Hey guys, back today with yet another question for you helpful folk.
So I made a connection from an anti-spark xt90 to 5.5mm bullet connectors and soldered in my voltmeter. Mainly for practice soldering (I’m horrible I’ve discovered) but the connections are really strong and I think it’ll work so I’d love for an expert pair of eyes to have a look.
My questions:
Am I fine to use the anti-spark connector here as my on/off switch?
why is my voltmeter reading at 0.0V? does it have something to do with that yellow wire and the balance leads on my battery?
Thanks for your response. Unfortunately this didn’t come with instructions. Just a plastic bag from China.
I’ll try connect the yellow to the positive wire and see what that does…
Yup, it gives me a reading but it jumps all over the place so let me try solder it on…
It works but the reading is very jumpy and varies greatly, I have a 9s LiPo setup on storage voltage (3.8V each cell) so I’m hoping to see 34V ish but it dances around the 40.0-45.7V mark…
I’m using one of those, but I decided to use a 2s battery from my quadcopter collection to power it and I’ll also use it to power my lights. There is a YouTube video on how to do the wiring.
receiver and bec is on the other end of the board near the motors voltmeter is in the center. I don’t mind charging batteries. They do not get much use anyway
Thanks Namasaki, I ordered this one and will solder it in for peace of mind. I’m looking to work on my enclosure next and really tempted to just use a Tupperware box (but out of respect for the field I’ll actually be making a vaccuum formed enclosure).
My next issue is with my VESC, I’m being told the one I bought is messed up…
That meter would be fine but it just needs wiring up correctly.
I would recommend doing what @Randyc1 said and take the 5v and common ground from the receiver supply and then wire just the measuring yellow wire to the pos from the battery.
Using an external battery wont work as you need to have a common ground.
Yes - although I’m not familier with that receiver would you would just need to know which is the +5v and GND.
On a benchwheel receiver there is a second set of pins that are redundant - I suspect for a dual set up but they are not connected to anything. All I did was put a solder bridge across the 2 rows of pins then use a servo cable I had laying around. That way your receiver remains removable (if you need it to be - I do as readout will be deck mounted)
Not the best, though I didn’t give it enough of a try since they’re cheap and I ordered a different one. The other one I got from eBay works well and generally does a good job but I still stopped to recharge when it said 25% left (about 10 miles on my 9S lipos).
I currently use @Ackmaniac’s BLDC tool and android app as it gives me very easy to read, real-time readings for everything with the board and would recommend that since the bluetooth HM10 module is just slightly more expensive than the voltmeters (£3 vs £5).
