Torqueboards 218mm Bushing setup, what do you run?

ESK8 Mechanics
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Currently tested my dual 6374, 10s4p setup on my TB 218mm Trucks.

Ran Caliber II before along with Orange Nipples Bushings(soft), and been really nice to run on.

Decided to use them on the TB 218mm trucks and damn they are unstable ! Tried tighten them, abit better but still noway close to my caliber setup in terms of being stable!

What do you guys run bushingwise?

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Pretty sure your question is answered here somewhere.

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I put 96a riptide pivot cups front and back with 96a double barrel at the back and 93a double barrel at the front.

I’m 90kg and I certainly wouldn’t go any harder but it’s solid at 43km/h and turns pretty well.

Edit: 95a at the back sorry

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Im currently floating around 75kg and the soft nipples(lol) has been really good for me up until the wider trucks for some reason. Used them both front and back.

may try harder at the rear!

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I was getting speed wobbles over 40. I could probably go softer but I’m happy

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Yeah great thread, totally missed that :blush: ! thanks mike!

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I don’t know how stable or not TB218 trucks are stock. First thing I did was swap out the bushings for Venom barrels and double barrels… Higher rebound bushings in the front and bushings with much less rebound in the back (more dead feeling) to dampen the wobbles from the rear.

I also printed out these little stability keys out of Nylon. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855766 They work great to improve stability and manuverability on my other trucks, and my TB218s are super stable above 40MPH and turn great. It’s suprising how much slop they remove just wiggling the trucks back and forth with and without them.

I also spoke about some of the other stability improvements I’ve made to my trucks here if you are interested… Like for example if your bushings have any play around the kingpin and you are using flat washers or cup washers that don’t hold your breath center, it does not help to hold your trucks center either, resulting in slop, unpredictability, and instability.

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Very interesting read, thanks!

Thoose stability keys seems like a great change ! The slop you are talking about was literally the first thing I felt.

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If I paid you, do you think you could ship a set of those stability keys to me? I don’t have a 3D printer :frowning:

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Yes. I’ll shoot you a PM now.

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I got yellow venom eliminator rear boardside, orange freeride barrical cone front boardside, white bones hardcores roadside both sides as far as the bushings go. I also wedged the front end +5 and swapped the rear baseplate with a 35° randall baseplate wedged +7. I used riptide pivot cups always! This setup has taken me about 5 months to get dialed in and it is soooo worth it.

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I run fat barels and fat cones from brad over at riptide, 93.5a and 95a wfb formula… forgot to add tht, also I’m a bigger guy so that’s why I need “harder” bushings

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Blood orange insert bushings! a must have. That and then the hard riptide bushings road side (green, can’t remember durometer)

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@BigBrit there is a 97.5a and a 70a green but I also think it depends on the formula because my green wfbs are 95.5a

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I run harder rear bushings with cupped washers, then in the front softer bushings with flat washers. All barrel.

I have both front and rear wedged to 55 deg, but that’s only cause there is a few sharp hairpin turns on my commute. If I wanted more stability over 30mph I would de-wedge the rear to 45 deg.

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Making sure the kingpin doesn’t move seems to help. I epoxied some grade 8 kingpins in place. Doesn’t make sense why stock are not pressed in.

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