock wheels. Im running these tyres since about 200-250km days now (around 10 days riding) and even though there is now just a hint of profile left, it really took a while.
actually Im really liking what the board has become for me - the moment weather seems to be semi stable, theres dirt on the road or the streets are still wet from the night, Im running the trampa. the capsuled drive is PERFECT, absolutely maintenance-free. the enclosure is really great too, completely sealed - overall its just a great allrounder while my vanguard single drive is still my preferred good weather carving machine.
its a good mix these 2 
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So they are almost done and hold up for about 300km?
Not bad but I hoped itās more than that because itās much thicker than the trampa ones. My urban carver build is not finished yet but like you Iām waiting for the 125mm urethanes, too 
because Iāll use the urban carver for 200-400km every month and canāt afford to switch tyres all the time.
On my MTB I use trampa treads hard compound and it seems that they last for about 400km (maybe even more if the timing of swapping the front and rear tyres is perfect)
WP loves to carve hard, so rubber wheels donāt last long. His trampaās only lasted for about 80km I thinkā¦so the 200-250km is a pretty big leap for him.
its always hard to compare back to back - I accumulated the kilometers on the evolve wheels over a longer period of time and I think I only carved really hard on just a few days - on others I was in a hurry and pushed the board hard on acceleration/braking instead. 
@rich if you dont carve a lot, pneumatics will last a LONG time!
You are right!
Iāll try not to carve with my urban straighter 
But joking aside I wonāt carve too hard but when they are done Iāll take the original tyres and gonna carve as hard as I can and call it the " @Nowind day ". Once in a lifetime everyone should destroy new tyres in one single day
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Dude, what brand of 6355 is that? I tried the 6374 with @Nowind mini direct drive, it was just a tad too long (the shaft to fit the motor pulley into the enclosure). I could have maybe dremelād that part. Even so, the tail end of the motor sticks out too far and hits the kingpin.
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between my motor and the laser cut steel plate i got a spacer from jenso. sure you dont have anything like that? check my pictures!
ortherwise try cutting the axle?
Yeah I saw your picsā¦ your motors are 6355ā¦ they are like only 55 mm length wise. Mine are 74mm. They hit up against the kingpin nut.
One could dremel the nut, but is it worth it? I will keep looking at the problem but it seems maybe only the dymond gtx 6374 which has a smaller than 74mm body is the only 6374 that fits with Jensoās mount. Not sure. Definitely any 6354 / 6355 (54 or 55 mm body) motors will fit like a charm. These mistakes and shipping stuff from Europeā¦ its all a valueable le$$on. I got to measure twice before I order next time.