That was the lesson learned. I wasn’t standing on it at the time and its a $500 repair. It’s in slow mode for the first time I ride it and I’ve got a good chunk of pads that I’ll be wearing.
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https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/726-IAUT260N10S5N01
100V, 1.5 mOhms Rdson each, with 2 in parallel there’s almost no heat and no voltage drop
and only $5 each 
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Mine was caused by a remote calibration issue, after I turned off the remote I was taking my helmet off and putting that in my bag then suddenly the thing takes off like it was suddenly possessed by a demon. I think the trim pot had been moved before I turned it on, which made the fail safe not right.
Anyway now I always lean it against a wall just in case and have sorted out the remote issue.
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I thought that was a sure thing too. But for some odd reason on one build I had, it would go full throttle after the remote turns off. Luckily I found out when the board was upside down on the wall rack. Fail safe checked so if remote is turned off whole throttle it would coast to a stop. I re-detected the motor and redid vesc settings and it didn’t happen again. Still paranoid about it though
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Nice! Any plans to share the gerbers?
https://easyeda.com/ninetailfox97/fused2
Definitely! Trying to make an open source reliable antispark to replace all those loopkeys. esk8 deserves to look cleaner 
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Those are $55 each pulley, more details can be found here: https://www.janux-esk8.com/htd5m-timing-pulleys
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Are they 3d printed?
Not a fan on 3d printed pulleys, all my pulleys are individually machined from solid rounds of Acetal Delrin
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that’s because failsafe isn’t set properly, right?
same here, ultra cautious when setting and running for the first time. after that though, don’t really think about it.
Awesome! I’m always looking for good reliable anti-spark switches.
I think those have been around for a while, not sure what underlying design it is, but I’d hazard a guess that’s it’s a vedder/fechter with upgraded fets
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I said reliable. 
Always turn your remote off and see what happens before you get on the board. It should go into “coast”. If not, don’t ride it yet
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the weird thing was that this was already done. I had it on the bench, turned off the remote mid throttle and the motor slowed to a stop. I’ve been on rides where I turned off the remote and had the board on for 10+ minutes. But one day it just started doing that. I tired it a few more times and it seems like there was a 25-30 second delay after the remote turns off and the motor goes full throttle. I think it had to do with the remote trim settings. It’s never happened again since. Now I just leave the board on and remote off for 10 minutes on the bench just to be sure.
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My question was kind of dumb, Im just interested in everyone’s opinion for the least faulty, best feeling remote is
I guess it doesn’t have to have a screen and uart data, I just need it to be reliable
E: changed the question before the pencil appeared, just to be clear. Lol
My mini remote ( the larger one, not the micro torqueboards one) started to act up randomly as well one day. It would always make my wheel quiver and twitch. No amount of throttle adjustments or vesc tampering helped… I wonder why they just decide to go ballistic 