The average Joe's solid cruiser - done - thanks for making it possible

Hey there,

I am a first year electronics student, currently living in Munich, Germany. Been lurking around this kickass forum for a bit and I think I am finally ready to hit you guys with some questions that I wasn’t able to easygoogle, also because I guess there is a lot of room for opinions.

This good old neversummer deck is about to be retrofitted with some e power and I am really desperate to get everything right on the first try. That said, I am quite an experienced Diyer, just not in the field of emobility.

Some quick background:

  • need good quality components that will last - i dont want to kick myself afterwards for cheaping out and getting crappy parts
  • dont have infinite Cash though … i guess my budget sits around 1k
  • 80kg pure muscle (I wish :wink: )
  • belt drive
  • dual motor setup to put less strain on components so i guess that means
  • dual vesc :-/ for the smooth ride
  • want decent torque, speed, range but no need for extremes. I think 25mph top speed with 20 mile range might be possible from what I read.
  • can receive shipments to either LA, Murica or Munich, Germany.

So right now I am kind of stuck in a couple of places because it is sooo hard to decide which parts are the best without any first hand experience. Would be awesome if you guys could help me out. Will edit this post as I get more info and make decisions.



BMS: piggybacked on @thisguyhere 's nice group buy and got a 10a charge only bestech d190 - 25€

Motors: Dual 6355 190kv Torqueboards I guess - 130€

Battery: 10s4p Samsung 30q - which thickness nickel strip do I need? Also is there a cheaper option than 4€ per cell from nkon incl tax. - 170€

Remote: Gt2b with sparkle printed mod looks really good. I need it to be small so the propulsion is harder to spot for cops. Munich is the worst when it comes to unnecessary police harassment. - 35€

Mount: @marcmt88 is making a veeeery nice one for me with dual idlers for insane braking power - 90€

Pulleys: I think my best option with the flywheels is currently still just grabbing some generic htd 5m pulleys off ebay and making them stick one way or another. Maybe by putting holes/threads in the right places for bolts. This doesnt solve the problem of distance between hub and pulley though. - 90€

Belts I dont know which length I need yet. Definitely 15mm. Would like to get steel reinforced ones. Any good tips on where to buy them?

Vedder Anti Spark, Switch, Cables, Connectors etc. - 50€

Wheels: Used Abec 107mm - 86€

Trucks: Torque 218mm. I know they arent the best quality but for now they will have to suffice. 45€

Enclosure: Kydex mold. - 30€

Charger: Banggood China Cracker - 30€

This makes up estimated 1000€ which hits my budget exactly. In order to blow it, Ill get a welder :smiley:

Please write down all your helpful thoughts!! Can’t wait to try this out for the first time after watching / reading all this hype. :v:

I would do dual 5065 rear-wheels-drive for the best stealth, under the deck. Don’t do single drive. Use FOCBOX and get sensored 140kv (torque) to 190kv (speed) motors, run in foc mode for near silent operation.

The first time you see someone selling 97mm ABEC11 flywheels, buy them asap. Unless you want new ones, but those can be fixed-up later. In fact I might even use 97mm clones then you can upgrade the wheels later. Reason being, the $1k gets you further if you don’t spend a lot of that on easily changeable things like wheels


Can get a set of caliber II 10" trucks new from for €42 euro shipped. They only have black though. Just got mine delivered today.

Sign up for the newsletter and get a 10€ off voucher. After you signup it asks for your birthday and they send you a second 10€ off coupon for your birthday.


You could get:

The Ronin trucks (with the red baseplate) as well as Popoca wheels (cheaper then ABEC11 97mm and available) from Ollin. You said you are a DIY’er so you should find a way to modify them to fit any mounts. Otherwise you could get the ABEC 11 90mm straight from Germany but they are overpriced! Evolve have them as well. Contact them, maybe they have the 97mm.

I feel like a red and black combination would look nice on this board.

Kegel pulleys (if you choose Ollin Popoca wheels), motor mounts(if you choose Caliber trucks), red motors and FOCBOX’s from Unikboards

10s charger from here, whitepony uses it, apparently its good.

For the remote, you could wait a little for the custom remote by Solidgeek, it’l be smaller then the GT2B and it should be reliable. But its down to your personal preferences.

Do you have access to a 3d printer and/or CNC machine?

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It’d blow the budget, but I can’t in good faith not mention carvon motors for stealthiness … Plus, they’re preorder only right now

@Eboostin has some Carvon’s for sale!!

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Okay thanx for all the advice so far! Trust me, I read about the Carvon v4 enthusiasts. The temptation is unreal but I would end up moving to a trailer park at the end of the month. Also I tend to be kinda clumsy at times and I can’t imagine messing up a 300$ motor on a curb stone.

Ollin 5065 200kv sounds pretty neat to me. Busy researching, how to mount two of those alongside each other. It is outside the 140-190kv range you suggested but two of those should still outboost a boosted right?

Wheels: good point. Will not go for the 110€ Abec ripoff.

I can get access to both 3d printer and Cnc if need be yes.

