If you can’t solder, and are uncomfortable with making a battery pack (high energy system - be cautious!), i’d suggest lipo for simplicity.
Advantage is easier, cheaper, and higher density. Dissadvantage is need to inspect and charge w/ hobby charger vs plug in BMS. And less cycles on the batteries possibly.
But to be honest - if you can’t solder decently, and with heavier wire like 12/10awg (need a higher watt iron and different tips usually) - making your own connectors and custom length wire is really helpful building a DIY esk8 - perhaps it would be better to look at a pre-made instead? Several good ones out there - from the inexpensive koowheel and similar, to Enertion Raptor, and LHB custom! Also Marbel, Evolve, and Boosted.
But if I use a battery with bullet connectors then I only have to solder the anti spark key on. And I can handle that, I may have exaggerated how bad I am with soldering. And how is the power connectors on a vesc?
Understood. A good soldering iron (or soldering station) is really helpful, but you can definitely get by with a decent high watt iron.
Almost all DIY esk8 will need some cables made, and connectors swapped. You can obviously just buy the batteries w/ the same connector (instead of swapping), and buy pre-made adapters and wire (series adapters, wire extensions, etc.). The usual problem w/ pre-made is wire length and getting a wad of wires crammed into a case (spaghetti wiring). Poor airflow and ugly, and makes it hard to fit in smaller enclosures.
If you want as plug-n-play as possible - i’d get everything possible from one or two vendors, so it’s easier to connect.
DIYes has some good motors, with adapter cables for sensors (if you want to run them), CANBUS wires if running dual, and even some nice li-ion packs. Not as inexpensive as true DIY from components, but more likely to be connect and go. SPACE cell and similar from Enertion (not sure how long he’s still going to offer all the components to DIY).
For your remote - i had the Quanum and it was Meh. Definitely sucked down batteries… I’d go with the GT2b and later move into a 3d printed smaller case.
Okay, I already have 2 vendors Proto-boards and hobbyking, it was a good idea to use adapters, but I still don’t know how the power connectors look like, do you?
at 53kg you could strap a rubberband under your board and wind it up for power on the flats…
I’m 2x your weight and ride single motor boards frequently - 50mm single on my marbel (and 7 or 8s), and 63xx on my GF’s board i built her. It will move you along perfectly well. I would look at gear calculators and determine your target top speed - i personally like a top speed of 20-25mph (32-40kph). But typically ride between 16-18 cruising (just with some room or speed left if needed).
Here’s my suggested setup - and what i usually suggest:
esk8.it speed calc - play with config and you’ll be set.
I’d suggest the 190kv motor over others so that you have ability to run higher voltage later. If you want more speed i’d swap in an inexpensive 16t or even a bit higher later. Can get cheap on ebay.
But I just keep seeing these people on youtube and so on with 6s2p lipos and a single 270kv motor?
And since the 245kv is cheaper than the 192 kv and would gain me more speed I was thinking that I maybe would be better of with the 245 or something similar. I have also seen a 213kv sk3 6364. so would a 213kv be sweet spot?
34mph/55kmh! HOLY CRAP too fast (IMO - maybe you are already a downhill legend in your area?)
How fast do you want to go? I’d work backwards to get that. It’s all in the kv, gearing, and wheel size. Plug and play - Also with VESC watch out for the ERPM exceeding 60k (will kill DRV chip). Yes you can limit in software, but still easy to exceed going downhill if not careful.
