Varnish, lacquer or poly urethane

Does anyone know which clear coat professional skateboards makers use ? Anyone have good results with? I’D like to use Danish oil but I’m not sure grip tape would stick to it.

totally varies. Depends if its just sealing wood, or if they added GF/CF.

I’d suggest epoxy if you can swing it - super durable and even better protection if you add some glass fiber or carbon fiber.

I just so happen to know someone who has some… and could help!

What are you trying to do now - just make it look nice, or add stiffness/protection?

Just protection against the elements


Would eventually look something like this.

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G O R G E O U S ! ! !

I’d put a layer of super lightweight GF and epoxy - any graphics or such you want too - under GF to protect and will go almost totally clear.

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Unless I can find someone who gives up the trade secret . I guess I’ll just take one for the team and try out a few samples and see if grip tape will stick to a oil finish.

This is what I’d use professionally for a front door.

But that is not for rookies as it’s toxic and the rags can spontaneously catch on fire!

I use this stuff. Very easy to apply, just wipe it on with a clean rag. After it drys, polish with 0000 steel wool. I seals the wood and leaves a hard, smooth, shinny finish that grip tape and servo tape will stick to very well. It comes in glossy or satin finish.


Anything oil based will yellow over time. If it’s an exterior product it will have a UV additive to help keep it’s colour/clarity longer without fading or hazing over. Some marine varnishes are good, but may yellow over time. I use the minwax product that Namasaki referred to sometimes for refinishing customers handrails or unfinished doors etc after staining. For small stuff I use the same product in a spray can. It gives a nice smooth finish. That’s work stuff though. My favourite go to clear coat for my hobby stuff is west systems. Stop by a local Sherwin Williams store. They may be able to help you.

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Looks Nice. Yeah I’d go with the Wipe-On Poly, easy to control.

is that paint or an ink stain

nearest thing I could find locally doesn’t look too bad on a test piece


I make my own with 50/50 mix of polyurethane and mineral spirits. Works great and you can adjust the mix to suit your application. Woods can react to finish very differently. Once it dries, it’s tough as nails. It adds a slight amber tint, but that really warms up the look of most woods in a positive way. My favorite is…