You can ask @johnny_261 for some quality pulleys

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Theres a seller on aliexpress wich sells 30q for around 3$ hes legit search him here somewhere is the link

5065 dual sounds good to me. Banggood have some for cheap and lots of people here use them. They have 140kv and 200kv either option will be good just depends what you want, speed or torque? As for the drive train if you want pulleys get at least 12mm so there is less slip or go for chains. Oh and if you want dual rear with those motors you will need to buy 218mm caliber clones from diy electric skateboard you could otherwise have a dual diagonal setup with on on the front and one on the back

Racerstar 5065 in 200kv is what I’ve used on 2 builds and they’ve been great so far. You’ll need wider trucks though. One build I used gullwing sidewinder 2 with evolve hangers and mounts. The other I used Tourque boards 218mm trucks. I have a spare set but they didn’t work out that cheap after import taxes. PM me if you were interested. I’ve also got a spare set of abec 11 97s, the price isn’t to everyones taste but they’re the best I’ve used.

I say fuck it and do a dual 6354 chain drive setup. Way quieter vs belts, plenty more power than most things on the consumer market. Stay the fuck away from hub motors until the technology gets better. 10S4P is pretty significant in weight, so I suggest changing the battery or investing in a handle.

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After ages of forum-time, youtube-time, waiting for parts-time and deliberating-time I am very proud to announce I finished this board and it came out awesome. Took a few hours of riding before I worked up the courage to pull full throttle. Has enough power for me to tow my friend uphill when practising downhill slides.

After I got the Riptide bushings and pivot cups, it became incredibly stable to ride.

Lessons I learned (in no particular order)

  • Kydex doesn’t really stretch. Should have made the enclosure split. Might still do that actually. This one came out a little weird on the ends because there wasn’t enough material.
  • Friends that seldom ride have a high risk of speed wobble
  • Apply lots of physical pressure to your spotwelds while welding
  • moving both front and back truck mounting holes 20mm towards the ends of the board completely changes the feel of your ride
  • Garage door seal is awesome enclosure sealing material
  • will continue as I think of more.

Planned Upgrades

  • might upgrade to 6374 motors since there is so much space left on the trucks
  • will install a 12pin charging port in order to measure cell drift without removing the enclosure and keep the bms outside.
  • nicely run the sensor cables through the enclosure

Final list of Parts and Cost

click here
Part Price
Deck Old Neversummer Deck 50
Trucks TorqueBoards 218mm 44
Wheels Abec11 107mm 120
Wheel Pulleys buildkitboards 44T12mm 65
Motor Pulleys diyelectric 16t steel 26
Belts 10x Aliexpress neoprene 24
Motor Mounts @marcmt88 universal mount 87
Motors TB 6355 190KV 133
BMS Bestech HCX-D190 Charge only 22
Anti Spark Switch @eLDoska 26
Charger Noname brick 5a 40
VESCs 2x Enertion Focboxes 164
Remote Enertion Nano-x 24
2x VESC Sensor Wires diyelectric 12
VESC Bluetooth Adapter buildkitboards 9
Battery Indicator ebay 7
Battery Cells nkon 160
Charging port Conrad 3
On/Off Buttoon Amazon 6
Bushings, Pivot Cups Rip Tide 28
Screws and rubber washers Home Improvement 6
Rubber Grommits for Phase wires Home Improvement 3
Risers Enertion 9mm 4
Kydex 300x600mm 22
Items that will last for future Builds
XT Connectors Aliexpress 10xXT60 6
Spot Welder Arduino V3 97
Silicone Wire Aliexpress 12awg 6m 10
Nickel Strip Aliexpress 10mmx0.2mmx10m 31
Heat Shrink Aliexpress 12
Cable Sleeve Aliexpress 4
Battery holders Aliexpress 10
Fishpaper Nkon 2
Sealing Material Home Improvement 10
Loctite Home Improvement 5
Kapton Tape Amazon 7
Shipping 31
Total 1310


















If you’re interested, i have two 6355 ST Sensored 190kV left, because I am going for 6374. If I were you I wouldn’t use TB unless you go dual 6374.

Flywheels I can get you very cheap anodized ones, just waiting for mine right now. For pulleys I recommend hug Technik. Belt width would be 9mm enough if you use 1 idler. I am 90kg and I only experience teeth skipping when braking hard and I do not use idlers. 12mm would be perfect.

Kydex Is very difficult to work with, since it is frickin slabby. Would only use if vaccum applied. Recommendation: @bigben.

Also, if you’re in need of a battery or you don’t want to do it yourself, hmu.

Charger I used is the Ansmann LCS 10 or sth like this, 2A 42V. EBay. 25€.

VESV: esk8 1.2 @esk8

Trucks I would use caliber 2 44•

Antispark: i dont like Switches, it seems they can fail sometimes, I would stay with a nice plug like the Amass XT90S or the AS150 like @Deckoz one.

BMS: Go EBay, Type 10S BMS, take the first one. Discharging through BMS not needed in my eyes.

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Wow, i was way too late

Good input though. I already have fixed plans for the next 2 boards.

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How do you guys prevent this filth from collecting on the bearing seal or how do you remove it without pushing it inside?

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