Trampa Street Carve NYC Style

Yeah, you definitely need spacers for the front truck, at the moment I’m using washers to fill the gap

That’s exactly what I though when I saw that video, there’s no way this guy is going to try this ride ever again, I suffered from just seeing it it is just there to proof a point, you could have done that with any wheel.

@kaly can you post a picture of the crack?

I have spacers for it but where you put the spacers can have alot to do with the vibration and the whole breaking of the hanger. Atleast thats my opinion. Another thought is maybe that 1 specific hanger was bad and in time it showed up. Of course these are just my thoughts on it. Wont really know untill kaly can figure it out. My question is does anyone else have this set up and is experiencing this exact issue?

Kaly have build several street carvers, it’s a hot seller

…not just 1 bad Lambjr088…Both of Kaly’s boards are experiencing same fractures .

Here is the picture @Eboosted @Randyc1 @halifax21

A closer look

As you can see is a curved fracture, this are cause by a resonance wave, the source of this wave is the question to answer. Have in mind that resonance waves have even taken down bridges, planes and broken other type of equipment.

In my opinion and this is not trying to put anybody product down, the small contact patch does not allows for proper propagation of the impact wave through the mass of the urethane, the wave transfer with all its intensity onto the hanger and there is where it dissipates all its energy.

It is like taking a punch, by pulling back the smallest distance you take away the a big amount of impact force.

The normal RKP does this via the bushing on the kingpin and cup, so even using any type of wheel this mechanism dissipate the wave.

The Trampa truck design is different. It can take more blunt abuse than the normal RKP.

But when using urethane, needs to have a big contact patch of the wheels, to help with the dissipation of the shock waves into the mass of the urethane.

I’ll try to get a set of this wheels to a lathe, then we will tested once more, meanwhile I have a set of 97mm abec11 and pneumatics too.


Kaly some of your builds use other wheels correct ?,…if so those will have to be monitored also for these fractures ?

Is yr other board fracture in tbe exact same spot?

If I may interject into this conversation, I have the MBS wheels on my @longhairedboy board for quite some time and have probably put at least 500 or more miles on them, I can totally see the issues @Kaly had for his board. These wheels were wonderful at the beginning, but after a while they deteriorate greatly. I actually felt vibration more the more mileage i put on these wheels.

Another big concern I have with the deterioration is grip factor. They become less grippy the more stress you put on them. A few weeks ago, the board slip right under my foot and I fell forward onto my knees while I was trying to accelerate from standing position, something which has never happened on my Abec11 97mm before. I think these wheels works wonderfully for the first 250 miles or so when use on roads but after they deteriorated, where the center dimples are almost even due to stress, you should switch them out for another sets. Personally, i have 3 boards with diff wheels configuration and I can tell you that the pneumatics can really take a punch and is probably the best bang for your bucks when you use it for city full of cracks and potholes like NYC.


Everyone with a board has been notified.

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Back on track !!

Got to love the 2 in 1 concept Will finish destroying the other hanger FOR SCIENCE then will install another truck and put back the abec11 and will keep an eye open for that one.


Are you going to test the rubber spacer @Frank recomended, as much as I love the pneumatics feeling on bad roads I don’t like them at all on this eye candy trampa board, the MBS wheels look like they belong to the street carver board.

I really hate we don’t have any wheel options on the market

I can give it a try.

But I think that using a lathe to fasten the wheels, they can be use and keep the wide look :eyes:

Nate, … what Trucks do you ise in conjonction with your 500 miles on MBS wheels ?

Have you inspected them for fractures similar to Kaly’s

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I think its the Enertion trucks, motor mount paired with the SK3 6374 motors. I haven’t really notice any cracks or fractures on them when I was cleaning them weekly. It’s in the shop for repair and possible upgrade with @longhairedboy right now so its probably better to ask him for that info.

I’ve riden 2 boards each with more than, 800 miles on Caliber trucks and MBS wheels, no fractures on any of the trucks at all.

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@Kaly you have 2 different boards with same set up and both those boards have the same fracture in same spot?


Hi @Nate, thats what I mean, you think everything is perfect until the part splits. Having had no issues for 800 miles doesn’t mean your board will be fine at mile 900.

