I wanted to share my build. This is the first custom board I have built and my first time experimenting with a project like this; much of the inspiration has come from previous builds posted on these forums so I figured I would contribute and put mine out there as well!
Complete list of parts:
- Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6 Plus
- (2) Turnigy 12000mA 6S Lipo
- (2) SAITE 150kV 63100 motors (ordered directly from the factory via alibaba)
- MBS Pro 97 Mountainboard - DW II (complete board w/ metal Matrix II trucks)
- (2) MBS 9" tires w/ Fivestar hubs
- Serpac 9.7 in. L x 8.2 in. W x 5.5 in. H Polycarbonate Clear Hinged Enclosure
- Flipsky Screen Remote VX2 Pro
- Suptig High Power Dimmable Waterproof LED
- Alex Tech 25ft – 1/2 inch Split Wire Loom Tubing Wire Conduit – Black
- Rubber neoprene door stoppers
- 10 AWG wire
- Heat shrink tubing
- 5.5mm bullet connectors
- XT90 connectors
- YXQ PG7 Waterproof Cable Gland Joints 4-7mm
- Awclub Waterproof Dustproof ABS Plastic Junction Box Transparent Cover
- GEREE LCD Battery Capacity Tester Indicator
- Lazy Dog Warehouse Neoprene Sponge Foam Rubber Sheet Rolls 1/4in
- 25ft - 1/2 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving
- 4 Way Electrical Junction Box, La Vane IP68 Waterproof 4 Way Cable Connector
The battery enclosure is a waterproof electrical junction box that has been plasti-dipped on the exterior/interior. I made two holes in the side of the box and used two cable gland joints to pass the wires through towards the rear of the board. The box is padded with foam that is glued to the inside and then the LiPos are wired in series to get 12S/12Ah. XT90 connectors were used to link the custom wiring to the battery set up and I wired a battery capacity tester over the batteries in series to get a rough idea of remaining battery life.
I put the junction box in the center of the board and drilled holes dead in the middle of the board to mount the box by the very center to make sure board flex was not going to be a problem. I put foam padding underneath the junction box to try and dampen vibration and make the contact between the board and the box more uniform.
The FSESC was mounted in another plasti-dipped junction box using velcro to secure it on top of a foam pad in the junction box. The battery power wires also force it down so hopefully it does not come loose. I am a bit worried about thermals since the heatsink of the FSESC is not directly mated to any metal/conductor and there is no airflow in the junction box.
I will see how hot the setup gets and possibly add fans for forced air cooling. The FSESC has a built in anti-spark switch which I housed inside another 1" cable gland joint and rigged it coming out the exterior of the junction box for a nice"on/off" switch.
Another two 1" cable gland joints are used on the back of the junction box the thread out the motor power/sensor wires from the box. This junction box was raised off the back of the board using rubber door stoppers that are velcroed to the board and then further secured using screws/nuts through the deck. This was to prevent vibration and angle to junction box away from the motors.
The motors are mounted using the e-toxx dual chain drive kit in 8-40 gearing. The motors were ordered custom from alibaba to get the 150kV. I used a mixture of braided sleeving, heat shrink tubing, and wire looms to cover/waterproof the wires throughout the rig and prevent them from being damaged. The whole electrical system is sealed and the connectors are filled with silicon to waterproof the wire inlets so this should be very weatherproof. I have mounted a go-pro mount on the front of the board which accepts a wide variety of battery powered LED lights. I had good luck finding a lot of compatible lights marketed as “underwater go pro LED”.
Hope this helps future builders!