Technical questions about Pulleys

For a 15T, 8 mm bore, 15 mm wide motor pulley:

1. Steel or Aluminum (??)

2. with Overhang, or without it (??)

3. with Flanges or without them (??)

4. Keyway or not (??)

5. Screw(s) inserted in groove or on teeth (??)

6. Which of these three screw options is better…

a) 1 x M4 screw b) 2 x M4 screws c) 1 x M5 screw

What’s the question? Which one you should use?

It all depends on which one you want, or works for you. Steel is stronger than aluminum, but more expensive. It’s just a motor pulley.

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I will never Go for these aluminium ones with the set screws in the midle again. These threads strips soo fcking easy

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There, fixed. :point_up:

Missing an option, keyway I only use key and loctite, no screws

Green loctite on shaft and key, pulley will never move, will have to be punched out or torched to remove

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There :point_up:

  1. Steel
  2. Either or, I use without overhang
  3. Atleast 1 flange (2 is better)
  4. Keyway
  5. In groove is better, in teeth is fine too
  6. 2x M4 and some red loctite

oh also a 15mm pulley is also always a good choice (more room for expansion in the future)

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What about just bearing retaining loctite (no screws, no keyway)? 48hrs curing time! I know some people swear by this?

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How’s this?

This stuff. What could possibly go wrong. There’s pictures of gears on the bottle and everything.

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your a hatr! my pulley is currently held on by blue loctite and a fab of superglue hehe

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That strong? as to grab a slippery axle just like that?

Grec uses a whole fab of superglue, it’s gtg…

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Apparently it’s what it is made for. I am waiting for me to finish my enclosure and I will be able to report back if this works… (or maybe not if if doesn’t…) I remember someone from the forum who I had absolute confidence at the time telling me this, Also when I took apart my first garbage lead acid cell board the pulley was stuck on the shaft like this and was only removable with extreme heat.

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It works, but have a pulley remover tool on hand when it’s time to remove. Another option is to grind a flat spot and use a set screw, or two.

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And some serious heat. I have an electric plastic welding gun, (like a hot air gun) so temperature without the flames! I’ve removed one without a puller, just enough temperature to break it down.

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So if this works, it means goodby to screws, flat spots, keyways and axle grooves?

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exactly. my way of mixing some loctite into superglue is not recommended but it is SUPER permanent, heat and a pulley won’t even get it off. A key and keyway are still 100% necessary if you go this route

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I have no screws, or keys just the bearing retainer fluid in the picture. I’ll let you know how I get on when I can test it.

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http://www.machinebuilding.net/ta/t0418.htm

Some light reading.

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