Hi everyone! Welcome to my build thread!
I can finally start my first build and there by my build thread as all the parts finally arrived!
I started this project with the mindset of doing a budget build, however I quickly realized that I would have head to sacrifice on way too many parts and features to truly make it a budget build. So after even more reading her on the forum I change my mindset and re did my plan completely so I could get the most out of my esk8! I really wanted a slim stealthy board that still head sufficient range and power. There for I opted for parts that would make that a reality, and parts from awesome guys her on the forum that provide quality parts from there shops, mad props to you guys!
Thanks to everyone her on the forum!
And a special thanks to these guys who personally help me a lot!
@Okami, @treenutter, @ninja, @longhairedboy
Parts list, price and links
the last number correlates to the picture below
Local Skate Shop
• Orangatang Kegels80mm 80a |65€| 1
• Bones reds bearings |26€|6
• Caliber 2 trucks |63€| 7
• Unik Smart Series motor mount |64€| 2
• Unik ring from Smart Series kegel gear pulley |16€| 3
• Esk8.de VESC 4.12 |149€| 11
• Esk8.de 6374, 200kV, 3,3KW, sensored motor |119€|16
• Esk8.de 32 teeth wheel pully for Kegel |54€| 19
• 4x Zippy flightmax 8000mah 2S1P 30C | 29€ (116€)| 9
• 5x XT60 connector |4€| 14
• XT90-S |4.5€| 18
• Black/Red 1m 12awg wire |3€| 12
• Lipo Voltage Checker |2.5€|
• 2x Countersunk washer 8pcs |1.5€|
• 2x countersunk hex screws 10pcs |0.6€|
• Wire mesh guard 2m |1.3€|
• 22 AWG wire 3 colors 2m |2.4€|
• SuPower (Battery supports) 33.6V 8S battery Charger |43€| 4
• SuPower (Battery supports) 8s 60A BMS |35€| 5
• 2x HTD 5M belt 270mm long 15mm wide |8€| 10
• 2.4 Ghz mini remote with receiver |20€| 13
• JST- 3pin wire extension 10 pcs |2€| 15
• HTD 5M 15 teeth, 16mm wide, 10mm bore motor pully |4€ | 17
• JST 2.0 PH 6-pin 30 cm |2€|
Total cost: 806€
Modification to the rear truck:
will update as the build progresses this week! feel free to ask anything about the parts i picked or what ever i do during this build and i will try to answer as best as i can!
Cheers from Sweden!
Id love to know how you’re going to make it slim and stealthy.
I am looking to make a minimalistic looking board as well
Where will you source the kydex?
How did the board turn out?
the plan is to use those 2s 8000mah batteries as they are very thin only 1.9-2.0 cm and if i can keep that the thickest part of the enclosure then that is really slim at lest according to me.
ther are different ways of making a slim board some make ther own decks and inbreed the batteries in the deck. however that ofc makes the board it self thicker. you can go to the extra mile and separate lipo packs and make a super thin board but I din’t fine that necessary.
looks super cool but for me it was to much work and a bit to low range
I sourced the kydex from a Swedish online knife making store, don’t think they ship outside of Sweden
Damn… the best I found so far is 30x30 and that’s perfect for knives but very small for enclosures. Thank you anyway.
My board is rather small so the 30x60 sheet I bought will suffice for me, sadly I don’t know another seller of kydex that size or bigger other than the one I bought my from. Your best bet is probably eBay or Alibaba.
soldered the 2S 8Ah zippys in to my 8s 8Ah pack! was harder then expected to solder because of the super thick zippy 8 awg wires from the batteries. I am still satisfied whit the end result my pack will be flat and fitt relly nice under my board. It will be 340x135x20mm in size.
@m4almbergs glad to help! Keep us posted on the build!
Almost done with the lipo bms pack now ! all i need to do now is hook up the main pack minus to the bms.
I also color coordinated the connections to stop future stupid me from f******up
I also did a schematic of my build, which i keep an eye on when i am building.
I know super ugly and not proportional, it is only for me to keep track so i don’t solder anything wrong. And mayby it can help some one else
May I ask why you chose to go with a Kydex enclosure?
And, as a fellow Swede looking to do his first build, I am looking for good European suppliers, any tips (other than the ones you have listed)?
Hi I choose too use kydex because it was that or abs plastics, and the abs plastic needs vacuum forming to get a good result while kydex don’t. To be honest I don’t know why kydex is not used more her on the forum, it is stronger and you can get great results without the need of vacuum forming.
The only other eu seller I know of on top of my head besides the ones I already mentioned is alien power systems.
Cool, so if I get the basics correct (just speed read an article on instructables), the main difference is that I won’t need a vacuum to form this after warming it up?
Seems like an interesting material!
I finally got some time to work on the board and here is the progress i made!
I shortened the vesc to make more room in the enclosure. Which would prove to be needed!
I also got every thing weird up according to the schematic i made earlier, I tried to keep every wire as short as possible so they wouldn’t take up to much space. I also heatshrinked the bms to protect it.
yhea so rigth now its is a complete mess but will ofc make it as tidy as posibell
I also have a few quick questions that i would love if some one could clear up for me.
dose any one know if the battery-supports bms can overheat? was it a mistake to heatshrink it?
how do you guys secure every thing in place? was thinking about just putting some hotglue dabs one the corners of the different components. I don’t want to use Velcro as it will add thickness to my slim surfer
3 I relly want to keep it as small and thin as possible, however I am starting to fear that the cramped space will make it to hot for the VESC or even the batteries, should I be worried or will it probably be fine? I have seen both small enclosures and big airy ones have VESC overheating issues, dose the enclosure size matter for VESC temps?
tested my battery pack by charging it and it din’t work… After some quick troubleshooting I realized the fault was probably in the Battery supports Charger so i opened it up and immediately found what was wrong! A bad solder joint as shown on the picture below.
so luckily it was just a quick fix
After my first successful charge i can answer my own question in my earlier post: no the Battery supports BMS did not get hot at all!
I also created two flat-spots on the motor shaft so the grub screws in the motor pulley could hold the pulley tighter to the shaft.
I ( what i believe ) properly installed my drive train butt something seems of… No matter how i position the motor pulley on the motor shaft the belt want to move away from the center of the board, rubbing against the edge of the motor pulley. When the drive train spins in the opposite direction it want to move in towards the center of the board rubbing against that edge of the motor pulley. Already tried switching to another belt same thing. something is not right butt what? any one know what causes this to happen?
The engine mount is crooked
the raw trucks was very unprecise
put a heat shrink tubing on the truck
where the engine mount comes from
It is enough 1mm that the belt goes wrong
if the Motor mount is not straight.
Nice build! Thanks for all the links:-)