The other part of proper failsafe is setting your PPM endpoints and center points properly. But I like your response
Setting them to some value some guy on this forum told you to set is not accurate.
On PPM tab the green bar has a ppm readout.
Push your throttle on the remote to full. - in the box by the green bar, read the number and put that in ppm max pulse width, ie mine is 2.06
push your throttle to full brake and read the number - plase in ppm min pulse width ie mine is 1.03
release the throttle and allow it to center. read the number, mine for example is 1.55, set this as your ppm centerpoint.
If your centerpoint is not set to the actual ppm pulse width of what your remote is putting out. when you failsafe ie by loss of connection it wont start braking as long as you’ve set the time outs like waffle explained above.
The other part of failsafe is done via binding, so if the remote failsafes on the receiver…ie you lost connection between transmitter and remote, when you set failsafe on the receiver it holds the neutral position of the normally received signal.
for example if you failsafe at the receiver, and you never set your failsafe, the default is whatever it was at the factory. this could be a ppm pulsewidth that doesn’t match your actual transmitter output. ie
receivers failsafe is set to 1.45, but your transmitter puts out 1.55 when the throttle is in center. well as soon as connection is lost, 1.45 is lower then center, that means its braking.
you need to program all of the above for a good failsafe setup
-Proper ppm end and center points
-setting failsafe on receiver during binding