Riptide pivot cups are sweet. Need to get the caliber 2 ones though.
might try these.
how do they improve, like what characteristic is changed with the pivot cups?
Cast is not true. Precision is milled and has perfect symmetry. Stronger… Typically a precision truck has no slop. Ie
- bushing seat is perfectly sized for the bushing lip
- pivot nose is a perfect circle
- kingpin opening is symmetrical for even turning. All these together can make a truck sloppy or really true…
They make your lean more predictable. The glide inside the stock ones can be kinda jerky at times. Also they have a dampening effect compared to the stock plastic ones.
You are the real deal! Thanks bud!
I’ve got these in my tb 218’s and they feel way better than the originals, way smoother. I’ve also got some red riptide bushings as well.
I think Mike is asking what is the difference between a standard and precision cups, not the trucks. That is kind of obvious.
And for the record you always go for the hard nipples!
Not sure where you saw this advertisement but the top one is for the Caliber “Standard” TKP truck and the one below is for Caliber I RKP trucks (I am guessing here). The TB 218 takes the Caliber II pivots and Caliber precision trucks take a different pivot. Please send me the link so we can correct them
Thanks for the update. I ended up finding Caliber II pivot cups from a local skate shop. That image was from Amazon
Sounds good i just bought the 218mm and im looking for bushings and pivot cups? what would you guys recommend in Europe
Can theese be used i never bought bushings before so i dont know? https://www.skatehut.co.uk/brands/bones_wheels/bones_hardcore_bushings_hard_4_pack.htm
I’m just going to put this here since it deals with TorqueBoards 218mm truck stability: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855766
How do you mount the bushings, with the cone up or down on both?
Find and read the bushing thread…
the terminology is board side, road side.
ah… i put the cone bushing road side, barrel bushing board side. the top end of the cone bushing should always face roadside. this is on my smaller, more nimble mono drive board.
the faster dual drive one i use barrel bushing on both sides, but the soft duro roadside.
hope that made sense.
but like squish said, read the bushing thread, the man that actually makes them has some great info:
I tried these little rings or “keys” as they are called. Made a massive difference to the precision of the handeling. Allowing me to run looser trucks and be more stable at high speed. Win win. Makes sense as there is so much play around the king pin, if you pick your board up by one side of the front truck you can see how much play there is that does not translate to steering, this gets rid of almost all that slop.
And the regular stuff in order of importance.
- quality bushings
- non symmetrical angles
- don’t use soft risers
Riptide 96a pivot cups make a huge difference. I also run the Miure skate almost presicion kit and I have various bushing durometers on my trucks, I am.still carvy and turns very well but I’m still rock rolid flying over obsticles at 30+mph
hello, how can i get some of these? i can see my TB trucks wobble a tiny little bit pass 15mph. i think its that slop you talk about. thanks in advance.
also, i have 1\2 inch risers on evo 39. does that affect stability somehow ?
Talk to @Alphamail about bushings, get some caliber base plates, this is what worked for me.
I did in the bushing setup thread, i got barrels rear and front with cupped washers and they feel so much better than stock bushings. but the little shaking like movements im talking about idk how to stop them, harder or tight bushings reduce them at expense or not being able to turn at low speeds lol. but do not eliminate them.