The Jet Orca | Jet Spud 29" | 30Q 18650 11s3p | FOCBOX Unity | Avio Urethane Gear Drive | eBoosted Single Stack Jet Spud Enclosure | Hoyt Puck Remote | Proton Display Control Panel

Would randal baseplates have this feature? Also which edges on the base plate exactly? I was either going for a caliber or randal bp. Dont think the baseplate angle would have anything to do with the sharp edges on it

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Build’s looking great so far! Yeah give it another go. If the space on the area of the kingpin wasn’t there, I’d probably run into some issues but thankfully either way you try to run the wires through, it seems to be fine when stacking them over each other which is good

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@Jc06505n I didn’t see it mentioned in your thread: did you print your pulley covers yourself, and did you use PLA? I want to print some myself but I’m worried that PLA won’t stand the heat.

Thanks! (build is looking awesome!)

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I used 3DHubs to print them. 2 of them for a total of $20.63 with shipping.

I requested:

Generic Standard PETG 175 microns

I choose PETG because from what i read, it’s stronger than PLA.

Though I wish there was a version of these covers for 90mm wheels, I’m going to try to dremel them today to fit the Popocoas , but I would be much more comfortable just having covers that were printed to fit them…

I would remix them myself, but i don’t know much about 3d Designing to know if just shortening the length is enough. Someone like @Scoo_B_SK8 would know though.

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as far as altering would need to see better pic and explanation. It almost looks like you could swap pulley covers and possibly get a better fit???

as far as material; if all you have is PLA, crank the heat up on the nozzle (even past recommended on material info) i found that the object is much more rigid. (also slow your print down). PLA is better than taking a rock and superman’n it, but i would still keep an eye on it (cheap proto type material too,to see if needs mod)

PETG would be best for this application

ABS has some nice finishing qualities and generally more rigid, but will deteriorate in the sun without a protective coating.

if your handy with CAD try using this STL-2-CAD site, has tough time with complex objects

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Today wasn’t as productive since I had class and other matters to attend to. Tomorrow I’m going to go about dremeling my covers or modifying the STL file to accommodate 90/97/100/107 Wheel styles. I’m going to see about @Nordle’s advice

Measuring the distance between the Mount and where the Wheel Almost meets the cover should be enough right ?

A problem i encountered today was that the bolts I were using on the belt covers weren’t fitting on the motor mount. The Belt covers STL description say to use M4x20mm Bolts but nothing I’ve used fits. I first thought that the bolts that accompanied Jlabs Modular Pulleys were exactly that (which i still think are) , but the hole wasn’t being cooperative , so I went out any bought exactly a Silver M4x20mm and even they don’t fit. @JLabs @JuniorPotato93 any idea what bolts are suppose to fit the hole for the Belt cover on the motor mount ? Maybe I’ve Just acquired the wrong bolts ?

Edit: Think i identified the issues. I do have the wrong bolts. The Final version of the belt covers use M4x10mm not 20mm , welp another tip to the hardware store :smiley:. Any tools I should get ?

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Today, I’m going to focus on research, particularly, researching enclosure security. I started off a few days ago with velcroing the battery. So far its been pretty solid, with no sign of weakening. I’m having it go against the force of gravity but the next test will be how well it will do against vibrations.

Right now I’m looking into padding options.

@Toughook

How is your padding working out for you? Any irregular or heat issues?

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Didn’t get much headway into research , got distracted.

But I’m looking st Soundproofing Foam as an alternative to Neoprene. Neoprene is flammable so I’m looking for an adhesive foam with the same properties + flame resistance. Just in case this goes wrong I want to be able to try and contain it.

Did a small test of whether or not the Build would fit in an Obed Bag, particularly the Giver , the biggest they offer I believe. The verdict? No:

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The deck is too wide, I’ll probaly look into commissioning Charles to make a bag that can fit the Orca.

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thanks for measuring this up @Jc06505n! I was actually contemplating ordering an Obed for my build but since the deck I’m using is bigger that means its no good for me as well.

