So like if you could design the perfect electric skateboard truck for all of us DIY guy or for a quality setup what would it look like? What features would it have?
I figure a rpk due to the stability, 165-220mm widths… a place for a motor mount any rake? what shape for the hanger to mount too is best? height compared to regular skate/longboard trucks? what angle/s?
A milled aluminum hanger with at least 5 facets (none round) for motor clamps. 220mm to 250mm adjustable by using threads axles and lock pin/grub screw. Adjustable geometric from 30deg to 50deg with at least 2 set screws and a lock pin/screw. Maybe a milled in motor clamp, not sure how I feel about that.
All that for $50 a set. I’ll take 4 sets right now.
I love all this “milled” stuff and then $50, hahahaha yer a funny guy…
How about a 19mm square around the axle for motor mounts?
and adjustable 180mm to 195mm? not large enough? or are you talking AT setups too? I’m think skateboard only here, not AT tires…
I’m leaning to 35 degrees and 45 degrees, maybe 50 for the front truck, adjustable angles have been done by a lot of companies like Don’t Trip and Surfrodz, but when I think about it, once you have your angle dialed, do you really ever change it? Why have the added complexity of adjustable angle for tuning? Something to add parts and bolts that need to stay tight, no thanks, I prefer to pick the best angle to begin with now based on experience to reduce complexity, but I’m a huge KISS designer…
no rake suggestions?
Are chanel (Trampa style ) trucks better? Are they more accurate in steering? Maybe a street lighter version of it with standard mounting holes?
I try 
Therese a lot of things I’d do to make the perfect truck but unfortunately its not a “one-size fits all” scenario.
A square would be good, but 5 facets would be better with at least 2 grub screws.
There’s a lot of grey area between skate and AT setups these days. I have a street deck Im building right now that I might put 7in MBS wheels on, still a skate setup just big ass tires for rough cracks. If we are talking purely traditional thane, Id say 177 to 195 should be plenty of adjustment.
I like the adjustable angle so you can adjust for speed or stability based on riding conditions, but what you say about dialing is true as well. I’m not sure how much I would use adjustable geometry , sounds cool though.
Adjustable makes only sense if you use hub motors, otherwise, the motor mounts have to be adjustable too. I would just do a baseplate with two hole pairs (50 and 45 degree), 35 is way to low for big motors and belt drives.
It will going to be expensive! Most esk8ers don’t want to spend much into trucks, a few even don’t wanna buy Calibers! Not sure how much mass-production will knock the price down but it won’t be cheap. I am currently building a set for myself, because I need a wide hanger (235 mm) for my 6384 motors 
If machining trucks could it have an additional rail to prevent the mount from rotating up and down but still slide in and out.
A milled cast aluminum hanger with at least exactly 5 milled facets on both sides (none round) for motor clamps. 220mm to 250mm adjustable by using threads axles and lock pin/grub screw. Adjustable geometric from 30deg 10deg to 50deg with at least 2 set screws and a lock pin/screw. Maybe a milled in motor clamp, not sure how I feel about that.
With a forged steel axle that is no shorter than 305mm and has a diameter not less than 10mm but preferably 12mm, stepping to 10mm, stepping to 8mm at the ends.
All that for $50 $80 USD a set pair. I’ll take 2 sets pair right now.
See, now we are talking!!
Not quite as tall as a Paris, but taller than a caliber.
Slightly offset hangar so you can flip it if you’re into that.
Square hangar profile, so you can install the axles easily, and torque them down to industry specs.
Make two lengths of hangar, because it’s ridiculous having a super wide wheel track on a 9" wide skateboard.
chromoly axle studs of various widths and lengths screw into the hangar to customize them for your needs.
8 or 10mm axle studs and options that are long enough for a bearing for the pulley.
Hers where it becomes worth it.
A matched clamp that’s not a clamp. Interference fit. I.e. the hangar is square, and the #notaclamp (NAC) is square, the NAC is a couple thou’ smaller than the hangar
*not sure if 0.002" is a big enough difference. A machinist would know…
Freeze the hangar, heat up the NAC then put it where it goes.
To take it off, freeze the whole hanger and heat the NAC and pull, maybe with a umm…puller.
You could have a 3D printed actual clamp, for mockup so you can dial everything in and scribe a line on the hangar before installing the never ever going to move or come loose #notaclamp.
Motor plates: Need to make them long, for pneumatics, with their big pulleys. And shorter, for large 97/107 thane. And shorter yet, for 80mm ect.
Idks about baseplate angles…
I’m not sure whether to say that’s awesome or say that’s terrible. It’s definitely not anywhere in the the middle LoL. Interesting.
Gold anodized Surf Rodz TKP 10mm Hex with 200mm hangars.
Unfortunately they only make 177mm, which almost fit dual 6374’s. If they made a 200mm hangar I’d plunk down the cash right now.
Do you really want a tkp truck for a high powered, high speed electric skateboard though? Or don’t you think a rkp would lend better for stability sake?
I have a buddy who dislocated both shoulders on surfrodz TKP at 30mph, it is not a high speed truck and will buck you before you knew what hit you.
Depends on if you want high speed. I’m nice and comfy at 15-20mph, and as an old guy who doesn’t heal as quickly as some of the whippersnappers out there I’m fine with just chuggalugging along. I just want dual 6374 for bridge climbing as we have alot of them where I live.
The TKP’s are carvy, really carvy. I just changed up the bushings to 95a Riptide WFB’s. Barrels boardside and tall barrels roadside - dampened the trucks a bit. Now I just need to play with the kingpin to get them where I want.
all our motors, with a pulley drive or direct, are putting a torque between the hanger and base plate and I find it wears out the little plastic nub cup that the nub of the hanger sits in on the base plate. Not the end of the world but they wear out fast and end up loose. If looking for the perfect truck maybe a different material nub cup with fiberglass reinforcement would be more appropriate
how bout the hanger with the motor mount attached as one piece. transfer heat better and cant come loose
You mean the “pivot cup” yes, those are important, Riptide actually makes nice replacement ones for Calibers and most trucks, I recommend upgrade them in all your trucks, it just makes them work better and the cups last longer. For eskates get the highest duro you can https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/38391/riptide-pivot-cups
I actually love the surfrodz for pool, park and pushing…I have a set on my pushing deck because I cannot push that fast and they are carve like a dream at slow speeds. I have them spinning some Turbo wheels from Skatekings which are super fast and roll for days. the surfrods are perfect for this setup and keep it nice a low while giving me enough turn for it to remain practical, these trucks are also perfect for the front on a LDP setup, they behave like a Bennet Vector, the opposite of stable, let’s call them “lively” lol, a TKP with longboard barrels and tapered bushing cup and enough rake to call it sidewalk surfing…they are a cool truck, just unique to a few good uses…I can’t think of a better truck for ditch riding actually…maybe the Bolzen rpk with it’s rake, but it’s more for dancing
i would love to see more solutions like Ronins or firetrucks, that thing works.
I am currently running Avenue precision suspension trucks very similar to the Ronins and Fyres…I am looking to improve the design… I’ll show the “queen-pin” one of these days once I gain permission…But I’m currently riding 35 degree rear, 55 degree front, both suspension base-plates and precision 165mm hangers with queenpin, so yeah, these are the shit, they exist, I’m working on making them available for you guys too, but right now the prototyping cost is not something you are willing to pay, trust me, but yer right man, the design like the Fyres and Ronins are where it’s at…throw in the benefits of suspension as well though…lol
