Sparkswitch + UART and nrf modules on 1 pcb (Arduino Compatible)

[Sander]

Hey guys! I’m making a circuit with ATMEGA328P-AU as the “processor” with the Arduino bootloader. It will be embedded with Vedders Anti Spark, NRF24L01(2.4ghz transciever), HM-10(4.0 bluetooth for IOS & Android), and UART for the VESC. I will create tutorials of making apps for iOS, programming the board etc. I will make it open source when I’m done.

Circuit Front:

Circuit Back:

Keep in mind these are not the final circuits. It will change because everything isnt correct. More will be added of requests.

It will have a weak mid spot so you can just break the pcb in two if you dont wan’t the vedder’s switch on the same pcb:

This circuit was designed for me in the beginning.

Feel free to leave suggestions etc.

[rpn314]

@Sander

Hey I am wondering how much volt the PPM gives out?

I’m not following what you’re asking for entirely. The PPM is usually an input…but the middle pin is 5V. Is that what you needed?

[Sander]

@rpn314

I’m not following what you’re asking for entirely. The PPM is usually an input…but the middle pin is 5V. Is that what you needed?

Yes I am asking for that pin in the middle. Is it reliable?

[Maxid]

there are 5V output pins on the VESC - why not use those?

[rpn314]

Oh, I somehow thought you had the inner pin circled. My eyes are going apparently

As to it’s reliability, I’ve never heard of any issues. I doubt it can drive much current though. What’s your application?

[Sander]

@Maxid

there are 5V output pins on the VESC - why not use those?

lol, I suck at asking, I meant is it reliable and how much voltage? Also I know now its reliable and it gives out 5V.

@rpn314

Oh, I somehow thought you had the inner pin circled. My eyes are going apparently

As to it’s reliability, I’ve never heard of any issues. I doubt it can drive much current though. What’s your application?

Im gonna run a chip and some lights. I am already doing it on my old e-board with no problem. Its a circuit with inbuilt 2.4 ghz for remote, and 4.0 bluetooth for my phone.

This is the circuit Im gonna use for my new eboard with inbuild vedder switch that I just made now:

[Maxid]

@Sander

lol, I suck at asking, I meant is it reliable and how much voltage? Also I know now its reliable and it gives out 5V.

What I meant was that when all you need are 5V you should use one of the discrete 5V pins on the VESC and not the receiver pins.

[Sander]

@Maxid

What I meant was that when all you need are 5V you should use one of the discrete 5V pins on the VESC and not the receiver pins.

Oh that one smart idea… I forgot about that one

[rpn314]

@Maxid

What I meant was that when all you need are 5V you should use one of the discrete 5V pins on the VESC and not the receiver pins.

I’m pretty sure all of the 5V pins are connected to the same circuit so it really wouldn’t matter.[quote=“Sander, post:6, topic:14608”] Im gonna run a chip and some lights. I am already doing it on my old e-board with no problem.Its a circuit with inbuilt 2.4 ghz for remote, and 4.0 bluetooth for my phone. [/quote] Interesting. So two completely unrelated circuits on the same board? I assume the 5v has nothing to do with the vedder-ish switch?

[Sander]

@rpn314

Interesting. So two completely unrelated circuits on the same board? I assume the 5v has nothing to do with the vedder-ish switch?

Haha you are right. That switch tolerate 60V and 240Amp. But my circuit needs 5 volt to operate. And the bluetooth and 2.4ghz transciever needs 3.3v. So I have a voltage regulator that works from 4.5 → 7 volt that makes it down to 3.3v. The chip that I program on it works only from 1.8 → 5.5 Volts

[lox897]

@Sander

Im gonna run a chip and some lights. I am already doing it on my old e-board with no problem.Its a circuit with inbuilt 2.4 ghz for remote, and 4.0 bluetooth for my phone.

This is the circuit Im gonna use for my new eboard with inbuild vedder switch that I just made now:

Sounds epic! Are you going to open source it once finished?

[Sander]

@lox897

Sounds epic! Are you going to open source it once finished?

Of course! OPEN SOURCE IS LIFE!! I hope its okay I use Vedder’s Antispark? But I will give him credit and link for it tho.

And I will make a tutorial about how to make an app for your e-board

[lox897]

Pretty sure the rule is that as long as you share you can do any imrpovements you want. So are you pretty much combining a hm10 and sparkswitch onto one board?

[Sander]

Yes, I am combinding, an atmega328p-au controller that you can program. An nrf24l01 transciever and hm-10 bluetooth.

[lox897]

This might be of use to you:

Ladvien/HM-10

Keeward/HM-10

[Sander]

@lox897

This might be of use to you:

https://github.com/Ladvien/HM-10https://github.com/Keeward/HM-10

Awesome! But I think I might have connected it right…

Circuit Size(39.93x51.46mm)

[Sander]

@lox897

This might be of use to you:

https://github.com/Ladvien/HM-10https://github.com/Keeward/HM-10

Im not sure if I connected the bluetooth right… I connected the UartRx and UartTx to the pin D8 & D9(Arduino Pin). And to the regulator 3.3v. And I connected all to grounds.

[lox897]

This is the ATMEGA328P-AU you are using right?

[lox897]

I would use PD6 as RX and PD7 as TX. Remember that HM10 TX goes to ATMEGA RX and HM10 RX goes to ATMEGA TX. Then use 3.3v VCC or 5v VCC depending on if the module has a voltage regulator or not and then GND to GND.

[lox897]

You might as well use the 5v or 3.3v and gnd off the uart pins on the vesc, since that is where the rx and tx will come from.