You can search around older threads, I believe @psychotiller mentioned somewhere that he used off the shelf velcro and its never failed him. He’s actually going to be providing me with the ones he uses to strap my components down, I doubt it would perform any different for me but I’ll let you know much later on if you’re interested in performance

You need to get an extended velcro strap, it’ll fit and its strong enough to carry my 12s4p Spud.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0TTU1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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That Looks like a viable solution. If I wasn’t a lazy bum, I would consider it

http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/feels-bad-man-template.jpg

Right now I’m trying to use Fusion 360n to edit the STL file for the motor covers but I have no idea what I’m doing. :smiley: I just want to decrease the width (to fit 90mm wheels)

Help?

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It’s been a while since the last update (2 whole months actually) so here’s been what’s up:

  1. I fractured my Arm (a Radial Head Fracture) in October, so it’s been an early ESK8 season retirement for me. By the time my arm is healed, it’ll be snowing in NY meaning ESK8 season is over here, I’ll still probably be working on my board, but won’t be able to ride or do a proper test. But in that intermediate time, there will be some upgrades!

  2. During the 2 months long wait a few stuff has going on. For starters, I had my deck sent to @briman05 to paint and glass frit. For those who don’t know, Brian does some really badass deck designs and shows them off without compromising them using glass frit. I encourage everyone to check out his work

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Also needed a nice remote since I haven’t been able to get ahold of a custom firefly yet so the guys at Hoyt Boards hooked me up

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I tried fiddling around with my focboxes and ensuring that my METR Pro was working. I did an update via TCP Bridge and was successfully able to. Since I had everything but a remote I decided to do some motor detection when the weirdest thing happened: the bootloader on one of my focboxes got wiped. Had to send them to @JohnnyMeduse to get that fixed as well as another weird issue

Think I’m gonna stick to doing motor detection via USB from now on.

Since it’s so close to the Unity “Shipping” date (one I’m hoping is accurate) the focboxes will probably be backups in case the unity ever kicks the can.

Upgrades

I’ve decided to upgrade the drivetrain from a belt drive to the Aortal Gear Drive by @nuttyjeff, since I want to run dual 6355s, I’m going to run Extended Calibers in the back and Normal Calibers in the front. If given the option, I want to use Kegal Wheel Adapters and run @torqueboards 110mm wheels (but only if they come in black, if not I’ll have to settle for either dying Boa Wheels or using ABEC ) since the Popocoas won’t give enough clerance.

Might also take advantage of the sale from Build Kit Boards

I’m still waiting on @Wajdi’ Proton Control Panel as that’s going to be my Battery Indicator, but I still am concerned that I’m going to step in it due to the limited room on the Spud… @moon do you think it’s possible to create a cover for it so that stepping on it won’t be an issue? I’ll of course pay for the needed materials and what not.

That’s pretty much everything as my arm heals back I’ll start working on the build again!

Question though, The glass frit is very susceptible to being marked white from scratches, any way to clean it up?

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Pm me, completely out the loop

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@sender , is this something you can help

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It’s actually probably stupid, I don’t even know if the Proton has room to make a case to cover the screen so I can step on it.

Maybe the VEGA is worth looking into…

For anyone with a Spud, has anyone been able to use inserts so that no screws show up on top? I fear that the deck is too thin and I’ll end up having to drill into it anyway

Is that dashboard all touchscreen?

I’m using these on the spud:

uxcell 8mm Length Stainless Steel 305 Type Self Tapping Threaded Insert 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EV31W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_myX9BbZZRHPVX

Yeah

And those don’t show up on top? Have any pics?

I’ll get kegel wheel adapters done soon! haha! The initial batch will only come with ABEC adapters though (these adapters have been tried and tested for over 400km, so i’m only willing to release this for now.) :smiley:

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You can probably spray or brush on some waterbased spar urethane on the spots that get scratched. What scratched it though?

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