I have attached a short video which allows you to hear the click. Any ideas where to start looking (I can;t tell if it is coming from the motor, the wheels, the bearings, etc. I have not yet taken the back-end apart (it came pre-built). I was hoping to have a starting point before taking everything apart. I have only used this board twice, and have put about 35 miles on it.
PS: The video will be below somewhere.
Hard to tell without taking it apart. At least get the belt off, which would allow you to determine if it’s the wheels or the motor/drive train. If the noise stops, ride on it for a small distance. Might be the tension of the belt that exposed an issue that can otherwise be simulated by some weight on the board (when it comes to noisy wheel bearings).
Don’t have the same motor mounts, but clicking in my case was caused by play in between the hub and the bearings. I grease it up every now and then to stop the noise.
Thanks. SO you use grease on the bearings and that fixes it? I tried tightening the belt and it does seem to have an effect on the noise, but only temporary (the belt is meant to be somewhat lose, right)? Will white lithium work on bearings?
If it is the same issue, yes. White lithium is what I used.
Should be able to press down the belt with your finger a bit. But let’s be clear, you should not have clicking noises even with tight belt tension. Only loosen it further or completely remove it to diagnose the issue. I would take the belt off to stop the motor from spinning. Spin the wheel, ride it for a bit. Still happening? It’s your hub bearings. Not happening? Motor or perhaps the belt tensioner / drive train.
Came across a other thread where the grub screw of the motor pulley was loose causing a clicking noise. Another thing to check.
That click sound creates a little vibbation. Continue to make the sound as you put your fingertips in different places. It’s a beginning to locate where the sound comes from! Good luck!
The motor pulley is a bit lose, the key, preventing pulley slip does the clicking. Re-Tighten the grup screw on the pulley with locktite.
frank
Thanks Frank. Both wheels click, so I will take them off and tighten the key as you suggested.
I have a quick question that I think you should be able to answer Frank. I bought a 120Amp anti-Spark on/off switch for my Trampa board. The board that I received from you has 50amp fuses throughout the battery and Anti-Spark wiring. Since I no longer need that Anti-spark wiring, do I still need the 50amp fuses in the new wiring that I solder in to the new on-off switch? I am hoping to eliminate much of the wiring that came installed on the board (it is hard to close the monster battery case with all that wiring, so I plan to create a new battery box using Plexyglass and will install the on-off switch, the batteries as well as a battery LCD monitor all within the new box)? I am using 4 * 6200mah 40C LiPo’s.
To keep it short. A FUSE is always a good idea. I would fuse the batteries individually.
Frank
So one 50amp fuse on each positive wire for each of the four batteries (4 batteries, so 4 fuses total)? Thanks a ton for your help Frank. Maintaining these boards wouldn’t be possible for new builders without the help of this forum (this forum makes it quite easy!).
Hi Frank,
I just sent an email to Ted but thought I would send one to you in case you can get something shipped out quickly.
I pulled both wheels apart tonight and fixed one side (you were right, the hex key was loose on both sides), but one side has an issue. The key is stripped, so I cannot loosen it (the motor pulley was already lose, so it slides right off the motor axle, but now I cannot get the hex key off the motor pulley because the hex key is stripped. Two other screws were stripped (two of the small screws that attach the carbon fiber pulley frame), and I know I didnt strip them because I have never touched these screws until tonight. Can you please send me a motor pulley with the hex key (I can’t get the hex key out of this pulley, therefore I cant use it)? Also, two of the small/short screws that attach the carbon fiber pulley cover are stripped. Since buying this board from Trampa, I have come across about half a dozen screws that were stripped (and I didn’t strip them, which means whoever put this motor/wheel assembly together, stripped some screws in the process, including the hex key on one side). I ordered a bunch of screws and spare parts from Trampa two weeks ago but did not order the hex or these two other screws. I wished your tech guys would undo stripped screws and not ship them out to us like that. It’s a major pain in the ass to fix. Sorry to vent, just frustrated.
It seems that the hex screw that holds the motor pulley to the motor axle is a weak point on this board. Both motor mounts were clicking, and I have only ridden this board for about 40 miles (this board is amazing in the grand scheme of things, but so far it seems that I have been repairing it more than riding it). It takes hours to fix that clicking sound, and I imagine that it will start clicking again within another 40 miles?
Can you please put together these parts for me and ship them to my house. Ted has my addres. I purchased this board from Trampa about 2 months ago, or less (and paid much$$$).
Thanks for your help. Even with the repair hassles, this board is still better, and more fun to ride, than my Evolve Carbon GT. I’ve probably sold a couple just from talking to people around town. I just wished the board included a bunch of spare parts. It takes a week or two to order things from Trampa (overseas). Cheers. Brett
No Problem! The Screws are A4 Stainless and that stuff is soft. I usually heat up the small screws before trying to loosen them. This heat will melt the glue. Solderiron in the head for a couple of seconds…
So you need a couple of the M4 housing screws and a pulley with grub screw.
Most people actually glue their pulleys in position. Some blue locktite on the motor shaft and the mount the pulley. This is solid, but disassembly is some times a bit painful. You need to heat up the pulley to get it down.
Frank
Alright, thanks for the info Frank, good to know. I’ll be sure to do that next time, but honestly, a few of these screws were already stripped before I even touched them. Anyway, I guess that is part of building skateboards like these. Thanks for your help (and Ted’s)! Cheers, Brett