Google “broken longboard truck” and you will see: Nothing is lasting for forever.

Vibrations are your enemy No.1. Try to avoid them, by riding top spec urethane and tweaking your equipment relative to the road conditions: horses for courses!

The difference in the wheel urethane is substantial. In skateboard language dampening is called “rebound”. Some urethane has 40% dampening, others 80% Making a 70 to 80% “rebound” wheel costs more than twice than making a cheap 40% one. The difference in your ride is astronomic. Twice the dampening = 10 times the comfort. If you ever tried in line skates, you know the difference between good and bad wheel sets. the first thing you realize riding good wheels is: silence Noise = is sound waves emitted from vibrating parts.

I don’t know what urethane the MBS wheel is made of, I don’t own a set, so you guys have to judge the quality. All I can say is: We use the top spec urethane and had ZERO issues in all the years we sell the board.

@Note: So the resonance just chose another spot to chew in. I prefer cracks to happen and grow, so you can see the issue before things split. Aircrafts get markings on tiny cracks and then they monitor if the crack extends. When it grows you ground the plane and change the part.


Ps.: @Ebosted: One night we rode down the park trails, using the 90mm urethane street wheels. Great fun, great drifts… To be honest: The lads had some pints down and thrashed the s…t out of the gear. Cleaning the board the next day was no fun… You can take your board down these trails using any 90mm street wheels. It’s not healthy for you or your equipment. A small stick or stone can make you fall of your board!

Those are genuine caliber IIs. No fractures in the trucks at all. Also i did receive your email and you should be getting a full report on your board tonight. I took it out on the road last night, i forget how powerful that thing is with those dual 6374 SK3s.

About the MBS wheels: I’ve got a set that have lasted about a year of very hard abuse, including smashing into curbs on occasion, running over train tracks regularly, and of course dirt roads and typical terrible sidewalks. they’re finally showing their age with cracks and small chunks.

I have no complaints with those wheels. They’re actually very good all around wheels for street and i guess what you could call sub-street. The only thing they can’t handle is loose dirt. They’ll bog down pretty quick. And if you ride them on the street long enough they’ll wear down to a smoother contact patch improving grip and reducing traction breaks.

I’m used to riding around on Kegels which are basically the complete opposite of wheels like the MBS ones and even ABEC11s. my orange kegels don’t break traction on curves unless the road is slimey or wet.


Thank you for the honest report on the usage of these wheels with your trucks. Staying in front of issues like this is how they should be handled, and i appreciate that from you.

ITs an interesting situation indeed and i suspect that not only the knobbiness is at play, but also the total width of those giant spring trucks you’re using. Funny thing about resonance is it tends to amplify over a longer resonator, which i believe could be contributing to your issue as well. Vibration damping will definitely help and i think you’ve laid out some good advice for mitigation and resolution.

I discovered something similar was happening in my battery packs so i switched to a double layer - half length cell format which makes the whole pack stronger, but that was happening no matter what wheels where being used. Using softer wheels will help also, which is odd to me because the MBS wheels are already soft at 78a i beleive. The flywheel clones i typically use are also in that approximate durometer.

My experience with these wheels is as follows: On 180mm caliber II trucks they’re awesome and don’t seem to be causing any issues. I typically use LUXE risers which are not the softest, but do allow color matching and also easy modification for wire management, so no real damping there. Bushings don’t seem to make much difference with vibration, i’ve tried a few different durometers and barrel-cone combinations. Using silicone sealant as a “liquid gasket” on the boxes has helped a lot.

Vibration is always an issue. 99% of the problems i’ve had to resolve are due to vibrations and the effects it has. I’ve destroyed boxes and had to completely change how they’re made. I’ve had to change how i solder joints. I’ve had to change how i stack my cells. I’ve had to change how i mount my ESCs and even where and how i mount the receiver.

but to lighten the mood a little, here’s why its worth it…

@nates board starting from a dead stop on grass which is ridiculous in my opinion for a non-FOC, non-sensored motor setup on 100mm urethane wheels with a 14/36 ratio

tearing down a dirt road:

taking the side streets on the first AT board i built:

ignoring the streets completely on this hill:

jake doing burn outs in the dirt on my new motors with his monster build